Stumped, I Need Help
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Senior User
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From: Wanatah In,
Stumped, I Need Help
About a month ago my truck just shut off while going down the road. I was getting no spark. I did some reserch and troubleshooting(thanks to fordfuelinjection.com). I narrowed it down to the computer, Ok so I sent the computer to be refurbed, It now throws a couple of temp sensor codes but the truck still has no spark. I have been chasing voltages all day today and replaced the starter switch and it did jump a couple of times like it may have been trying to fire on one cylinder, but it seemed the pip pulse was very sporatic and few and far between. So I replaced the pickup sensor in the distributor and still have no spark. The TFI module checked out good several times at the part store and the coil looked good when I checked it with my ohmeter. I have looked at the wiring diagram over and over. what else is there to check? So far Ive replaced
ECM
Starter Switch
Magnetic Pickup
Could the coil or module still be bad even though they appear to test good. I have looked at connections and everything looks good and clean.
Thanks
Stumped Steve
ECM
Starter Switch
Magnetic Pickup
Could the coil or module still be bad even though they appear to test good. I have looked at connections and everything looks good and clean.
Thanks
Stumped Steve
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From: Wanatah In,
I believe I am getting fuel, the pumps are running. Even if Im not there isnt any spark to ignite it lol. I may take a trip to the salvage yard and grab a couple coils and modules and start swapping stuff.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
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From: Ashland City, TN
Ya. if you fry fusable link, then you need to replace it.
If you find yoru fusable link and it feels really brittle, like its soft or broken, then its not any good.
They should be really bendy and playfull.
you sure your distributor didn't get rotated?
If you find yoru fusable link and it feels really brittle, like its soft or broken, then its not any good.
They should be really bendy and playfull.
you sure your distributor didn't get rotated?
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From: Wanatah In,
I made sure to mark it so I would get it back in exactly the way I took it out, the roll pin for the gear wasnt sheared. I'll take a closer look at my fusable links, I seem to be getting voltage to everything but you never know. I may just stop by the part store and grab a coil since its cold and wet out . I'll post results.
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The ignition should be independent of the computer. What truck are you working on?
If it is a diesel it doesnt need to spark.
If it is a diesel it doesnt need to spark.
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From: Wanatah In,
Sorry I should have stated that origionally. Its a 94 f150 w/4.9 e4od. The only reason I replaced the computer is because I tested it acording to some instructions I had and it was no go, Incomplete intelegence I guess, lol. It was my intention to not throw parts at it but it looks like it turned out that way. 
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From: Wanatah In,
Well I replaced the coil and I have two extra good testing modules and I still have no spark. So far I have replaced
Ignition switch
Coil
Ignition Module
Magnetic Pickup
ECM
The ecm is throwing codes:
114 ACT sensor is out of self test
116 ECT sensor is out of self test
636 Transmission oil temp sensor out of self test range
I am suspicious of of the fact that all of these codes happen to be temp gauge codes? they wer'nt there before I replaced the computer. I have checked the fusable links over on the passanger fender near the starter soloniod and they seem plyable and dont appear to be burned. Are there more fusable links on the truck Im not aware of?
Right now I guess I will go check connections again
Ignition switch
Coil
Ignition Module
Magnetic Pickup
ECM
The ecm is throwing codes:
114 ACT sensor is out of self test
116 ECT sensor is out of self test
636 Transmission oil temp sensor out of self test range
I am suspicious of of the fact that all of these codes happen to be temp gauge codes? they wer'nt there before I replaced the computer. I have checked the fusable links over on the passanger fender near the starter soloniod and they seem plyable and dont appear to be burned. Are there more fusable links on the truck Im not aware of?
Right now I guess I will go check connections again
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From: brooksville, florida
you can check fusable links by putting metal pin or sowing needles in the wire before and after the link then check with a multimeter set on ohms and see if you have continuity between the two pins.
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From: Wanatah In,
I checked the fusable links and I am getting .1ohms on both of them so I can rule them out as the culprit, is there any wires in the steering columb that are prone to breaking/shorting? I havent blown any fuses. 
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The codes mean the truck isn't warmed up. The KOEO test is intended to be run with the engine warmed up. If you run it anyway, with a cold engine, especially in cold weather, you can expect to get codes like this. The computer is complaining "hey, the engine and trans aren't warmed up" as in "out of self test range". It is possible your new computer has somewhat different software and is more picky than the old one. It is also possible the weather has gotten colder since you started on this project.
In your defense, you can't run the test with the engine warm, because the engine won't start.
The computer has nothing to do with spark during starting. The TFI can make spark on its own. To make sure, try removing the SPOUT jumper. See if it will start.
You need a voltmeter. With the key on, but not in crank, check each side of the coil to ground. Both sides should indicate 12 volts. Check the TFI connector. Are you getting 12 volts to the TFI? Check your grounds. Battery, frame, engine, chassis. Make sure they are all clean.
The shield wire surrounding the PIP & SPOUT wires has been known to chafe the wiring and short circuit inside the harness. This may be you problem since you've replaced everything else.
In your defense, you can't run the test with the engine warm, because the engine won't start.
The computer has nothing to do with spark during starting. The TFI can make spark on its own. To make sure, try removing the SPOUT jumper. See if it will start.
You need a voltmeter. With the key on, but not in crank, check each side of the coil to ground. Both sides should indicate 12 volts. Check the TFI connector. Are you getting 12 volts to the TFI? Check your grounds. Battery, frame, engine, chassis. Make sure they are all clean.
The shield wire surrounding the PIP & SPOUT wires has been known to chafe the wiring and short circuit inside the harness. This may be you problem since you've replaced everything else.
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From: Wanatah In,
I finally tore the whole harness apart and found a wire junction that was barely connected red/green(hot) beneath the under hood fuse box . it would show 12 volts with the meter but there wasnt enough connection to hold any current. I cut and soldered all of the wires at the junction and it fired right up. It appears that the harness was damaged at the factory and just took years for the wires to corrode through.
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