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Help w/ rear tank problem...

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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 03:56 PM
  #1  
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Airslot
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From: Greenbackville, VA
Help w/ rear tank problem...

New here, first post. I've got an '88 F-150 SC 4x4, 5.8l, C-6. Pretty well stock w/ 107k on her. Not new to Fords as I've had a 67 'Stang and an 86 BBronco. When I bought this truck the rear tank was pretty well empty but the truck ran great and was in good condition so we consumated the sale. Some time later I filled up both tanks and shortly therafter found out that the rear tank was leaking from on top. After closer inspection, the bed mat was covering a fair size dent over the tank. Turns out the tank will weep fuel if it has more than about three gallons in it, and the leak is from the top. I've not yet got into this project as I have a couple simple questions. The sending unit for the rear tank doesn't work well. Reads either way past full or swings to empty around 1/2 tank.

My thoughts are to pull the bed to have a look at everything, do a little cleaning, maybe replace a pump or two, fix the leak, and pound out the dent. Would it be easier to drop the spare and tank or remove the bed, that is the real question?

Thanks for having a new guy and thanks for any help.

Airslot
 
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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 05:00 PM
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andym
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It all depends on the rust situation with the truck. If you live in the rust belt, it's going to be a bear no matter what way you attack it. If the truck is clean, then popping off the bed is no big deal. I did both pumps on my '90 and it was much easier to pull the bed off, even with a fiberglass topper and a bedliner.

It also depends on how much gas is in the tank.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 05:41 PM
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Airslot
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From: Greenbackville, VA
Rear tank

I've got the tools to do the job either way. There is definately some rust under there, but no where near as bad as my Bronco was. Whats involved in removing the bed? 6 Bed bolts, a couple of fender supports, 2 filler hoses? Anything else. If the bed bolts are rusted up too bad I could just wring em off and replace. I am fortunate enough to have air tools at the house. Located on the Eastern Shore of MD/VA. The tank never has more than 3 gallons in it because of the situation.

Thanks again,

Airslot
 
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Old Dec 7, 2004 | 09:55 PM
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I just Changed mine in a 92 f-150. Getting it out isnt hard at all. Getting it in without help there is another ? Need a few things. Air tools, Floor Jack and SOme boards. To hold it up. Drop the straps with Jack Under tank with Boards (slight Pressure). Disconect fuel line Clamps at Sending unit. And Pull Electrical plug. These can be a bear to get at. Mine had two clamp fittings on the Lines at the sending unit. Popped off with screw driver and then need to have a special fuel line Disconnecter. (its Like a plastic gizzmo that inserts into the line and pops it off like a quick coupler. If you have to replace the fuel neck also. That was the biggest pain NOT much room Between frame and BEd liner. BUT CAN BE DONE with out taking off the bed liner. THen Replace took me about 3 hrs by my self in the cold. ( with All the times I needed to go get warm. Bought a new tank here for 100.00$$$ Hope this helps in your journey! Good Luck!! Maybe you will have a nice WARM Barn Or garage!!!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 09:33 AM
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Pull the bed

If you like to work standing up instead of lying on your back looking and reaching up, undo the bed bolts, take the tail gate off, undo the filler hose clamps and pull the bed off. Only takes 2 guys or one BOB (big ole boy...like me) to either pull it completely and set it aside or just move enough to gain tank access. Since your leak/weep is on the top of the tank, I think this would be much easier.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 09:10 PM
  #6  
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Airslot
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From: Greenbackville, VA
Thanks for the replies

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to look into pulling the bed. Not pressed for time so I'' do it when its convenient. Right now its time to fish for big stripers.

Airslot
 
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 02:46 PM
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I have the rear tank on my 92 F-250 down but the pressure side fitting has a steel spacer between the pick up tube and the factory hose fitting??? it is rusty and my quick disconnect tool has no effect on removing it, anybody seen this fitting before? there were 2 connection saftey hold downs in a row at the 2 connections,

Airslot,

If your truck is high in milage and the tank is original it will be worth your while to just install a new tank as they rust through after 100k, mine was 100 bucks at a Carquest store, this is my 2nd F-250 and both trucks started to leak gas at about 135k,
 
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 02:59 PM
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Airslot,

My f-150 had the same issues. After taking off the metal hold downs. I had to clean out around the quick coupler with small screw driver and wd40 It will come but took me about 15 min. are you sure your using the right size disconect? A pain but it did come off. good luck
 
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 03:08 PM
  #9  
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I am sure about the size, I can get the tool to fit into the rusty fitting but there is no room to get the tool into the fuel hose side at the rear of the fitting, i soaked it with WD and can spin it with channel locks, i will mess with it another day, snow is coming and my Mustang doesn't cut it in the snow,

thanks
 
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