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Still a problem, must be vacumn?

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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 10:16 AM
  #1  
trakman's Avatar
trakman
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Still a problem, must be vacumn?

Got another snow last night. Tried the 4-wheel drive out again and after flipping the switch on the dash with the hubs in "auto", the front drive line turns but the hubs will not lock. Tried the proven method and manually locked them in and yes I do have front axle power. As all of you have suggested, it's the vacumn system that is not automatically locking the hubs in. My question is what does this system consist of? I know you all have talked about split hoses, but whats beyond that? If I don't have split hoses, is there some kind of canister or accumulator that feeds these hoses or does it work off of the engine vacumn system? This truck is out of warrenty but I'd like to get it fixed...paid good money for this truck and want it working 100%
 
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 10:55 AM
  #2  
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realhp
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The vacuum seals on your axle stubs in the knuckle could be leaking not allowing the hubs to be locked in. This was the problem with mine.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 11:14 AM
  #3  
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From: Kansas
Not anything real simple then....huh?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 12:45 PM
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Must be a Kansas or Missouri thing. I was just getting ready to post about the same question, but thought I would jump in with your case. I have I believe the same issue. The 4x4 light comes on, but no 4 wheel drive in the auto position. I found out on a muddy road. You can lock the hubs and it works fine. This weekend with my neighbor we did some testing. We tested the relays. If you turn on your accessories and start flipping the 4x4 switch you can hear it clicking in the relays and I think it also clicks around the transfer case. This tested ok. He then put a vacuum gauge or tester on the vacuum lines into the hubs. One tested ok and one did not. The one that was ok when he put vacuum against it you could hear a small click and it would hold the vacuum pressure. The other one would not click and would not hold vacuum. How expensive and difficult of a process is it to get into the hub and replace whatever component is bad?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 01:50 PM
  #5  
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Inquiring minds want to know? What creates the vacuum? I'm like you danielboone4, I think that only one side of mine is at fault because the other day on dry pavement and doing a sharp slow turn as a test, I could feel a slight "fighting" of the steering wheel. Now with them manually locked in, the steering wheel really "fights". Maybe both of us will get more imput on this problem.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 02:28 PM
  #6  
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On the Superduty diesels, there is a little electric vacuum pump on the passenger side of the engine compartment that supplies the vacuum. If you get one hub locking in and one not, then your vacuum supply is probably OK, it's probably a problem at the one hub.

Duncan
 
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 05:24 PM
  #7  
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From: The Republic of Texas
FroBozz,

So do you have a solution to the problem? Just discovered mine is doing the same exact thing!!! Would like to fix the problem but not sure where to start. I've always heard that it is not good to leave the hubs locked in all the time. I would just set them to lock if it didn't do long term damage. Please advise as I'm sure everyone would like to be able to fix this problem themselves instead of taking it in to a "stealership".

Thanks,
tex1313
 
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 06:39 PM
  #8  
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I think that realhp is right and far as only one side working and one not it still isnt going to pull its going to turn the easyest axel unless you have a locker in the front
 
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 09:27 PM
  #9  
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From: Albuquerque NM
First you can verify that the vacuum pump is working by turning the **** on your climate control from the lower vents to the Defrost and if cycles through them all and stays in the position you have selected the pump is ok. Another test is to disconnect both of the vacuum lines from the knuckles and cap one at a time and put a vacuum gauge on the other line and with the key in the on position select 4X4 and see if you have vacuum on the gauge repeat with the other line. If you don’t have vacuum on either line you may have a problem with the selector valve next to the vacuum pump on the passenger side or a leaky line. Next you will need to use a manual hand vacuum pump and connect it to the knuckle and see if you can pump it under vacuum and get the hub to lock in, repeat for the other side and you should be able to point to the problem which I stated is probably the seals on the axles.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 09:55 PM
  #10  
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Does anybody (realhp) know the approximate cost for parts and labor to replace the seals? Is it a complex job?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 10:51 PM
  #11  
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If I remember right the seals where around $50 bucks a side. As far as complex I guess it depends on your level of mechanical ability and if you have the correct tools.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 06:20 AM
  #12  
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One more reason to go manual all the way ! You know when the hubs are locked and the trasfercase is in 4 high/low or two wheel .
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 11:37 AM
  #13  
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If you guys are interested, see my later post entitled "Simple fix..what do you guys think?"
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 12:44 PM
  #14  
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danielboone4
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From: Belton, MO
When you lock the hubs manually, how should you have the shift on the fly switch (2wd, 4 lo or 4 high) or does it even matter? When the hubs are locked in is it 4 high or 4 low?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 02:39 PM
  #15  
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From: Leesburg , Fl.
Originally Posted by danielboone4
When you lock the hubs manually, how should you have the shift on the fly switch (2wd, 4 lo or 4 high) or does it even matter? When the hubs are locked in is it 4 high or 4 low?
With the hubs locked you can select all of the above . You select which you prefer to run in , the hubs being locked has nothing to do with with the mode ( 4 or 2 wheel drive, hi or low ) that the transfercase is in .
 
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