Guys,
As of last night, my heater was blowing nothing but colddd (-25c outside), Then after about 20 mins, it began to blow some heat.

Then, today same thing, but this time it never put out any heat. I checked the hoses from the rad to water pump, they are warm, but soft as if theres flow.
Same with the hoses to heater core and return, where they go into intake and water pump they are warm and soft, as you go closer to the firewall(heatercore) they are cold and stiff, but i am still able to press a bit, seems like no flow action at all.
I dont get it, the mixture in the rad is not froze up at all, i have my blcok heater plugged in.
Is my water pump toast??
Thanks guys.

 

I went out and did some checkin around.
I got the lower hose that connects to heater core off, the hose nor core inlet is plugged. I fired her up again, about 10 mins the heat starts working, so i give the hoses a squeeze, they are hot but i can squeeze them both right closed and can feel some flow, very little flow that it, both hoses.

So im thinkin its water pump, either too weak or on its way out?

Any ideas?
cheers

 

Sounds more like your t-stat is stuck open. I'd check that first. Carl

 

Hmm, Could be i guess.
I should probably replace it anyways, seems to be a 160f one in their now (as thats where it seems to stay. Ill throw a 190 in when the weather lets me, I havent got a shop to work in unfortunatly, and its cold.
thanks

 

My friend, pitch that 160 stat and get a 190 or 195 stat immediately, if they make one for your particular engine! Even at perfect conditions, at your cold thermostat is not letting the engine run at peak performance, burning engine deposits and helping the oil eliminate moisture, which is present in every engine, until properly burned off. Also, in a cold climate, try insulating your heater hoses, and radiator hoses. This makes a huge difference, from having a warm heater, to a toasty HOT heater. Two major benefits to this, with insulating the hoses. In the winter, it lets the coolant stay warmer, much longer, when the engine is shut off. Fuel mileage is improved as well. In the summer, the insulated hoses help reduce under hood engine heat. What does high heat conditions contribute too? They kill batteries (not the cold, as with the common misconception. When you have a dead battery in the winter, the main cause was the boiling and bubbles present in the acid, from the heat from the engine) Heat also ruins ignition wires, vacumm hoses and cables, among others. You will never eliminate underhood heat, but you can reduce heat, while making any engine work more effiencently.

 

I agree with replacing the thermostat with a 190/195 degree one. If after replacement you still not getting enough heat, think about backflushing the heater core; it may be plugged. You can also take a piece of hose, attach it to the heater core (other hose off) and blow in the hose. There should be little resistance thus indicating good flow in the core. Since you will have removed some coolant to replace the thermostat, you may even want to check this at the same time for piece of mind. I'll assume that you have proper operation of the blend door and that it's closing fully when the temp control is in the fully hot position, thus allowing all incomming air to pass over the heater core. I don't think your water pump is failing since you're not complaining about overheating.

There's another little trick I've used to get more heat sooner when you live in an area with more frigid winter temperatures or a cold snap has rolled in. Cover the lower 33-50% (experiment a little) of your radiator with a piece of cardboard. If it's an old truck with an overkill radiator try more cardboard; newer truck with smaller one begin with less. This is fine for around town and medium speed country roads when you have no real load in the truck. Remember to watch the temp gauge and/or remove the cardboard when hitting the freeway. And of course, remember to pull it out of there early in the spring. Just use common sense when doing this and you'll be just fine and have more heat sooner.

 

Thanks guys for your help.

I went out this morning, fired it up.(-30c) Let it warm up while i fixed my timing and tried fixing my driver side door to seal at the top. Anyways, the heat started working right away. I went to Napa and picked up a new T stat (195) Hopefully i can put in tomorrow, if I dont have work.

I will also insulate the hoses as well, thats a good idea.
I did the other day put a peice of cardboard in front of the rad, it was about half the size of the rad itself. I went back in side for a few mins came out and she was at 250 degrees, lost a bit of coolant. Maybe Ill try a smaller peice

I find it odd how the heat works sometimes and not others, and then just kicks in.

Thanks again fella's.

 

A sticking thermostat can do this. I'm not sure what you're driving, but if there is a vacuum operated valve on the heater hose I suppose it may be possible that there's an issue with that (sticking or vacuum issues). Just something to keep in mind. Also, if you're driving something with automatic climate control (ie, set the temp at 72 and it does the rest), they usually don't blow heat until a predetermined temperature is reached.

 

I see. Makes sense then.
Its my 78' half, no air cond. Plane jane setup, no valve in the hose. No auto climate either.
Anyway, gonna have a shower here and go put that t-stat in. (man, its chilly)
thanks again.

 

I put the new t-stat in, There was a 180f in there to start with.
It stays around the same temp. though, very little change. Stays at about 160ish, then when going down the highway is drops to about 150ish.
Im gonna throw a peice of cardboard in front of the rad, and insulate the hoses aswell. It is 30 below aswell, may be affecting it somewhat eh.