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I'll probably resemble a jello sandwich for a couple more days.
-Scouder
LOL!!! Gotta watch that heavy lifting. I'd suggest an engine lift, just cuz it's all aluminum don't mean you can toss the 511 over the fenders without help!
If it is detonation, I noticed when I had my distributor apart that there were two settings for total mechanical advance. One was "10L" and the other was "15L". I dont know what those numbers stand for, but maybe changing this in the distributor would help? That way he could still run the same initial.
If it is detonation, which it might not be at all. Just throwing things out there.
I'm running the MSD billet. Its easy to change the springs. But, we checked the timing, it's about 37 BTDC at max and 14 initial. The timing did start to jump a little after staying on the throttle for a while. I saw something like that before, MSD said to make sure the plug wires and the magnetic pickup wires were well separated. So, I tied the wires away fro meach other at the track, just before that last run. To me, that's the only sign that it could possible be ignition related. But, it doesnt happen in 1st or 2nd gear at the higher revs.
I got the O2 sensors installed. I still have to run the wires and mount the gauge.....It's kinda cold out there...At least for Texas.
Ahhh. I didn't know he was lifting. Now it makes more sense. I guess the fuel lines/filter are the next issue. I can't imagine that he is outrunning a 140 pump. That should be able to feed almost twice what he's using. You could try the ol' bucket trick to determine actual flow. It should free flow a gallon in about 30sec. by my math. The only other thing that pops to mind is that the pump may not be able to overcome the inertia of the fuel in that fat fuel line, and when he lifts it unloads it?
The only other thing that pops to mind is that the pump may not be able to overcome the inertia of the fuel in that fat fuel line, and when he lifts it unloads it?
Keep us posted.
-Scouder
There ya go thinking again. Another racer friend of mine said the same thing last night. Inertia, g forces all working against the flow of fuel. With -10 lines all the way to the carb there is little resistance to flow, but the larger lines also contribute to greater inertial loading against the fuel.
Greg, if you try the bucket test, use as much of the system plumbing as you can. Pull both lines of the carb and let it dump in a clean bucket.
There ya go thinking again. Another racer friend of mine said the same thing last night. Inertia, g forces all working against the flow of fuel. With -10 lines all the way to the carb there is little resistance to flow, but the larger lines also contribute to greater inertial loading against the fuel.
Greg, if you try the bucket test, use as much of the system plumbing as you can. Pull both lines of the carb and let it dump in a clean bucket.
its -10 from the tank to the pump, then -8 to the reg and from the reg to the -6 inlet on the splitter at the carb.
If I do the flow check, it will include plumbing all the way to that spliiter just shy of the carb.
You gotta love this forum. Some of the best technical discussions and advice from guys all over the country.
From everything I've read on fuel systems, you've got everything scienced out well. The pump you've got is more than capable of supplying adequate fuel for your requirements if it can maintain the rated flow at your pressure settings with the voltage supplied.
Keep us posted if you do the flow test and check your vacuum readings.
Oh yeah, Aeromotive has some great technical articles on their website. Lots of good info.
A/F gauge is installed and appears to be working. It looks to be a little rich across the rpm range....
I have not done the flow test yet..Gotta go to the wifey's office Christmas shindig. Nothing like going from grease monkey to fancy lawyer party in a matter of hours...
It may be a while before I get back to the truck. I actually have to work some starting Sunday :-( I might make the track next week, but it will most likely be the following week.
Thats all well and good, but we need the readings at full throttle right before, during, and after hitting 3rd. Also watch the A/F gauge at this time. It might help to have a friend along to watch instruments while you watch for grandma's backing out of driveways.
I dont know if you have an under-utilized highway / street you could use to find out...
Thats all well and good, but we need the readings at full throttle right before, during, and after hitting 3rd. Also watch the A/F gauge at this time. It might help to have a friend along to watch instruments while you watch for grandma's backing out of driveways.
I dont know if you have an under-utilized highway / street you could use to find out...
unfortunately, in my area, we now have more people than roads. Then the less traveled roads are a little twisty and crowded with venison.
My best tuning happens at the track. And I definitely need an observer...I guess I could keep an eye on it in drive. But, hifting takes all my concentration at this point.
I need to get a good shifter. Any suggestions?
Also, is there a simple data-taker that can tap into my A/F, tach, vacuum, temp, oil pressure, voltage etc. Sure would be nice to see all this on my PC. technogeek meets gearhead :-)
Yes. You are talking about a standard data acquisition unit. The are the nutz for seeing everything your engine is doing on a multiline graph. They are a little pricey once you add in all the probes and stuff though.
Everybody makes shifters for the C6, the problem is that they are all floor mount, so you may have to fab up a longer shaft so you don't have to bend over to shift. Do you have a shift improver kit in your tranny?
You should be proud that you are seriously chasing 13s. For all the talk out there, it is very stout vehicle that sees that kind of number, especially in a full-size truck with no weight reduction. By the way, tell me again how much she weighs, I can't remember.
Yes. You are talking about a standard data acquisition unit. The are the nutz for seeing everything your engine is doing on a multiline graph. They are a little pricey once you add in all the probes and stuff though.
Everybody makes shifters for the C6, the problem is that they are all floor mount, so you may have to fab up a longer shaft so you don't have to bend over to shift. Do you have a shift improver kit in your tranny?
You should be proud that you are seriously chasing 13s. For all the talk out there, it is very stout vehicle that sees that kind of number, especially in a full-size truck with no weight reduction. By the way, tell me again how much she weighs, I can't remember.
-Scouder
Can I hang a cable operated shifter below the dash?
You can do anything you want/can afford. That's why they call it hot roddin'. In the end it's all about what Greg wants. I expect, though, that the shifter kits are going to come with a "typical" cable setup, which is going to limit your positioning options. Strokster has much more experience with auto shifters than I do, so we need his input.
For what it's worth, I have been happy with my B&M Light Truck Megashifter. I run it in a 73' CrewCab, so the floor is certainly a bit different, but it is comfortable for me. The overall height of the unit is very adjustable.
I'm about 6'4 and when I sit up straight, my head grazes the ceiling; despite that, I have no problem reaching the shfiter and driving rather recklessly while still shifting.
The shifter itself is of the "ratcheting" genre, which means you cannot miss a shift.
If you're intrested, I'd be happy to take some measurements in my truck and my dad's 67' tomorrow - maybe let ya know how it'll work in your rig?
For only $164.99 or some jazz like that, it's a worthy investment. The best part, of course, is no matter how slow your truck is */the impaler raises hand*, you still feel like a race car driver with these baddies. : )
Hell, if you pay shipping, you can use mine for a few months. (Genuine offer).
Well I just got done picking the brains of some local boat racers. These guys live and breathe big blocks of all denominations. The consesus is....we're on the right track. That's what makes hot rodding so much fun.
As far as shifters go, there are a few made specifically for trucks. We can also fab up a pedestal and put any shifter you want in. Could make for a cool mini console. Add some more guages and a "beverage" holder.
Lokar makes some pretty trick stuff for street rodders and pick em ups. I think B&M and Hurst also make some nice 3 spd truck shifters. I'll poke around a bit.
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