Three on tree problem
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville
Three on tree problem
I have recently rebuilt my column three speed shifter.
It's tight and shifts very well now, but every now
and then the shifter gets jammed. It will get stuck
in first or neutral and I have to force the linkage
under the hood to get it working again. Everything
looked normal when I put it back together. This
happen to anyone?
It's tight and shifts very well now, but every now
and then the shifter gets jammed. It will get stuck
in first or neutral and I have to force the linkage
under the hood to get it working again. Everything
looked normal when I put it back together. This
happen to anyone?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville
I had another steering column and used the parts from that.
The biggest improvement came when I replaced the 3 nylon washers
that seperate the two shift arms near the bottom. If you look
at a picture of the steering column in a DC catalog, it's part #'s
7D363 & 7336. The bearings were in good shape so I did not replace.
The biggest improvement came when I replaced the 3 nylon washers
that seperate the two shift arms near the bottom. If you look
at a picture of the steering column in a DC catalog, it's part #'s
7D363 & 7336. The bearings were in good shape so I did not replace.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Nicholas, This was a problem of that era and was not exclusive to Ford. My wife had trouble driving my truck 30 years ago because she could drive without locking up the gears. I kept a claw hammer on the hump just for her.
I'll try to splain it so you can drive without hanging. You are basicaly pushing the shifter from 1st to 2nd and that is in the hang zone. With wrist movement you can avoid the hangups, and can do it pretty quickly, even though speed shifting is out. Here goes. Pull the shifting arm (lever) towards the steering wheel while lifting out of 1st. until you are fully in the neutral zone. Let the lever drop fully towards the firewall and lift into second without pushing towards the dash.
That method worked pretty well for me. I could drive the truck daily without hanging the gears and my wife couldn't.
Try it and let us know how it works out.
John
I'll try to splain it so you can drive without hanging. You are basicaly pushing the shifter from 1st to 2nd and that is in the hang zone. With wrist movement you can avoid the hangups, and can do it pretty quickly, even though speed shifting is out. Here goes. Pull the shifting arm (lever) towards the steering wheel while lifting out of 1st. until you are fully in the neutral zone. Let the lever drop fully towards the firewall and lift into second without pushing towards the dash.
That method worked pretty well for me. I could drive the truck daily without hanging the gears and my wife couldn't.
Try it and let us know how it works out.
John
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
I had a 68 Chevy that would do something like that, it would stay in 1st while the lever was in 2nd, only happened when I tried to shift to fast. Had to forcewith some wiggling back into 1st and then shift slower into second. These old systems weren't real great, but if you do it right, they will work. Just remember that it is still an H pattern, so treat it like that, and it should work just fine.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Might be an off-beat thought. Are you using the recommended gear lube in the trans? I believe it was straight 50w gear lube for those old transmissions. 80w90 is a bit to heavy for them, and will create problems you would otherwise not get from a 4 speed top-loader. It's because the trans has linkage on the outside, and any extra resistance will cause things to not move as smoothly as it should. The nylon bushings previously mentioned are key as well to smooth shifting. Also, make sure your clutch has the proper amount of end-play(free play) in it, so that the clutch is properly engaging and dis-engaging, and also make sure you're clutch foot isn't "lazy". I've seen people push the clutch down, and not allow it to go down all the way, and don't even realize they're doing it. Clolumn shifts are great, and will provide years of service as long as they are taken care of. Had over 700,000 miles on my '72 (two engines) and it was still working flawlessly when it was finally retired.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26
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From: Gainesville
Thanks John. I'll try that method next time. I did notice the problem was happening after I was trying to shift fast. I was perplexed because it never happen before I took the column apart, so I assumed it was something I did in the rebuild process. I was able to isolate the problem to the linkage or tranny. It is definitely not the shifter. I have a new T-5 from Summit that will be going in the truck next month anyway. I just wanted to be able to drive it until then. Thanks again.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by gatorfan
Thanks RR4E, I did put 90W in the tranny. If the problem persists I’ll try a thinner oil.
Try 50w, 90w is to heavy unless you're under adverse heat conditions.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 34
From: S/W Virginia
i agree with 4cammer72, you just need to do some fine tuning on the linkage. i had to do a lot of fine tuning to get mine adjusted right. i can drive it all day now and not hang it in any gear and my dad gets in it and he hangs it up every time, so adjustment is a big part of it, but there is a little skill involved.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
Fuzz
It is normal to try to set the levers that extend from the column shifter nice and even. Even though you have gone thru extensive rebuilding, there is usually some play left to deal with. I have had good luck from preventing lockup by leading the lever that is for second and third slightly in the direction it needs to move to shift. When you find that sweet spot, speed shifting isn't even a problem and shifting in a really diliberate manner works good also. Make sure the rod ends and the bushings are a good fit with the levers on column and tranny.
New User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Hi !!
I have a '71 302 cid F100 2 wheeler and a couple of months ago i posted a topic called "Three on the tree concerns"...
the answers i got made me decide to completly rebuilt my manual shifter with all new parts.. that's what i'm doing right now
Gator, how hard was it rebuilding the 3 speed ?? anything i should well be aware off ?? i hear is difficult to get the shift tube back in..
Soaper steve, i bought most of the parts at Dennis Carpenter Reproductions.. they have a super catalog (p. 26: parts / p.20: gear shift linkage diagram...you can download it and order online at http://www.dennis-carpenter.com)
i ordered:
other parts, like the GEAR SHIFT TUBE MANUAL STEERING (cheaper) and the GEAR SHIFT LEVER IMPACT SEAL i ordered from online JOHN'S F-FUN HUNDREDS at https://www.johnsf100.com/6772shop/index.htm (look under 3 speed shifter in left pane)
The Transmission Control Selector Lever Socket i got from LMC (http://www.lmctruck.com/ford_truck_cat_page.htm) because they had it cheaper than the rest. you may also find them on Ebay..
The only part i couldn't get was a new gear shift lever itself.. so if anybody has one ??
If anybody has more info or tips for me ?!! ... they are very welcome indeed
John
I have a '71 302 cid F100 2 wheeler and a couple of months ago i posted a topic called "Three on the tree concerns"...
the answers i got made me decide to completly rebuilt my manual shifter with all new parts.. that's what i'm doing right now
Gator, how hard was it rebuilding the 3 speed ?? anything i should well be aware off ?? i hear is difficult to get the shift tube back in..
Soaper steve, i bought most of the parts at Dennis Carpenter Reproductions.. they have a super catalog (p. 26: parts / p.20: gear shift linkage diagram...you can download it and order online at http://www.dennis-carpenter.com)
i ordered:
1 Column Gear Shift Lever Insulator - Standard Transmission
1 Column Shift Lever Arm for Low and Rev. Gear 1 Column Shift Lever Arm for 2nd and 3rd Gear
1 Column Gear Shift Selector Arm Bushing and Insulator repair kit
Shift Arm Clip - Standard transmission - 4 per truck1 Column Shift Lever Spacer - plastic
Column Gear Shift Arm Thrust Washer - 2 per column
other parts, like the GEAR SHIFT TUBE MANUAL STEERING (cheaper) and the GEAR SHIFT LEVER IMPACT SEAL i ordered from online JOHN'S F-FUN HUNDREDS at https://www.johnsf100.com/6772shop/index.htm (look under 3 speed shifter in left pane)
The Transmission Control Selector Lever Socket i got from LMC (http://www.lmctruck.com/ford_truck_cat_page.htm) because they had it cheaper than the rest. you may also find them on Ebay..
The only part i couldn't get was a new gear shift lever itself.. so if anybody has one ??
If anybody has more info or tips for me ?!! ... they are very welcome indeed
John