dry cut saws
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dry cut saws
I was looking at getting a chop saw as i am cutting a lot of metal now a days. A friend suggested a dry cut saw rather than an abrasive crop saw for a number of good reason. Who out there is using one? Are they worth the additional cost? Suggestions or comments?
Thanks
Ted
Thanks
Ted
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From: southern Md
For the amount of fabbing I do I cant beat the Chicago Electric chop saw from Harbor freight. Between the chop saw (which is dry) and the Oxy /acet torch I can Handel most jobs accented with a saw zall!!
Glenn
Glenn
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The dry cut chop saws are alot faster and less messy than the abrasive type. I have been using one for the last four months on a job I am doing. This job is primarily stainless steel fab. It took a couple of blades for the guys and I to realize the techniques necessary to make this saw perform to its potential. I would recommend the purchase of one, but make sure you do some research on how to use it properly. Blades can cost up to $150.00, they can be resharpened for about 15-20. Good luck!
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From: "Islander"
Cold saws
Nigel, as i'm an electrician and fab brackets on demand in the field, you can't beat a cold saw. I've been around them the past 6 years, after the initial cost, company paid, they are great vs abrasive saws. Cleaner more accurate cuts, less cleanup. But, it takes one "idiot" to slam the blade and rip out a few carbide teeth. I had a blade that had 15-20 cuts per day (1 1/2" angle and 2 " rigid conduit) for three years. This makes me want to buy one for home use. I have a 14" abrasive saw that's free at home and i would rather pay $350 for a cold saw. Thats my opinion on them. Carl.....o&o>.....
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From: southern Md
Ok am I getting this straight? You can take a chop saw (originally with abrasive blade) and change the blade to cut metal similar to a wood or say a PVC blade? Where would you look for blades and are they rated for different material? This is a new twist to me!!
Glenn
Glenn
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Glenn you can't just change the blade on a traditional abrasive chop saw to a dry cut blade as the chop saw spins at over double the rpms. The dry cut saws have to spin at around 1300 rather than the 4000+ for a chop saw.
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From: southern Md
Ah ok that makes sense, guess if you slowed the saw with a rheostat of some sort might work but that is why they cost what they do I guess. Ill leave a chop saw a chop saw and if I decide to go dry Ill go the right way. Thanks for the explanation!! 
Glenn
Glenn
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Post Fiend
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From: "Islander"
cold saw rpm's vs abrasive saws
snyiper, you can't or shouldn't use a controller to slow down a abrasive saw to the app 12-1,400 rpm range of the colds saws, they run app 1/2 the rpm's. The gearing is too tall for the power you will need to cut. Like taking off in 3rd in a 4 speed. You will smoke the abrasive saw motor. Too fast will tear up the carbide blade, not cheap to replace. If it could be done the manufactures would of produced them years ago. Carl.......o&o>........
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well I bought the Milwaukee model and it is just awesome. We will see how I feel about it a couple big projects down the road but my initial views are all positive. It cuts fast, clean and exactly. The material, as previously stated is a handlable temp right away. Well worth the cost when compared to a chop saw.
Ted
Ted
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
carbide blades
Hey saint, it takes only one idiot to slam the blade and break off a few teeth.
I ran one blade for three years then a plumber cut one 3" heavy angle iron piece, gone was four teeth in one area of the blade. Every cut was started with a bump from a grease stick. Carl....=o&o>..........
I ran one blade for three years then a plumber cut one 3" heavy angle iron piece, gone was four teeth in one area of the blade. Every cut was started with a bump from a grease stick. Carl....=o&o>..........
