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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 08:26 PM
  #1  
sideout2's Avatar
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From: Austin USA
stock air cleaner

My 78 1/2 ton did not come with the stock air cleaner. Was there a hose going to the radiator support(cold air intake) or was the cleaner just have the air intake in the engine compartment.
Thanks all.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 08:48 PM
  #2  
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hdgapeach
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From: Franklin, GA
The '78 I have has one and it all seems to look stock under the hood. '78 F150 351M 4X4
 
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 09:27 PM
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From: Bedford Hts, Oh
I have a picture of an air cleaner set-up in my gallery.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 12:50 AM
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That gallery picture is the correct cold air inlet setup. It does not look to be functional tho. There is another silver hose that goes to the heated air stove around the exhaust manifold. There is also a vacuum hose to a thermostatic switch inside the air cleaner.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 06:16 AM
  #5  
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From: Colorado
The "heated air stove" helps in extreme cold to minimize carb icing ( i believe). Im wishing i had the stock setup for my truck right now. Dont think weve had a day here the past week thats started with a temp above 0 .

--John
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 07:47 AM
  #6  
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John you are correct. Without that hot air source the water vapor in the air can freeze when it hits the cold carb venturi. The vaporizing fuel cools the carb and ice will form inside. The ice disturbs the fuel mix and can cause a bunch of strange problems including poor fuel mileage and performance that are difficult to diagnose. By the time you get out of your truck and pull the air cleaner the ice will have melted and the water vaporized from engine heat leaving no sign of the problem.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 08:02 PM
  #7  
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From: Bedford Hts, Oh
I took the picture before I put the warm air hose on. I blame myself. Would you like a new picture?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 08:18 PM
  #8  
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air cleaner

my 79 had a thin aluminum air cleaner it was full of cracks almost like somone took tinsnips to it about evry inch er so... THE ONES I FOUND IN A FEW BONEYARDS WERE TO THE SAME EFFECT I PUT AN EDELBROCK OPEN AIR BREATHER ASSEMBELY ON BUT IM WORRIED ABOUT WATER.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 08:27 PM
  #9  
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From: Bedford Hts, Oh
Call Dan at his salvage yard in Colorado Springs, Colorado. He might have what your looking for.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 11:22 PM
  #10  
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There are many applications that used a similar steel air box. Just look around in the salvage yards.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 02:04 PM
  #11  
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From: Valley/Mountain Region
oops

is it adviseable to put in an open air breather assembly for someone who doesn't usually get over 35kmh (lets say 60mph)? I ask because I'ld like to better my own air in take but don't know anything about the rate of air that needs to come in through the grill to feed the air filter. I thought that the long plastic duct was for creating turbulence - hince more air flow before reaching filter. I took out my duct cause it was falling out, but haven't put anything else on. Thought about putting on an open air intake with a scoop on the hood. What works?
John
79 F350 inline6 300 2x4 crewcab dually
 

Last edited by Gordilocks; Jan 26, 2005 at 02:10 PM. Reason: misstated velocity
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:57 AM
  #12  
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From: Yuba City, Ca
the open air breather would be just fine if you had a scoop on the hood. But if your in feezing temps i wouldn't reccomend it because of carb icing. If you live in a warmer climate i'd say go for it. Ivan just did a scoop on his truck not too long a go and has some pics in his gallery.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:39 AM
  #13  
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The carb freezing problem can occur even in 80+°F weather. It depends on humidity and temperature.

Aviation references on carb icing have the best information. With an aircraft it is a very serious problem. In a ground vehicle the engine just runs rough or stalls but it does not crash.

You can do your own Google search. Much of the information is anecdotal. Here is a reference with some facts:
http://www.caa.co.uk/docs/33/SRG_GAD_SSL14.PDF
Another from the FAA:
http://www.faa.gov/fsdo/btr/CARBICE2.htm

Altitude and air density also play a part.

Carbs and throttle body (TBI) systems are both subject to carb icing. Regular EFI systems are not.

Some references list that you need a 90°F air inlet temperature to avoid icing. I am going to try to get away with 75°F inlet temperature. To do that I had to modify the temp sensors.

While looking for carb icing I found this nice article on Gasoline:
http://blizzard.rwic.und.edu/~nordli.../gasoline.html
 
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 05:48 PM
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I had the heated air stove on my setup for my 2BBL carb before I put my new motor in last week. Now I run a 4BBL with headers and the cover for the air stove over the manifolds doesn't fit anymore. I don't live in a cold area and I am wondering if I can replace this stove somehow or if I should not bother?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 08:35 PM
  #15  
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From: WA
Originally Posted by kc5hwb
I had the heated air stove on my setup for my 2BBL carb before I put my new motor in last week. Now I run a 4BBL with headers and the cover for the air stove over the manifolds doesn't fit anymore. I don't live in a cold area and I am wondering if I can replace this stove somehow or if I should not bother?
My hedman headers came with a little gizmo that hose clamps onto a header tube, then you attach the flex tube to it.
 
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