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O.K., Just finished up my 3 gauge install(trans, boost, pyro) and all seems to be working great! One question though, I am only getting trans temps of around 115 to 125 with no load just city driving in outside temps of 50 degrees. I do not have an aftermarket cooler installed yet, but I do have the factory cooler on the truck. Do these temps seem right? I am only driving about 20 miles one way and that is as high as my temps go. Is something wrong, could the sending unit hit anything in the hole in the tranny? Or should I just wait until I get a load on it then see what it runs. Just seems low to me.
Nope - you're good!! When it's cool outside and you're driving around empty - the gauge really doesn't move very much. Sounds normal to me - plus you're just used to seeing that useless factory gauge moving after the first 5 minutes of driving!
could you please give me some help with a trans temp gauge? I have a 01 7.3 PSD DRW LWB Crew Cab 4X4. I've just joined FTE and I'm not sure if I'm doing this right?
I have purchased a mechanical capilairy (spelling) gauge for both trans temp and oil temp. as I've burnt up one tranny, I don't want that bill again.
Is the stock trans temp gauge that bad, is it still operable when you install an aftermarket gauge? I want to get the pillar pod gauges, but thought I only needed the pyro & boost since the truck already has the tranny gauge.
I've been reading here for 6 hours about OEM gauges. Everybody says that the OEM gauges are basically an idiot light with a needle.
Try a search and type in trans. temp, there is plenty to read there!
There is a plug on the left (drivers) side of the transmission just above the pan gasket. I'm thinking that it is near the shift lever going into the tranny. This is where we put ours. The tranny tech at the dealership said that this is the best place to install the sensor because of the oil flow throught this area.
owenlo,
Those temps are fine. We were pulling 20,000# loads slowly in hi 2 and the temps were around 180. My son pulled in D and had the needle at 220. When we were returning without the load, the temp was near yours. More cooling never hurts though.
Bug, there's a 1/8" pipe plug with an 11mm hex head about 3" in front of the shift linkage shaft and just above the pan mounting flange. Make sure your sender (or bulb) only sticks about 1/2" past the end of the threads. I'm not sure how much deeper the hole is. I do know that the AutoMeter electric sender fits with no problem.
farmdad, what did you use, electric or mechanical with capillary tube? From what dabigtow said, I take it he used electrical. Is it the mechanical that everybody was talking about shimming or using a washer so not to bottom out the sensor?
We used Autometer electrical. I was concerned about how deep the probe would go but after removing the plug, I wondered if the probe would be in far enough to be in the oil flow. The gauge is quite responsive so the probe must be in the flow enough.
I haven't installed a gauge yet, but if you are wondering on how deep the hole is, try using a straw, stick it in the hole where it stops is how deep the hole is, if it doesn't stop, no need to worry about it. I'm am for electrical gauges, from the sounds of the mechanical gauge, correct me if I'm wrong, you have to run a tube for the oil to travel in to the gauge. If the tube breaks, you could run into some major problems. At least if the electrical breaks or fails, you won't be dumping fluid. Just my take on it.
When you pull the plug, trans.oil comes out. As for mech. guages, they are a sealed gas unit, so no oil gets into them. However, if you kink the tube, you have to throw out the whole thing & start over.
Thanks guys! I found the test port plug. Dieselmanor.com, click install sheets, very helpful once I knew what I was looking for.
So far as the screwdriver/straw deal is to see how deep the hole is, I have read that it's not a matter of fact how deep the hole is, it is that there is an arm...or something in side the hole off to one side, I have seen it with a mirror, and correct me if I'm wrong, but if the bulb or sender does not go in straight ie cocked, not misthreaded, this is how the sensors are breaking, although I can see how over tightening can do the same.