I need help on getting my 1955 (EBV) 239 Y-block started in my 1954 F-100. I bought the motor from a shop that replaced the motor with a 302 in a 1955 F-100. They said that the motor was rebuilt not too long ago. When I took off the valve covers, the valve train and inside of the covers were perfectly clean. But I have my doubts, because the paint on the engine is pretty old. After battling over an incorrectly laid out wiring harness from one of the major catalog houses, I finally was ready to fire it up. The engine turned over nicely, but made no attempt to start. I looked down the throat of the carburator, and decided that the carb needed rebuilding. So I rebuilt it, and now it squirts gas nicely. Well that didn't help. So I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, points, condensor, wires,and plugs. I checked the ignition timing by taking out the #1 spark plug on the right front of the motor, with the valve cover off and proceeded to turn the crank clockwise until the timing mark lined up with the indicator with the piston up and both valves closed. I then hooked up a neon timing light, and turned the distributor (the rotor was pointed near the #1 terminal) until the timing light flashed. Now I have gas and a correct spark. The 6 volt battery is also new.
So I squirted a very little amount of gas down the carb, since it had been a while since I last attempted to start the motor and turned it over. It spit a little, but otherwise made no attempt to start. I squirted starting fluid down the carb. No change. I checked the compression with the engine (naturally) stone cold, and I got readings of 45 to 60 PSI dry and 60 to 70 PSI with oil squirted down the cylinders. OK, that's low, but the engine is cold. I also noticed that after my second attempt to start the motor, the plugs were wet in all cylinders except # 3 and 4, which were perfectly white.
I need your suggestions on what to do next. I am totally stumped!

 

Just a thought but have you checked your coil and or replaced it with a new one or one you know to be good?
Second, you mentioned an incorect wiring harness, check to see that you are getting power to the hot side of the coil.
Third, check for a broken wire from the coil to the dizzy.

Hope this helps

Bubba

 

Is your timing set on the compression stroke?
Get a helper or a remote starter cable. Spin the motor over and put a finger over the plug hole. You will feel the pressure on compression.

Also a 6V positive ground will have wiring reversed to the coil as compared to negative ground. A wrong hookup will severely reduce the spark.

 

is that the right facing the engine, or the right
while sitting in the drivers seat??

SteveL

 

Thanks for getting back to me. The coil seems to be good and correctly wired. The wiring harness is new, with no cracked wires. I assume that the #1 cylinder is on the front passenger side of the motor; Right? The suggestion (from 286merc) that I have to double check, is the compression stroke. I was turning the engine with a socket wrench. I watched the exhaust valve open as the piston came up, and then I watched the intake valve open as the piston went down. Then the piston came up again and both valves were closed and the timing mark lined up with the pointer. That should be the compression stroke, right?
I will also double check my wiring again. But I got a good joult from the spark plug wire when I was setting the timing!
Can anyone explain why the plugs in cylinders 3 and 4 are perfectly dry and clean while the others were soaked with gas? Could my starting problem be caused by a vacuum leak in the intake manifold gasket?

 

hello, you find out why you don't have any compression and you'll find out why it won't start. cam could be out of time with the crank or the valves could be set too tight. hope this helps, wayne.

 

Yes, #1 is on the passenger side left and that side is 1 to 4 with #5 starting on the other side front. Distributor turns CCW.
It is very easy to get a tooth off and be firing way too early or late.

Also as just mentioned, if someone has the lifters cranked down it aint gonna start either; many owners believe that the Y has hydraulic lifters. No open valve no get gas on plugs. Set them a bit over .019 cold and you can fine tune once its running and warmed up. See my post on a thread below on a way to set them without the engine running. You can also remove all the plugs and feel every cylinder for compression.

Getting back to the compression stroke. Do it the easy way. Have someone crank it over while you got your finger over #1 hole. Do it enough times untill you got the rythm. Then put a non metallic rod down and set TDC exact with the socket. Now remove the dizzy cap and see if the points & rotor are really in #1 firing position.

You might also ask that shop if they ever saw the engine running.

 

I think I am going to start with gapping the valves. That may explain why #3 and #4 cylinders have "virgin" spark plugs. Then if that doesn't work I will reset the timing. But am I looking for TDC or just a compression stroke and align the timing mark to the indicator before I open up the distributor? I wouldn't bother to ask the shop if it ran. They already lied to me when they sold it on Ebay to me as a 272!

 

Compression seems low, but it still should run, let me tell you a secret some folks overlook, make sure you aren't using a resistor spark plug, the way to tell, is look at your plugs and if any R is part of the numbers, then get non resistor plugs for that system!! Next thing to do, just pull any plug wire and take any spark plug from anything you hvave laying around, and turn over your engine and look to see if you see a spark, lay it on top of the valve cover, if you have spark, you want blue spark, as yellow spark, will make an engine fairly run on some, but a blue spark is necessary for a good fireup!!, Now if we determine we have spark plus fuel and your plugs are not too wet meaning (fuel fouled), next step other than setting those tappets to make sure all valves are closing all the way on compression stroke, plus your 019 cold setting, if that fails and tappets are set, plus fuel .plus blue spark, then TIMING!!!...Good luck...I'll check you back tomorrow, also to help in getting it to fire on up. go ahead and set the points for now on about 010, the thivckness of a paper business card works perfect!!, they alreay told you to use a test light on the fire side of your primary on your coil, so get back with me my friend, and we will make it work, also take into account what 'YALINCOLN2" user told you a few post above, i read these, and even though wayne 9yalincoln2 has a short post, that has more value than a whole page, my experience makes me notice real pro type folks....Janet

 

The compression numbers are dismal. Sorry. If you have adjusted the valve lash there is not much else to do but a tear down. The cam could be mistimed, the valves not seating, the rings shot, etc. Pull the engine and find out the problem. Otherwise it is time wasted.

 

Yep, compression is well, not so good, but after making sure the tappets are letting the vavles close and not just screwed down on compression stroke, after my things i mentioned, looks like a tear down issue to me really from what i've seen....Janet

 

I re read your first post and it says that the plugs are fuel foulled. Have you blasted clean or replaced the plugs? it will never fire on fuel foulled plugs.

Kevin bigwin

 

I use new Champion 860's and have beadblasted the fuel fouled ones. I will check the spark color as soon as I can get back to working on it. I don't have very much free time on my hands to work on my truck. The fire side of the distributor would be marked as what? "Dist"?
I also have to check if the carb is just draining into the engine, and fouling the plugs.

 

The fire side of the coil would have a plus mark on it, or be the wire that goes to your distributor. If you want the best luck on plugs, use autolite plugs, and if they are resistor type plugs, be sure and use a ballast resistor between the ignotion and the minus mark on the coil. your plugs may be fouling simply because your running to rich, make sure your air idle mixture screws are set uot to where you engine runs its fastest, and watch your choke...Janet

 

I have my idle mixture screws turned out 1-1/2 turns, which from what I remember is the basic starting point when you rebuild the carburator. Is that correct?