gutting the ebpv
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Elder User
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gutting the ebpv
I Am puting a BB turbo on tomorrow and I am gutting the ebpv I already installed a 1/4 inch pipe plug in the hole where the rod comes out,Do I have to put the piston and spring back in? What do I do to plug the holes left in the turbo after i take the flapper out? Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
When you say "piston and spring", I'm assuming you're talking about the activating rod. You can just leave it disconnected, lying on the engine. Of course, be sure you've disconnected the two-wire harness at the front of the turbo that controls the rod. With that done you should be good to go.
Didn't the pipe plug go into the hole left from the butterfly valve? Are we talking about something different? I'm confused.
What do I do to plug the holes left in the turbo after i take the flapper out?
I already installed a 1/4 inch pipe plug in the hole where the rod comes out
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Elder User
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I took the rod and piston out of the aluminum ebpv housing then installed the plug where the actuator rod come through, because i read somewhere if you let it hang it will start to leak over time. I was gonna cut the rod off the piston and install the piston and spring back in the housing is this right?And i planned on leaving it unplugged. thanks And PM sent Rooster
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Phx, AZ
Opens up the exhaust 20-23% which means cooler EGT's and better airflow in and out.
The only down side is it takes about 3-5 minutes longer to get warm air in the cab of the truck first thing in the morning.
The only down side is it takes about 3-5 minutes longer to get warm air in the cab of the truck first thing in the morning.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Phx, AZ
Jesse,
Something else I did was, on the pedistal I cut the actuator arm off then removed the back of the cylinder and completely gutted the actuator assembly to avoid any leaking. Taped the hole where the actuator arm is with a 1/4 pipe thread and used a pipe plug to "plug the hole". Put the back in place and the snap ring. Walla pedistal no leaky. You can also purchase a pedistal from the dealership without the actuator arm and assembly for about 200.00. I just found it easier to modify the existing pedistal.
Fire Rooster
Something else I did was, on the pedistal I cut the actuator arm off then removed the back of the cylinder and completely gutted the actuator assembly to avoid any leaking. Taped the hole where the actuator arm is with a 1/4 pipe thread and used a pipe plug to "plug the hole". Put the back in place and the snap ring. Walla pedistal no leaky. You can also purchase a pedistal from the dealership without the actuator arm and assembly for about 200.00. I just found it easier to modify the existing pedistal.
Fire Rooster
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Nelson, BC, Canada
Wow! If it means that much of a drop in EGT's, then I am in. I can live with the 3-5 minutes extra for the warm air. Thanks for the info!!!
Is the process of how to do this properly outlined in a thread here somewhere?
Is the process of how to do this properly outlined in a thread here somewhere?
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I finished up today heres what i did. I removed the piston from the pedistal cut about 2 inches off the rod, tapped the hole in the pedistal and installed a 1/4 inch pipe plug. I decided to reinstall the piston because there are three different Holes in the bore two on one side of the piston and one on the backside, I belive the one on the backside is just a drain to remove any oil that gets past the piston, But I am not sure so i put the piston in, Its not like it can move anyway. Then on the turbo outlet I gutted the butterfly and rod. I then tapped the hole with a 1/2 inch tap and installed a bolt that was recessed about a 1/4 looking from inside the outlet I then welded the bolt to the bushing on the inside of the housing. I then took the die grinder to the weld and contoured it to match. It came out so good it made the bushing on the otherside look bad so I drilled it and tapped it just like the other side. After both bolts were welded up. I used a flapper wheel in my drill press to polish the inside of the outlet. It came out perfect looking in from the outlet you would never know the EBPV was ever there. I will try to put some pics of it in my gallery tommorow
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: colorado
Originally Posted by HeatStroked
Dennis at ITP offers the Garrett EBPV housing that has no holes for the valve. Just a solid housing.
FireRooster and I spent a long morning installing it on our PSD's.
FireRooster and I spent a long morning installing it on our PSD's.