I loosened the retaining nut and went to turn the screw to tighten up the steering but it didnt turn very much in either direction. I removed the retaining nut completely to see how much adjustment there was in it. I was suprised to only see about one turn in either direction. The threads look good and clean, is that all that there realy is? My steering is real loose and I've traced it down to the steering box. I was hoping not to have to replace it ($130 for a rebuilt box) but if that's all the adjustment that's in it looks like I may need to.
So is that all the adjustment that's realy in there or do I need to look further into why it's not turning anymore?

 

I don't know if that is all the adjustment, but Ford Steering boxes do have a reputation for wearing out due to high mileage, off-roading, and abuse.

 

to adjust you loosen the nut then hold the nut in one place with a wrench and turn the screw un until the shaft dosn't have as much play. Should hve plenty adjutment left. My mum has over 250,000 miles and still the same gearbox and has tight stering

 

Yea that's what I did at first, but there wasnt much play. So I removed the nut completely to see if it was binding it in anyway. But I can still only turn the screw a little, and it doesnt make any differance in the steering. It's still sloppy as a hog trough.
Guess a new box is in order. Dangit.

 

You started another thread on this issue...First off, post back in original thread, rather than starting a new one for the same problem...easier to keep track of for the rest of us this way.

Back to topic, have you had someone jiggle the steering wheel with the engine off to visually inspect ALL steering parts on the front end? you'll be looking mostly at the pitman arm that comes off the steering box for movement prior to anything else moving. The joint that comes off the pitman arm, both right and left inner and outer tie rod ends, etc. To check ball joints/kingpins requires jacking each front wheel off the ground, grabbing hold of the top and bottom of the tire, and giving it a push/pull motion, one hand pushes, while the other pulls, to feel for slack. If any one or more than one of these issues is found, replace parts accordingly. Before replacing the steering box, and if you can't find the problem yourself, have a suspension and alignment shop check it out for you. Explain the problem briefly, but don't mention the steering box. Let them check for you, and locate the problem. Steering boxes are expensive to replace/rebuild, and I'd suspect it last, unless it's leaking.

Edit. You will also want to visually check the u-joints in the steering cloumn to steering box shaft as well. Most people forget to grease them, if they are not the sealed type, and they will wear out. If the truck is prone to rust, the bearing at the bottom of the column near or in the firewall may be worn or have a sloppy fit as well. Food for thought, and a few more items to check.

 

I did? Where, I dont remember this.



Anyways, yes I did the things you suggested. Like I said, I traced it to the steering box. I even replaced that rubber spacer thing between the gear box and steering shaft hoping that was the problem. Didnt make any differance.
And yes, it's leaking, one more thing that lead me to my conclusion. I thought it was just the hose so I replaced it but that didnt fix the leak, the only other thing it could be is the box.

 

Could be someone else asked the same question, as I replied to the same question recently. Could have been my tired eyes thinking you were the same person.

Steering boxes fit on the 4x4's from 81-92, but not sure about 2wd trucks, one would have to double check that issue to be sure.

 

Hahaha, had me thinkin I was going senial at 25! Hahaha. I believe I did mention my bad steering in a previouse post, but I dont think I've ever actualy made any real mention of it. Could be wrong, I dunno.
Anyways, my trucks a 4x4 so your info there helped, thanks. I have been working on my truck all day today dealin with various other problems I'm having and decided to toy around with the gear box some more. I put some thread sealer around the connection for the hose from the pump to the box (on the box side) and that seems to have pluged the leak. For now anyhow. But there still is no adjustment in the screw. I can turn it all the way one way or the other and no differance is made. Priced them at a few more places and found prices vary from $180-$120 for a reman. Not counting the core charge.


So If I go to remove it would I need anything special besides a puller for the pitman arm? Bout how much fluid would I need to fill the new box and pump?

Thanks alot for yall's help.

 

did ya check napa, i thoght i was closer to a 100 for the one we got. You will need a puller for the pitman arm.

 

Actualy no I havent. The closest one to me is like a hr away. So far the Car Quest seems to have the best price for a reman at $120 and a $60 core charge. But I always take my parts off first and bring them in so I can compare it to the "new" one and avoid the core charge.
I'll go ahead and give them a call tomorrow to check their price, thanks for the suggestion. Since they're so far away I always seem to forget about them.

 

If a hose is leaking, likely it's out of tourque(the hoses do have specs) PST(paste type thread sealer that replaces teflon tape) is the best bet for that. I was more concerned about the box itself being the cause of the leak, as often the seal around the output shaft will leak(just above the pitman arm).

If it's a minor hose leak, those are more easily cure-able, and are around 30 bucks Canadian for the pressure line, and 15 bucks for the return line, as it only has one fitting end, the pump end is a hose clamp ordeal. The rubber fitting between the sterring column linkage and the box can dry up, but is least likely to cause slop in the steering. When was the last time your tie rod ends were replaced. Have a buddy slowly turn the wheel hack and forth with the truck at rest(not running) and be underneath the front end and visually check your tie rod ends. The next thing to check would also be your drag links or radius arms. If the bushings there are worn, they will act as pivot points, and create slop in the steering, making you think there is another problem. be sure to check EVERYTHING attached to your front axle, as all, in any minor way, will contribute to the slop/slack in the steering. I once had a bracket loosen on my front end, causing a shake at certain speeds, and it took a bit to find it, but it created all kinds of hell until I replaced the bold and lock nut(lucky it didn't come totally loose and kill me, the shake was bad enough without that, that it could have if I hadn't kept my head when it happened) Look for any un-usual movement, even where you do not expect it to be, prior to starting to replace parts, and even graba front end specialist's advice for a second opinion. Steering boxes can get sloppy, but tends to be more so a manual box than a p/s box. Usually with p/s, other parts are to blame. Get it checked out before you start the expensive test of replacing parts you do not need.

 

Your concern is the set screw not allowing anymore adjustment. Maybe the case here is it was used to improperly adjust the steering before. It's rare that adjusting the set screw will be much more then fine tweeking. I too would assume the box is shot but probably from the steering linkage being in poor condition from the start. Using the set screw did not remedy the problem and probably just added to the wear.