I realize the topic of towing has been discussed in the past, but my question is pretty simple, I think.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

I have an 95 E150, 5.0 L, and want to do pull a trailer to move some household stuff about 45 miles away. Numerous trips as the household is moving.<o></o>

Anyway, the Owners Manual has all the specs for towing, rear/front axle recommendations, etc. For my van, it looks like the range is 0 to 6600 lbs.(GCWR), rear axle 3800 lbs. Additionally, the door jam of the van specifies GAWR(F) 3400 lbs, GAWR(R) 3800 lbs.<o></o>

Now, I think I am capable of figuring out the calcs to determine my max total capability, however, it seems to me the limiting factor may be the line in the manual that states: "Supercooling is required with trailers over 2000 lbs." and "Supercooling and Handling/Suspension Package or Trailer Towing package requred with trailers over 3500 lbs".<o></o>

A few years ago, I tried to define exactly what each of the packages was, but neither local Ford dealerships or Ford Corporation could give me an exact meaning of what Supercooling or Trailer towing consisted of from their end. Frustrating to say the least.<o></o>

Anyway, I guess my question is, to play it safe, since I do not have either supercooling or towing package, should I just try not to exceed 2000 lbs.? I'm assuming that weight means both the trailer and the cargo.<o></o>

The three trailers I am looking at are: 1) 4 x 8, Max Load = 1220 lbs, empty weight = 780 lbs, Class I hitch needed with min 2000 lb wt.; 2) 5 x 8, Max Load = 1800 lbs, GVW = 2700 lbs, trailer weight empty = 900 lbs.; and 3) 5 x 10, Max Load = 1500 lbs, GVW = 2800 lbs, empty trailer weight = 1250 lbs, Class II 3500 lb min hitch needed.<o></o>

Our van has 158,000 miles and is our primary vehicle, so I don't want to risk damaging the tranny just to save a few bucks on moving.<o></o>

Thoughts?<o></o>

Jim E.

 

Generally,

HD cooling systems are either a larger radiator, additional transmission cooling, or both.

Suspension upgrades can be heavier rear springs and better shocks.

Towing packages can be anything from a simple Class III hitch w/ light connections, to adding a trailer brake systems, to a combination of all of the above.

From what I've seen over the years, US manfacturers seem to be fairly conservative with the tow ratings on their lighter-duty trucks.

Personally, I'd say you are being pretty conservative with your trailer choices and should be OK, depending on how hilly your area is. I've seen E150's towing much bigger and heavier travel trailers and I they were obviously going farther than 45 miles.

 

My dad towed almost 15k with his '88 Club Wagon, with a 302/AOD. His radiator clogged somewhere between Decatur IN, and MArion OH. Causing is to boil. If it hadn't been for that he would have had no problems. The van had about 250k miles on it then, the only thing that it was doing was screaming for help. The trans was so hot that it was litterally crying at idle (as described by my brother who was with him). They packed an entire house into a 16" box trailer that was built out of an old mobile home, and the back of the van. He made it, but by the time he got to where we were staying the van didn't want to run. We left it cool off for a few hours and all was good again.

 

I have a 95 E150 with 100k miles. I tow a 6000 lb boat and took it 1200 miles away on vacation last summer. I do have the extra cooling, but its cold out now... I was driving in the heat of southern summer.

With your rig, I would use the middle sized trailer. I dont think you could overweight it with typical household stuff, but I would keep it to about 3000 lbs max (your best guess). For perspective, your typical lazy boy goes around 80-100 lbs tops, so a load would be 20 lazy boys if you allow for the trailer weight... not going to happen.

Avoid steep uphill grunts and go easy on acceleration from a dead stop... and be careful with the china! You'll be fine.

Cheers
Curt

 

Yeah... be carefull with those clogged radiators... overheating problem + mechanic who didn't do a flow test on the cooling system = one new (rebuilt) engine and me $4000 poorer.

 

Towing 3000 pounds in the winter, for 45 miles even without a tow package will probably be OK. I take it you change trans fluid and other fluids regularly, so with this small amount of weight you'll be fine. Most states require trailer brakes at 1500+ pounds, but even if you don't have surge-type trailer brakes 3000 pounds isn't much. Just be careful stopping, and don't wail on the throttle uphill, I towed a 5500 lb travel trailer all over heck and back with my E-150 w/302 and E40D. No worries mate, Ken

 

Jim, have a '95 Clubwagon that I tow with. Its a 5 liter, 4R70W, E150 chassis. It has racked up over 200,000 miles pulling my trailer (it has 228K total miles). The fully loaded trailer is 4800 lbs and I put another 800 lbs of equipment in the back of the van. Mine has never missed a beat. The way Ford figures the towing capacity I am waaaay over.

You should be fine towing any of those trailers. You didn't note which transmission or rear end it has but most 5 liters have the 4R70W and 3:32 gear. Look to see if you have a transmission cooler already. The factory unit is located in the upper right corner of the grill viewed from the front. If it doesn't have one its a good idea to add one anyway. Expect to pay $150 to have a quality unit professionally installed.

Be carefull how you load the trailer so its properly balanced and take your time pulling it.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

Thanks everyone for the advice. According to the VIN, I have the 3:31 rear end and I am pretty sure there is no auxiliary tranny cooler. I try to get the fluid changed every 30,000 miles and it now has about 158,000.

The previous owner towed something with it, as I can see where the hitch had been bolted and it still has the wiring dangling down. I just need to install another hitch. We are probably just going to be moving some house belongings.

Dilemna is that I keep thinking I will replace this van soon, and then just outfit the new one the way I want it long term, so I don't want to put a lot into this one. However, it keeps running fine and takes care of our current needs, so we will hang onto it as long as it continues to do so.

Thanks again.

Jim
P.S. This probably leads into a totally different thread, and may be a volatile point amongst such die hard Ford owners, but for our next van we have been planning on purchasing the Chevy Express extended over the 15 passenger Ford for the following reasons: 1) we have a large family and need the extra seating; 2) I would like to pull my father in laws travel trailer, around 5000 lbs.; 3) by stretching the wheelbase, I have been told the extended Chevy is more stable for towing than the Ford (with the long overhang); 4) Chevy now offers the "antiflip" features for there newer vans; 5) Chevy also offers doors on both sides, I believe, in their new full size vans. I'm hoping to wait a year or two and then purchase about a 2004 used van. Anyone have any thoughts on this matter?

 

Jim, You shouldn't have any problems keeping your van for a couple more years. As I noted, mine is over 228,000 miles and still going strong. If you have kept it serviced you should see many more miles of good service.

As for your PS: 1) The 15 passenger Clubwagon is the standard in the "people hauler" market. So you shouldn't be gaining anthing here by choosing a Chevy. 2) The 15 passenger E350 will pull such a trailer just fine and you have far more engine choices with the Ford. 3) Yes, wheelbase is your friend when towing and the Ford has more overhang but I doubt you will notice the difference. Also, that extra wheelbase has its downside too. Drive each van and see how much more manuverable the Ford is. 4) The jury is still out on the "anti-flip" feature. The problem with the Ford 15 passenger is limited to extreme evasive manuvers AND having the van overloaded behind the axle. 5) Don't know how usefull that is because I don't use mine as a people hauler. Sounds cool though.

I should point out that my Clubwagon replaced a Chevy. I have had several GMs and Fords (various cars, trucks, vans). My experience has led me away from GM and to Fords. Right now I have three Ford cars and two ford trucks (including my Clubwagon). The GM vehicles I have owned all demonstrated quality issues. Cheap plasticy parts used throughout the vehicle. Switches gear, handles, trim, interior, etc... all felt cheap and flimsy and eventually failed. Door handles that broke off repeatedly. Window chanels that repeated popped their spot welds. I replaced the AC blower motor switch at least 5 times before the motor itself failed. The blower is powered directly through the switch instead of a relay!!! Every GM vehicle I ever owned had issues with the stalk switches (cruise, wipers, turnsignals).

In the 230K miles I towed with the Chevy I replace the engine once, the transmission was built eight times (yep, eight times), rebuilt the rear axle once, resealed the intake manifold once. Multiple starters, alternators, AC compressors and PS pumps. And that damned accessory bracket on the front of the motor! Rebuilt the front end (ball joints, idler arms, drag links, tie rods, etc... replaced the fuel pump... And the final indignity, the paint fell off. Yep and GM didn't see that as a problem.

My clubwagon at 228K, other than regular maintenance: Replaced the fuel pump at 180K miles. Replaced the AC compressor at about 150K miles. Replaced intake snorkle (split at the hose clamp) at about 200K miles (this also cause the catalytic converter to fail and require replacement). And that's it. Today its as tight and rattle free as the day I bought it. I would buy another tomorrow. My other Fords have similar history. I commute to work (90 miles round trip) in a '98 Taurus that currently has 174K miles. The ONLY thing that has required work on this car has been the transmission (at 145K miles). Nothing else has broken on this car. Nothing.

I actually don't consider myself a "Ford Guy". My taste is for sports and GT cars of which I have several, both European and Japanese. But when it comes to "appliances" instead of toys, I buy Fords now.

Good Luck.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT

 

I have a 15 passenger Ford E-350, and I tow a big trailer. The overhang is a bit longer, so the trailer bucks a bit more, but that's it. The 'anti-flip' featue is a stability control system, not some kind of magic anti-roll thingie for vans, it's on lots of new cars and trucks. It cuts engine power, applies certain brakes but NOTHING will overcome driver stupidity.

As far as the Ford's so-called propensity to roll, A; it has always been just a rumor. And B; it has been rumored that when the van is loaded with 12 or more larger people and has an unexperienced driver that it has a higher possibility of rolling. If you'll do some research into the van rollings you will see that in the most prominent accident, the firefighters returning from Idaho. That the driver had been drinking, and had never driven a large, utility vehicle before.

I guess if you wanted to put up with lots of quality control issues you could gain an extra door on the drivers side. Go look at a 4 year old Ford van, and then go look at a 4 year old Chevy and look at the service history.

The only feature I like on the new GM vans is the AWD feature. Hopefully Ford will notice and offer that to us. But that Chevy Express is just way, way too ugly for my tastes, I'd have to drive it with a bag over my head, and then I bet I would get in all kinds of rollovers, hee hee, Ken

 

Pretty funny. It took us about five years to finally accept the possibility of driving the ugly Chevy with the high back lights. Someone told me once that was actually a safety feature, that cars approaching from behind could still see your lights even if the back doors are open (don't know if it is true or no). Ford has a much more attractive looking van.

I've never been a diehard follower of any particular car brand, but there are a few I won't go near, like the Chrysler minivans (with its inevitable tranny failure).

I agree with the comments on flips due to inexperience and overloading. I always say you can't expect to drive these things like a sports car or they will flip. Where I live there are an abundance of 15 passenger vans on the market from the commuter van services. They seem to run them 30 - 50K, then want to get rid of them, so you usually can get a pretty decent deal if you don't mind simple bench seats and not a lot of bells and whistles. There are not as many similiar Chevy's out there on the used market. I have to admit I've gotten most of my info on the Chevy vs Ford towing issue from my father in law. He pulls his trailer with a Chevy Astro and has had major transmission work done two times now. I think he is pushing the upper ends of its ability to tow with his 5000# trailer (approx). Anyway, he reads the trailer magazines and is sold on the full size Chevy Extended over Ford because of the swaying etc. associated with the overhang. He now has my wife convinced, so you know how hard of a job to convince a woman that her Dad is wrong.......ha, ha.

Thanks for the input. Hopefully I can put off the decision for a few more years anyway. As with most of my car purchases, it will probably come down to the best deal that I happen upon.

Jim

 

Yep, bottom line, you will be making the payment. Buy what fits your needs best in your opinion, take care and good luck, Ken

 

Actually, most states are at 3k and above before requiring brakes on the trailer.
Here's the info: http://www.towingworld.com/brakinglaws.html

 

I towed my maverick (~ 3200 lbs) over 200 miles with no problems. I used my mothers 1985 mark III E150 bone stock drive train . I also towed a bunch of junk from my sisters house when she first bought it . I loaded that dual axel trailor down with a stove , frige , washer bed frame , wood pallets ect.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...lor_junk_1.jpg

 

Well having grown up a California boy, you can see where I got my info, nice link though, thanks, Ken