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Tried to set the timing of my 351M yesterday. After I loosened the distrubuter hold bolt, the dist. would not move. Looks like the thing is rusted to the block. How hard should it be to move. I did'nt want to put to much pressure on it for fear of breaking it off or spinning it so far the truck would not start.
Also what causes the engine to sputter / knock / raddle and try to keep running momentarly after the key is turned off.
run-on ((aka dieseling) after killing the ignition can be caused by several things:
running too lean can cause cumbustion chamber heat to be high enuf for detonation without spark. also, there's a dashpot (vacuum driven valve) which should cut fuel to the cylinders at shutdown. if it's missing or not getting appropriate vacuum, you'll get run-on. hope that helps...
Since the distributor shaft and the engine block are made of two different metals, you end up with corrosion between the two that can effectively "weld" the dizzy shaft in its hole. Many applications of PB Blaster over a few days and allowed to soak may be enough to break the bond and allow turning of the shaft. If not, more persuasive methods may be needed. I have used hammer/chisel, one of those new strap wrench tools, heat, pry bars (you get the idea). Once you finally do get it broke loose, if it survives the torture, pull the dizzy out and smear some grease or anti stick compound around the dizzy shaft to help prevent the same problem from repeating.
To add to what packlet said above; idle set too high and mal-adjusted choke will contribute to dieseling.
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