89 f-250 problems
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89 f-250 problems
hi everyone,
Well here's the story. i bought my 89 f-250 custum 4x4 from my boss. to make a long story short he has had the truck since 91, and it hasn't been running since 2000. well he tells me that it needs a new motor. well i put a battery and a coil in it and she fires up. now here's the problems, first it idle's real ruff. second when you put the truck into gear it stalls and doesn't want to restart. third it needs head gaskets, is this hard to replace? and also would by-passing the air pump cause the truck to idle ruff and stall? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Well here's the story. i bought my 89 f-250 custum 4x4 from my boss. to make a long story short he has had the truck since 91, and it hasn't been running since 2000. well he tells me that it needs a new motor. well i put a battery and a coil in it and she fires up. now here's the problems, first it idle's real ruff. second when you put the truck into gear it stalls and doesn't want to restart. third it needs head gaskets, is this hard to replace? and also would by-passing the air pump cause the truck to idle ruff and stall? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
It sounds like the idle air valve is shot. It sits right on the throttle body, try taking it off and soaking it in carb cleaner. Before, you go throwing parts at it, though, I would pull the codes as described here: http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=13
Head gaskets are a pain. The exhaust manifold studs tend to rust and break off when you back them out. You will also need a couple special tools to get everything off. It's a big job.
Head gaskets are a pain. The exhaust manifold studs tend to rust and break off when you back them out. You will also need a couple special tools to get everything off. It's a big job.
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i need more help
ok well i replaced the idle air controll valve and it helped a lot. but the truck still wants to stall when i put it in gear. i have been able to drive it but not very far because of the stalling problem. when we start it cold it idles fine. but the problems start as it warms up. it will start to foul plugs out the warmer it gets. now when i bought the truck i replaced the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. is there anything you guys can think of that would help me further? thanks in advance.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Tillamook, Ore
Yes, you really need to pull the codes before you spend any more money. You might have a bad intake air temp sensor which is telling the computer the engine is still cold so it keeps pouring the fuel to it. But pull the codes first.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Tillamook, Ore
Got my book out , it says. coolant temp sensor out of range. That's code 21. Code 24 Is Intake air charge temperature sensor out of range. The code 13 means your rpms were out of wack.
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His codes are actually KOEO 21 and 24.
Continuous memory is 33
The "13" appears to be a butchery of the "1" separator pulse combined with the "3" of the first continuous memory code.
Codes 21 and 24 are probably from running the test with a cold engine. If you can get the engine to run long enough, warm it up, try again, and see if the codes go away.
Code 33 is "EGR opening not detected". Could be from messed up vacuum plumbing from the past attempt to remove emission controls. This should not have an impact on idle.
If it is fouling plugs as it warms up, it suggests to me that the oxygen sensor is telling the computer the mixture is too lean, the coolant temp sensor is stuck on always cold, the fuel pressure regulator is leaking fuel into the vacuum line, or a fuel injector is leaking. A fuel pressure test, with particular attention paid to the rate of bleed-down would be helpful here.
Continuous memory is 33
The "13" appears to be a butchery of the "1" separator pulse combined with the "3" of the first continuous memory code.
Codes 21 and 24 are probably from running the test with a cold engine. If you can get the engine to run long enough, warm it up, try again, and see if the codes go away.
Code 33 is "EGR opening not detected". Could be from messed up vacuum plumbing from the past attempt to remove emission controls. This should not have an impact on idle.
If it is fouling plugs as it warms up, it suggests to me that the oxygen sensor is telling the computer the mixture is too lean, the coolant temp sensor is stuck on always cold, the fuel pressure regulator is leaking fuel into the vacuum line, or a fuel injector is leaking. A fuel pressure test, with particular attention paid to the rate of bleed-down would be helpful here.
