Fender welting before or after fender install?
#1
Fender welting before or after fender install?
I have trimmed the welting to fit the curve of the fender and cut away enough welting for the rear fender studs on the side of the box. It looks to me like it would be easier to install the fender loosely and then insert the welting before tightening the fender bolts. Any recommendations?
#3
I haven't painted my '51 yet, but the last vehicle I painted was a '40 olds, and it worked better to install the welt after the fenders were loosely bolted up. The olds was a show car, very picky owner, so the hardest thing for me was making the rubber welting straight, as it would bulge out near the bolts after they were tightened up, because the welt was compressed more in those spots. I actually ended up compensating for this by pushing the welting in further where the bolts were before I tightened the bolts. This took a long time to make it perfect. I'm not sure if we'll have to do this on our pickups. Let me know how it goes, I'm curious.
Gary
Gary
#4
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#6
I have had both front and rear fenders off and back on my Effie a few times. I've tried placing the welting three different ways.
1. installing it with the fender.
2. Loose install the fender then stuff the welting in the crack, and
3. (My favorite way) Place the welting on the fender back using small dabs of RTV silicone. I let that cure for about 8 hours (overnight) and then bolt the fender up. The welting doesn't squirt around and even stays on the fender if I remove it later. When you want to take it off, it peels right away.
BTW, I've always seen black welting on the trucks that use it, except for the one I saw with a crappy paint job where they just painted the welting the truck color. (yuck!)
1. installing it with the fender.
2. Loose install the fender then stuff the welting in the crack, and
3. (My favorite way) Place the welting on the fender back using small dabs of RTV silicone. I let that cure for about 8 hours (overnight) and then bolt the fender up. The welting doesn't squirt around and even stays on the fender if I remove it later. When you want to take it off, it peels right away.
BTW, I've always seen black welting on the trucks that use it, except for the one I saw with a crappy paint job where they just painted the welting the truck color. (yuck!)
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
BTW, I've always seen black welting on the trucks that use it, except for the one I saw with a crappy paint job where they just painted the welting the truck color. (yuck!)
#9
Ranger Pat, did you convert your stock tail lights to LED or are you using aftermarket lights?? If you altered your stock lights, maybe you could post a picture??
By the way, do all stock tail lights 53-56 have two lights in each housing (an upper and lower) or just one light in each housing?? Mine have two in each but not sure if someone added the second light.
Kevin
By the way, do all stock tail lights 53-56 have two lights in each housing (an upper and lower) or just one light in each housing?? Mine have two in each but not sure if someone added the second light.
Kevin
#10
Kecky, I installed the small round LED lights in the roll of the pickup box rail. I have the old teardrop style '39 Ford tail lights mounted horizontally below the tail gate in the stainless steel rear sill cover. If the sun light comes in through my shop windows on Sunday, I will post some pictures in my gallery under "Parts". The welting installation went without a hitch. I did learn it would be better to cut the welting by laying in on the fender flange than using the studs on the box side. The radius is slightly different so the ended up a skosh shorter than optimum by using the stud pattern.
#12
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