Factory installed engine heater
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Factory installed engine heater
I have a 97 250 powerstoke and got no owners manual with the truck. I've been trying to locate an engine heater. I found a cord that runs into the top of the oil filter area. Does anyone know if this is a block heater or and oil heater? I have it plugged in right now to see if it does anything.. Just curious if anyone knows if this is a factory installed heater...
Thanks
Thanks
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Originally Posted by Domino'sDiesel
Yep. That is the block heater which actually warms your oil .
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It was 26 degrees last night. When I started the truck this morning the coolant was in the warm and the heater blow warm air. The truck started like it had been running all day.. I kinda figured it was warming the coolant..
Sheesh, wish I would have known this last winter!
Sheesh, wish I would have known this last winter!
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Does anyone know how much power (amps) this stock heater draws? I'm just wondering because last night it got down to 28 and I plugged the heater in for the first time. I noticed after about 3 hours that my extension cord plug into the wall receptacle was quite warm. I'm not using a cheap, thin extension cord by any means, but a commercial, 10 guage, 3 conductor with ground. The extension cord is 25 feet long, and about a half inch in diameter, ao I know the cord is capable of handleling 30 amps (10 guage). So....I have to "assume" that the block heater is drawing quite a load in order to heat up this cord. Could the heater be bad, or is this normal?? I wouldn't even consider leaving it plugged in all night under these conditions!
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From: Baltimore
At the suggestion of others, I bought a HD timer to plug the heater into. Set it to come on a couple hours prior to expected use.
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I have a 25 ft cord run along the wall to a surge protector that is rated at 1825 watts. I use the surge protector as an on and off switch because of the spark I get with I plug or unplug it.. From there an 8 foot cord. None of the cords get hot or even noticbly warm.
Sounds like you could have another issue..
Sounds like you could have another issue..
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From: Morgantown WV
I use a 15 amp timmer and a cord with a lighted end. Both bought at Lowes. Set the timmer for 3 hrs before I leave and goes off about 30 min. after (might sleep in). With the lighted cord I can make sure its on when I get up, if not I can fix the problem and let it warm or start it a little early.
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
I am "assuming" that the heater works much in the same way as an electric water heater. There is an element inside the block's water jacket that is surrounded by water which convects the heat produced by the element. I remember years ago I had an electric water heater in my house that started blowing the fuses. I finally drained the tank and removed the lower element. When I pulled it out, I was surprised to see it completely covered in sediment! That was what was blowing the fuse, the sediment was surrounding the element, thereby preventing the water contact with the element. This led to the element getting too hot by staying on all the time, and by not having the water to cool it. Once I flushed out the tank (I got a 5 gallon pail full of sediment) and re-installed the same element, the problem went away. It never blew a nother fuse and the water was much hotter. So, I'm thinking maybe that in the engine block, the same thing can happen. The heating element could get "buried" in sediment and cause an excessive current draw. Just my theory, I guess I'll have to pull the element to see for sure!
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Originally Posted by BigRed350
I am "assuming" that the heater works much in the same way as an electric water heater. There is an element inside the block's water jacket that is surrounded by water which convects the heat produced by the element. I remember years ago I had an electric water heater in my house that started blowing the fuses. I finally drained the tank and removed the lower element. When I pulled it out, I was surprised to see it completely covered in sediment! That was what was blowing the fuse, the sediment was surrounding the element, thereby preventing the water contact with the element. This led to the element getting too hot by staying on all the time, and by not having the water to cool it. Once I flushed out the tank (I got a 5 gallon pail full of sediment) and re-installed the same element, the problem went away. It never blew a nother fuse and the water was much hotter. So, I'm thinking maybe that in the engine block, the same thing can happen. The heating element could get "buried" in sediment and cause an excessive current draw. Just my theory, I guess I'll have to pull the element to see for sure!
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Originally Posted by cookie88
Your assumption is correct, and I suspect your theory is as well, though it could also be in the trucks power cord. Drain the coolant before you pull the element unless you want to wear it.
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From: Braham MN
Originally Posted by tobetaxfree
I am pretty sure it takes 1500 watts, which is roughly 15 amps.
I have a 97 with the factory heater, installed directly above the oil filter. the resistance across the two cord terminals was 12 ohms, which when you take your voltage of 120Vac divided by 12ohms you get 10amps. which when you take that 10 amps multiplied by your 120Vac you get 1200watts.
So my block heater takes 10 amps of curent. or produces 1200 watts of power. for anyone who wants to know.
I knew I went to two years of college for something
Diesel rod