Okay I have the pics up for all to see. I need help. I have many questions.

the problem is that the truck will not run without the choke being pulled half way out. Any Ideas on what to change below for better running engine? Thanks.

1. What is the bolt on the side of the carb pluggin up?
2. what is the valve (looks like EGR) in front of the carb?
3. are the "pipes" that come from the bottom of the manifold? they are pinched closed - important?
4. what is the hole that has been welded shut in front and under the carb? (look hard)
5. should I get a new fuel pump since there has been no inline filter for A LONG time? Plus the hose is dry rotted.

I know that is alot to ask but I'm not the most mech. inclined but wanted to use this truck to learn on. any help is great. thanks in advance.

 

1. The bolt is just plugging the hole. That looks like wherethey installed a vacuum tree....3 or 4 ports for vacuum lines to connect to various things....pollution related.
2. That is an EGR valve.


5. They came with an inline filter where the fuel line connects to the carb. I'm not sure if you have it, but I don't think so. Hose is real inexpensive.

 

have since bought fuel line and filter. If that's EGR valve - what's the one that looks similar that is located directly behind the distr.? (not picturted) ? hummm..? thanks

 

copied from earlier thread:
Looks to me like thats a spacer block off a late 70's truck - not sure of the carb. I would bet the exhaust manifold was cracked and they replaced the entire intake/carb with it too. That's a bunch of later model emmisions stuff (unless CA already had it, but I doubt it in 66). Maybe they replaced the whole motor.

I have the same spacer block on mine, took it and the carb off a '79 I think. Anyway, I'm going to the junkyard soon to see if I can find one with only one port for my brake booster.

check this post - might help too:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=311910

 

the one on the back side of the distributor? that's you're vacuum advance - need that one. Should be hooked to the throttle body (bottom of carb)

Are you in a Smog law state?

 

no way man. I mean - a vehicle of this age in GA is exempt. Unlike my 86 that I pay my buddy $150 to pass for me!!

 

okay. in that case - vacuum advance IS hooked up and the EGR is not.So I guess I have a bunch of later model crap on the engine - that explains whey it looks different than other 66s. Thanks for the help. What to do about the EGR? I need it hooked up, no? Later

 

As for #5. The top 1/2 ofthe Fuel Pump that has the threads on it is a can / cap for the fuel filter. Yep they actually built them like that. My 65 Mustang had the same pump on it's 289. Find a strap wrench and unscrew it. The old filter will drop out along with all the crud in there. Clean up the can install a new filter and screw back down. Dont' forget the "o" ring that seals the can.

 

cool good to know. I'll get on that this weekend.

 

No smog law on it, then all the emmision stuff is gone anyhow and your probably screwing up the vacuum/air flow with a bunch of plugged holes. I've got the same problem. Should be able to find a spacer block (the part with the big space ship on it!) at a junkyard off a F250 (over 8000gvw) or bigger before 83 (maybe newer) or on the pre-smog f100/f150. Would look alot cleaner, and might run a bit better too.

 

8000gvw - please explain.

So you think a new spacer block would help? easy to instal? just unbolt it from truck, take off carb and re-asemble with new spacer?

 

gvw - Gross Vehicle Weight

Apparently heavy trucks were exempt from smog laws so they wouldn't have the emmision stuff on 'em

I jacked one of you're pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=62011&width=0
should be able to find a spacer without the SPACE SHIP on it.

Come to think of it, you might not even need to use a spacer since you don't have power brakes. You'd have to take off the 2 nuts/bolts holding the carb/spacer to the intake to see. You may be able to bolt your carb directly to the intake (not sure if this would cause clearance or fuel flow probs though)

My intake has a hole off to one side that my carb wouldn't cover if I simply removed the spacer - I also need a port for my Power brakes. So I have to have some form of block there.

 

I wish I knew how to draw on the pics like that - you da man. Thanks for the info. So "spacer" = "space ship" looking thing. I bought a carb rebuild kit today and I was gonna get into that tomorrow I'll see if the damned thing will just bolt up w/o the spacer - if so, why did someone put it there to begin with?Anything i should know about replacing the fuel pump? I also bought a new oneof those for good measure. Looks like they were running this thing w/o a fuel filter - enles that fitting looks like a fuel filter to you (fitting going into the carb on front) it appears to be welded in there or something.
Later

 

ya its not to hard to take the EGR off but it is a little more involved than just unbolting the carb and pulling it off. First of all unbolt the carb and remove it(either take it completely off if you want to rebuild it or just swing it out of the way making sure you keep it upright to prevent spilling fuel that remains in the float boal) Then you can pull the EGR off, you want to trace any vaccum lines still connected to it and if they are specificly for the EGR you can plug the port that go to it otherwise reroute them to a different vaccum port. After you get the EGR off you will notice there is a 3/4" or so hole in the manifold that will leak if you don't plug it (I traced the the gasket for the EGR on a piece of thin 22 guage sheet metal, not cutting out the small hole. The next thing is that the carb studs are too long, the best thing would be take them out and replace them with new shorter studs or if in a pinch and you have a couple extra bad EGRs around you can unbolt the EGR diaphram from the main body and will notice that the studs are two different sizes, the larger of the two is the same thread as the carb studs and can be used although they are a couple of treads too short and shouldn't be a permanent fix. After you get different studs in you can put the block off plate on (sandwich it between the gasket for the EGR and the carb gasket) Bolt the carb back on and your almost finished. The last thing would be to modify the throttle so it doesn't bind, in my case I had a throttle cable so I just bent the bracket that bolts to the head forward a bit to prevent the cable from binding (I wouldn't recomend trying to bend the bracket while attached to the head) and finnally as always there are probably more ways to do this than how I have mentioned and if anyone has anything to add, please do.

FORDS_FORLIFE

 

looks pretty involved. Might be better to get a NEW carb and a NEW intake manifold? That might be the way for a wannabe mechanic to learn what the hell he's doing....