When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The Cab mounts were replaced about two years ago, followed a year after by the rag joint (steering coupler) linking the column to the input shaft on the steering box.
The truck doesn't see much activity, less than 2000miles since the replacement, and it's already blown out again.
Now these aren't exactly the easiest of parts to find, so before I replace it again, I wondering what caused the last one to blow out. Like I said, the cab mounts are solid, so what else? Steering column bearings?
sounds like you have an alignment issue. remove the rag joint and let the steering column slide down and meet the yoke on the box. if the holes will line up, then it is aligned properly. if the holes dont line up, try loosening the plate at the fire wall and moving the column till they do. once you get them aligned then replace the ragjoint and hope you got a good one. make sure you dont have the column slid down to far, or up too far, this puts a lot of strain on the rag joint.
i have seen some rag joints that were not worth the trouble to put in, very cheaply made. make sure the new one is a good one, lots of reinforceing fiber is the main thing to watch for.
rag joints are 2 dollars at auto zone, they have them in the help section. and jimbare is right, it is an alighment issue. i usually when rehanging a steering box set it down slowly with all the mounting bolts loose. then work the wheel a little to get it to seat proper, then slowly start tighting the bolts. slowly until all tight at same time. this solved my steering problem and i quit tearing up gear boxes and rag joints on my 70
I bought one of those el-cheapo Help rag joints from O'Riellys.
Never again. It is much thinner than the original, has no metal mesh reinforcement, and the alignment pins are pot metal.
Get a good one from: http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/
Thanks for the input guys, when I put the new one in, I'll re-align the column. I'm guessing when the cab went back on, it wasn't aligned properly.
I've got a couple of new Ford originals coming from Ohio. I'm a little learly about using generic parts store ones, as this is one part that you really don't want failing on you when your on the highway.
After pulling the old joint, it looks like the column bearings are gone. There's a good 1-1.5" of side to side play in the column shaft, almost is if there is no lower bearing at all.
i need to do something with mine also, i plan on doing it next year sometime when i take the whole truck apart
That's what I'm in the process of doing, but parts are sure hard to find here in BC.
I did go and check out a "universal" rag-joint, and I'll wait for my original Ford pieces to show up. Looking at it, I certainly wouldn't feel comfortable with that piece in my truck, heck the sole off of my work boots would work better than that.
My experience has been that the most critical adjustment is the in-and-out adjustment, not the side-to-side. The rag joint should be basically flat when it is adjusted right. If the rag joint is bowed, you will go through them in a year, not to mention they are at a mechanical disadvantage and are unsafe. The only way I've learned to adjust them in-and-out, is through trial and error. I will set the bottom bearing retainer clamp in a given position against the lower bearing, then tighten the steering wheel nut. If the rag joint is not flat, or if the gap is wrong under the steering wheeel, I will go back in and move the bearing clamp appropriately. When I get that close, then and only then, will I tweak the adjustment with the steering column. Try that. It's a pain, but it is worth it in the long run.
My experience has been that the most critical adjustment is the in-and-out adjustment, not the side-to-side. The rag joint should be basically flat when it is adjusted right. If the rag joint is bowed, you will go through them in a year, not to mention they are at a mechanical disadvantage and are unsafe.
The one I just got from National Parts depot has a piece of metal running across the joint between the locating pins. You can't put it on the shaft too far. The original didn't have that.
I just received new upper and lower bearings, sleeves (to center the bearings on the steering shaft) and thrust washers and spacer from Dennis Carpenter.
Very reasonable and delivered within three working days. Good Luck.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.