I noticed today that the center line on the back of the pump was leaking a bit? Is this the supply line or overflow line?
Would this cause some leak down, and hard starting some times?

I am still not satisfied with my MPG, down now to between 9.5 and 10 mpg.
I am also not satisfied with my power. only can get 115 kms(71 mph).

So I decided to check my injectors first, cracked each of the lines one at a time with the engine running and noticed a difference in the idle with each one. So I assume that all are running somewhat OK.

I am running 4.10 gears in rear end, it is also an old ambulance with only 140 K miles. Auto trans with OD. No tach unfourtnatly.

But that is mostly around town. I am also noticing more blue smoke out the exhaust. Mostly when getting high on the rpm before switching gears on tranny.
I have also noticed alot harder shift from gear to gear and some times I have to let off of the peddle to let it shift into the next gear at around 40 -60 mph??

One guy I took it to suggested it was a RPM sensor that was defective and replaced it with a good used one???

Any suggestions?

I really love this forum!! necks gets stiff from reading all the posts!

Thanks
Canuck Safeman

 

That's the supply line alright. Yes, it could cause hard starting. The late shifting could be the throttle position sensor on the side of the injection pump. See if the screws have loosened up and let it move one way or the other.

 

What side are the scrwes on? What kind of screws are they? Phillips, Slot, Allen?

Any land marks to find them?
Thanks
Canuck Safeman

 

Canuck,
There are two pair of different sized screws. If they are stock, they are all torx heads. I just replaced the FIPL not too long ago but can't remember what the exact size bit was for each pair. It's raining out right now, and the middle of the night, otherwise I'd check. One pair of screws holds the FIPL to the bracket, and the other pair of screws holds the bracket/FIPL assembly to the IP.

I've sent you an email regarding some info I have on testing the sensors, and on adjusting the FIPL.

dieselzen

 

FIPL torx

Mine are #15 others are #27

Found this interesting.........

Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W ( grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire, I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL. Engine off key on........
With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting . Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly.


This too..........

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C

 

Thanks
PLC I will try that.
One question what does FIPL stand for?
Any Ides how much they are?

Thanks
Canuck Safeman

 

FIPL=fuel injection pump lever.