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This is incorrect. There is nothing wrong with running batteries in parallel without an isolator as long as the two batteries are of the same make and age like what 569104 was talking about. It will not make the batteries fail quicker. As 569104 noted, the downside is having to replace both batteries at the same time when they are used up.
The reason for an isolator is so that you can run different types of batteries or different age batteries and not cause one battery to drain the other. Some people like to have insurance that if they run one battery down they have a backup battery to use. Others like 569104 like having the greater amps. This can be found on both Optima's and Odyssey's websites along with other thread discussions both here and on Pirate.
Ditto. This is the same principle used in backup power supplies (I worked in this field for about 5 years). The life span is the same but the amps double. This is a great option when you have a high compression engine that's hard to crank. Infact before I had the Optimas I ran my old batteries like this and it made a huge difference in cold weather starting.
I use an isolator so that I can completely drain my auxilary battery but still start my truck. I'm messing with a few different combos right now trying to get a little more versatile system but as it is now I can "disconnect" the link between the two batteries and never have to worry about the truck not starting. All my accessories feed off the auxilary battery with only my starter and ignition on the main.
Personally I have no concerns about mounting a battery next to a fuel line. So long as fuel stays IN the line it's not an issue. Even if it were to burst there will be no danger as long as you don't have an arc. Good tight connections will prevent this. You could poor gas on a battery if you wanted . . . no biggie.
Learn something everyday.
I was under the impression that the internal ohm resistance of batteries, even identicle models vary and that is what causes failure.
In your experencehow long have batteries in this configuration lasted?
I am just curious.
The regularly cycled backups are changed every 5 years (the phone companies change them on this schedule regardless of battery condition) and all test at over 90% of their rating when we pull them. On our work truck we'd run the duals 3 seasons before we sold it. Our forklift has been running 4 years on duals in parallel though we'll replace them next summer.
Failure in regular batteries is caused by corrosion and build up between the plates. Especially in the case of a battery that takes a physical beating this junk breaks loose and settles on the bottom, shorting cells out and reducing capacity. This is part of the reason Optimas last so much longer . . . the coil design prevents this shorting.
In my experience it does. I don't know what kind of batteries you run in your rigs but I don't bother with the cheap ones anymore. They always left me stranded so I started going to DieHard Gold series batteries. They run about $90 a piece. I paid $110 a piece for my Optimas. If you really get screwed you'll pay $150 (hint: don't get screwed . . . check around locally). They last longer than the DieHards and other high end regular batteries and will handle any abuse you can dish out. They can be mounted on their sides or upside down which makes them optimal for people who have limited space. I've also found they don't seem to be near as problematic with extreme temperatures.
Damn . . . I sould like I work for them or something. But honestly it's the best battery I've ever used. I'll never buy anything else for my rigs.
ok ok ok....since i am a new owner of a battery drainer (ie winch) i am in the same boat and reading up on how to wire it up! right now I have one battery puling both winching and starting duties but i assume i will want to bump up to something better
SO....
how EXACTLY would you wire an isolator and a battery switch with 2 battery's and still be able to charge both battery's 100% of the time?
thanx for the link man, but i've read it over a few times i think i got it but i am not sure. i am gonna e-mail Guest Co tom and see if i can get a good answer
If you get 2 identical batteries the easiest way to go is run a heavy guage wire positive to positive and stick the isolator in between. A basic alternator has 2 wires on it that control the solenoid, much like your stock stater solenoid but designed for continuous use. If you want super simple you can wire this to your ignition so when the key is on the isolator engages and links both batteries, meaning both will charge. You can also run the isolator off a simple switch so you just flip it to connect both batteries for charging. The other option is to get an isolator like the type Randy described earlier. These kind keep both batteries isolated at all times but will deliver a charge to both. It's simple as could be to wire them up.