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Ok, now I'm confused wether or not I coked the turbo or not. From what I have read, coking of a turbo is when there is insufficient lubrication of the bearings causing what little bit of oil there is to turn into a solid. Now here is the problem....everyone says to give it a couple of minutes to idle to cool the turbo down, BUT....if you idle too long you will clog your EGR valve with excessive carbon, which inturn might make a debris problem (carbon flying into the turbo causing damage). The FORD mechanic told me not to idle the engine for more than 20-30 seconds.
Ok, now I'm confused wether or not I coked the turbo or not. From what I have read, coking of a turbo is when there is insufficient lubrication of the bearings causing what little bit of oil there is to turn into a solid. Now here is the problem....everyone says to give it a couple of minutes to idle to cool the turbo down, BUT....if you idle too long you will clog your EGR valve with excessive carbon, which inturn might make a debris problem (carbon flying into the turbo causing damage). The FORD mechanic told me not to idle the engine for more than 20-30 seconds.
You can blame the problems with the 6.0 on technicians like THESE.
I honestly doubt you are the cause of the turbo failure, but that is just my opinion.
Last edited by PSD 60L Fx4; Dec 1, 2004 at 07:28 PM.
I doubt you are the reason for the failure either. That tech is blowing smoke.
This is in the Owners Manual Diesel Supplement:
STOPPING THE ENGINE
Turn the ignition to OFF. To prolong engine life (after extended high
speed or maximum GVW operation), it is recommended that a hot engine
be allowed to operate at low idle for about 7–10 minutes which would
allow sufficient time for the turbocharged engine to cool down.
Turbo life saver is really not necessary if you are using a post lube, as it will disperse heat from the turbo by continuing to pressure oil through the bearings after it stops spinning.
as for the oil guard filter, no it is a centrifuge that slings the dirt out of your oil as the engine is running through cantrifugal force. It does not yuse any other element than a piece of notebook paper, which just makes the trash easier to clean off.
check out spinner productshttp://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm
Turbo life saver is really not necessary if you are using a post lube, as it will disperse heat from the turbo by continuing to pressure oil through the bearings after it stops spinning.
as for the oil guard filter, no it is a centrifuge that slings the dirt out of your oil as the engine is running through cantrifugal force. It does not yuse any other element than a piece of notebook paper, which just makes the trash easier to clean off.
check out spinner productshttp://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm
Ryan
Woah- that spinner thing cleans up to 1/10th of a micron
That seems like some great protection, but I bet those things aren't cheap...
I also noticed it requires an "air supply", so I'm guessing it needs a compressor to run?
I work at a dealer and I have seen a couple seized turbos and alot that have blown oil seals. One actually caused a run away diesel. The turbo's on the 6.0's are junk.
I work at a dealer and I have seen a couple seized turbos and alot that have blown oil seals. One actually caused a run away diesel. The turbo's on the 6.0's are junk.
WOW is that a blanket statement about every trubo on all 6.0s
Woah- that spinner thing cleans up to 1/10th of a micron
That seems like some great protection, but I bet those things aren't cheap...
I also noticed it requires an "air supply", so I'm guessing it needs a compressor to run?
Do you have any experience with them?
Yes I do have experience with them, never knew they made them for our application though. Yes it would require a compressor.
You would be supprised how good the oil looks we drain out of the engine and how clean the sock filters are, but then you open the spinner up, and there is litterally a 4"wide band around the inside 1/2" to 1" thick. (by the way the paper elements are not necessary, but there's a lot of scraping if you dont!!)
I work at a dealer and I have seen a couple seized turbos and alot that have blown oil seals. One actually caused a run away diesel. The turbo's on the 6.0's are junk.
I Agree 100%! I have a friend that is the Diesel Tech at one of the highest volume Super Duty dealers in the state and maybe even region, and says that the Turbos are well designed just had a few flaws in the beginning, but, has not seen any turbo failures. He has replaced several VGT Solenoids but other than that he says that there is little to no problems on the newer 6.0's and that most of the problems were on the 2003 Family Year of engines.
I work at a dealer and I have seen a couple seized turbos and alot that have blown oil seals. One actually caused a run away diesel. The turbo's on the 6.0's are junk.
Is the EGR valve clogging a blanket statement on all 6.0s. Is it something I should worry about? 20-30 seconds is like idling at a stop light.
I idle 10-20 minutes to warm it up. When cold it runs BAD. I can just see all the different metal types, each expanding at a different rate, grinding each other to a pulp until she warms up.
The block warmer didn't save as much time as I anticipated.