Vibration on start???
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Vibration on start???
I have an 01 F-350 PSD 7.3 DRW Ex-Cab 4x4 . My question is, When starting from a dead stop during the first part of my accelleration the truck will start vibrating for about 3 seconds and then everything is fine. It feels like it is in the drivetrain but not sure which part of the drivetrain. It dont matter if is light or hard acceleration, it still does it, only lighter or harder vibration. It's not a smoooth acceleration like I would think. It will also do it when I first start backing up EVERY NOW AND THEN, but I attribute that to the DRW. Any thoughts???
Thanks in advance,
Obie
Thanks in advance,
Obie
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Sounds like a binding universal joint to me. Roll underneath and see if you are lucky enough to have some zerk fittings on your u-joints and shoot some grease in there. The standard grease gun fitting is too wide to fit so you have to get the little point adapter and push it into the feed hole on the zerk. You might already know of a better way but that's how I do mine.
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From: Ridgecrest, CA
Now I've had plenty-o-beers, but I agree "wit" only one of these replies. Since it's a 4x4, I'm guessing there's no intermediate shaft bearing, ergo, time to check the u-joints. Raise the rear-end and put the tranny in neutral, check both u-joints for play. If none found, rotate the drive shaft 90 degrees and check again. Does the truck have a posi? Even if it does(posi), I'd think the truck is too new to hae rearend prob's.
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From: Ridgecrest, CA
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the rear half of the rear driveshaft might have been removed and re-installed out of phase...line the u-joints up. also, you have not said if the trk is lifted or not...if it is, the axle housings have to be rotated because the driveline can only flex so much. the most common cause is a u-joint siezing up...you will need to remove the driveline to check the u-joints because in the first statges of joint failure, the joint starts to seize up...with the shaft off the trk, swivel ALL the joints. they should be free moving, no binding or sticking. this should start you in the right direction.
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From: Baltimore
Unless the suspension has been altered, it sounds like a u-joint starting to fail. The best way to check the u-joints is to remove the driveshaft and manually work the joint. If a joint is starting to sieze it doesn't have play. Sometimes there will be a telltale sign of rust dust on a failing joint. The joint gets play when the needle bearings are worn excessively and starting to fall out of the caps. Before removing the driveshaft mark the shaft and pinion flange so you can return it to the same orientation. If the u-joints check out OK, rotate the shaft 180 on the flange and see if it affects the vibration. Although rare, inspect the rear springs for broken leafs. Lastly, check the exhaust system for proper alignment.
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Thanks All,
The truck is not lifted and sorry I didnt state that it is an automatic tranny. It is bone stock with 60k miles. From the replies though I will be thouroughly checking my U-Joints and Greasing this weekend. How will I know if the u-joints are lined up correctly(if previously owner took off driveline)? Thanks again.
Obie
The truck is not lifted and sorry I didnt state that it is an automatic tranny. It is bone stock with 60k miles. From the replies though I will be thouroughly checking my U-Joints and Greasing this weekend. How will I know if the u-joints are lined up correctly(if previously owner took off driveline)? Thanks again.
Obie
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From: Baltimore
Most likely with 60k the shaft hasn't been removed before. If the driveshaft has been removed and the shaft and flange wasn't marked there is no way of knowing, at least as far as I know. Like I indicated, if the u-joints check out OK rotate the shaft 180 and road test.
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to phase the driveline...on the two piece rear shaft, all of the u-joints should be line, for example, start at the transmission (or transfer case) put the bearing cap straight down and look at the rest of the u-joint caps to see where they are...they should be in the same postion. at the splined joint, the yoke (the female splined end of the rear shaft) should be installed so that is matched to the other end of the front driveshaft tube ,NOT the yoke or flange that connects to the transfer case output, i'm talking about the ears on the end of the shaft tube, itself.( just as if was a one-piece shaft).
let me know if you understand this...maybe i can send you a picture?
let me know if you understand this...maybe i can send you a picture?
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fedextech,
I had to read your post a few times to understand what you were saying but I did figure out what you meant. I will be looking at it tomorrow to figure this whole thing out. I have a GOOD friend whose has worked on trannys for 23 years and he is going to drive it Saturday morning, and isolate the problem. I have a sonnax valve and tricumulator springs on the way but don't want to install until I KNOW it's not a tranny problem. Thanks for everyones help, I will check all driveline components tomorrow and let you know what I find.
Obie
P.S. Kwikkordead, NOPE no zerk fittings on my u-joints. They have to be replaced to have that luxury on my model.
I had to read your post a few times to understand what you were saying but I did figure out what you meant. I will be looking at it tomorrow to figure this whole thing out. I have a GOOD friend whose has worked on trannys for 23 years and he is going to drive it Saturday morning, and isolate the problem. I have a sonnax valve and tricumulator springs on the way but don't want to install until I KNOW it's not a tranny problem. Thanks for everyones help, I will check all driveline components tomorrow and let you know what I find.
Obie
P.S. Kwikkordead, NOPE no zerk fittings on my u-joints. They have to be replaced to have that luxury on my model.
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From: Baltimore
If you only have a one piece driveshaft what fedextech is talking about does not apply. A two piece driveshaft has three u-joints that have to be in proper orientation or phasing with each other. Ford has a TSB on vibration and two piece driveshafts. It involves shimming the center support bearing. I'm assuming since you have an ext-cab you only have the single shaft.