I'm thinking about purchasing a used PSD. Probably 95-2001. Can you check a diesel like a gas engine? You know like a compression check or similiar tests to check a motors health? Any suggestions on tests? Also I noticed some dealers offer extended warranties like 4 years unlimited mileage. Whats the catch? Do you have to take it back to the dealer or can you take it anywhere? Thanks for answering the newby questions I appreciate it.

Take care
Bret

 

You can have the compression checked, but it is going to be fairly labor intensive (read: expensive) on these engines. A simple test for general compression is blowby pressure, the air coming out of the crankcase vent, which is directly related to compression, but might not tell you the whole story (like if you have one cylinder with bad compression). Any good diesel mechanic should be able to give you a pretty good idea of the overall health of the truck for maybe 100-150 dollars.

Make sure to check the turbo for any evidence of dust getting by the filter, these truck have had some bad air filter designs over the years you are talking about. That would be the #1 thing that would make me pass on a used powerstroke. Brakes, waterpumps, front wheel bearings, and injector o-rings are also common problems with these trucks.

One of the simplest things you can do to get a rough idea of the overall health of the engine is cold weather starting. If the engine will fire right up at say 0-20F ambient outdoor temperatures when the engine is cold (not plugged in, hasn't run for 10-12 hours) chances are it is pretty healthy.

 

I agree with what has been said, but I might add a little side note. Mu '00 has a little trouble after starting if not plugged in at temps around 30 or so. She'll fire right up. but lopes for a couple seconds after starting. However, I can cycle the glow plugs about twice and she fires right up wih no problems. Not 100% sure but I think this indicates that my glow plug system is working properly. If it's colder, I'll let the glow plug cycles go for a couple minutes, meaning even after the dash indicator light goes off. Just wanted to make sure this point was clear for the potential new owner.........

 

Absolutely. Just because it won't start easily doesn't necessairly mean something is seriously wrong with it. But if it will start right up, chances are that it's in pretty good shape. If it won't start easily at 20-30F, something is wrong, and I'd certainly find out beyond exactly what it is before I bought it.

If your buying through a dealer, the truck shoould start cold, because at NADA retail you are paying for it to be that way. If you are buying private treaty or through the auctions, this is a quick way to get an idea of overall engine health, and decide if it is worth the expense of further inspections.

 

Barham98 check this site out, there is a lot of PSD info in there.
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html
In addition to checking for dusting, you will want to check the coolant SCA level, you can also do an oil sample analysis. If the truck still has the stock air box on it there is a good chance it has been dusted, the stock air box design is that bad. 94-97 had no unusual brake, water pump, or wheel bearing problems problems, 99+ did. 94-95 had some weak auto trannies, 96-97 were better, 99+ had a different auto, it was pretty good. Check for evidence of the CPU being chipped on any year cuz it will void any warranty, as will evidence of the engine being dusted.
Red Taurus94 your problem sounds like one or two bad glow plugs to me. I had the exact same symptoms, and that was my issue.

 

Related to your question of the extended warranty, with the exception of a FORD warranty, they are almost invariably not worth the money. They will always come up with some reason to deny the claim, then make you sue them for it.

 

As with anything, everything has two sides. I purchased a '97 PSD earlier this year. With it, came the opportunity for an extended warranty. After giving it some serious thought, I decided to go with the 4 year, unlimited mileage option. That set me back $1500.00. A month after I bought the truck, my fuel pump went out and started leaking very bad. I took it to a local diesel shop, and they gave me an estimate of $580.00 to replace it and all the fittings and hoses. The insurance paid it, minus my deductable of $100.00. 2 Months later, while towing a trailer home from Canada, my tranny went out in the middle of Montana. The insurance paid to have it towed to a Ford garage and after tearing it apart, they determined that the torque converter had cracked. The bill was $1200.00 to replace with a Ford part. The insurance covered $900.00 because they claimed they could get an aftermarket torque converter cheaper, but it would be a few days to have it shipped in and I couldn't wait that long to have it fixed. I agreed to pay the difference.

So...the way I see it, the insurance has just about paid for itself in the first few months and I still have 3 and a half years left to go! One thing I would check is the company offering the warranty. Some, like mine, do allow you to take it anywhere that will accept it. Mine will also directly pay the dealer via credit card or check, or just reimburse me. Make sure they are flexible in their payment policies and also call around and see if your local garages will accept their warranty.

 

Thanks for the replys. You guys are great!!

Take care
Bret

 

Hey Clux. Is there any easy way to check if the turbo has been dusted, for insance I m looking at a truch in some guys drive way and not neaer a shop?

by the way nice bucking horse!
thanks J

 

Take the intake tube off at the turbo. Check the impeller fins for pitting and bent or worn edges. You can also give the inside of the intake tube the "white glove" treatment to check for evidence of dirt.

 

Great thanks.. J