Aftermarket tach installation?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Aftermarket tach installation?
Ok, there was this 85 bronco my friend had laying round, that he'd stolen parts off of, and before he got rid of it, he pulled an aftermarket tach that goes onto the steering colum.. It has 4 wires, a black, red, green, and a white I believe. I'm not sure if that's of any importance.. But, I've got an 81 F100 with a 351 that I wanna put the tach into, but I'm not sure how the thing wires up.
I didn't get much of a chance to see how it was hooked up.. if I remember right it looked like one wire went to the ignition coil plug, 1 was a ground, and the other two went to the fuse box (I believe) but I'm not sure if that's right.. or which place on the fuse box it would need to go on.. anyways, if anyone has a wiring diagram or anything that can help me out with it I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks.
I didn't get much of a chance to see how it was hooked up.. if I remember right it looked like one wire went to the ignition coil plug, 1 was a ground, and the other two went to the fuse box (I believe) but I'm not sure if that's right.. or which place on the fuse box it would need to go on.. anyways, if anyone has a wiring diagram or anything that can help me out with it I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
The red goes to the keyed power switch (install an inline fuse as well), white should be hooked up to the dash light dimmer circuit (this way it will dim with the rest of the dash lights) Black is simply a chassis ground, and green runs to the negative side of your coil.
To avoid any potential ignition problems, disconnect the battery while installing, and take the time to solder and shrink-tube the connections. You'll create head-aches and mysterious ignition shorts if you use splice taps or crimp style connectors.
To avoid any potential ignition problems, disconnect the battery while installing, and take the time to solder and shrink-tube the connections. You'll create head-aches and mysterious ignition shorts if you use splice taps or crimp style connectors.
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Ok, thank you..
I was just talking to another friend about it, and he wasn't sure of how it hooked up, but he was thinking that because it was originally hooked up to a 300-6 it won't right with my 351..
But from reading how it hooks up, it's just reading how fast the ignition coil is going off and getting the RPM value from that.. so I wouldn't think that there should be any problem hooking it up, or is there something that I'm overlooking?
I was just talking to another friend about it, and he wasn't sure of how it hooked up, but he was thinking that because it was originally hooked up to a 300-6 it won't right with my 351..
But from reading how it hooks up, it's just reading how fast the ignition coil is going off and getting the RPM value from that.. so I wouldn't think that there should be any problem hooking it up, or is there something that I'm overlooking?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Meilichios
Ok, thank you..
I was just talking to another friend about it, and he wasn't sure of how it hooked up, but he was thinking that because it was originally hooked up to a 300-6 it won't right with my 351..
But from reading how it hooks up, it's just reading how fast the ignition coil is going off and getting the RPM value from that.. so I wouldn't think that there should be any problem hooking it up, or is there something that I'm overlooking?
I was just talking to another friend about it, and he wasn't sure of how it hooked up, but he was thinking that because it was originally hooked up to a 300-6 it won't right with my 351..
But from reading how it hooks up, it's just reading how fast the ignition coil is going off and getting the RPM value from that.. so I wouldn't think that there should be any problem hooking it up, or is there something that I'm overlooking?
Other than that you should be good to go.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Long island NY
i have some pics of my tach in my gallery, it was so easy to install. There was a hole in the firewall behind the clutch petal that i put the wires to, and i tapped the tach power(red) into the radio fuse, white to the dash lights, green to the coil, wich allready had a green wire coming off it,and black to ground.
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Well, I got the tach in.. hopefully it works, but I won't be able to really test it just yet, not till I get my new headers in at least.. I had the front driveshaft come off of the differential, and smash the driverside header to bits.. :-/
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Meilichios
Well, I got the tach in.. hopefully it works, but I won't be able to really test it just yet, not till I get my new headers in at least.. I had the front driveshaft come off of the differential, and smash the driverside header to bits.. :-/
You're lucky...I had the same thing happen on an older rig, and if I hadn't(by luck) put my foot on the brake at that very moment, it would have taken my right foot right off, as my shaft came right through the floor. I was much younger then, and now, knowing a lot more than I did then, although far from an expert of any kind, pay a ton more attention to vibrations, and get on the, right away, rather than waiting for such a disaster to happen. If I'd still had my foot on the gas at the time, I'd be missing my right foot....without a shadow of a doubt.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Wow, mine didn't go through the cab or anything like that.. but it smashed the fuel line, and the breakline for the front right wheel and put a hole in the hose for the hydrolic clutch and destroyed the driverside header.. although, in the end, that's still a lot better than losing my right foot.. I can still drive it again once I fix it. 
