Pinion Seal Replacement
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From: Dallas GA
Pinion Seal Replacement
Hey Guys:
I have been doing a lot of reading and a little posting here and there since joining. The informaion I have gained is invalueable.
But it looks like now its my turn for a topic. 
I have searched the forums on this topic and found little on the subject of Pinion Seal Replacement. I have done a few others on 9" Ford rears but this is the first one on a Superduty. 
The truck is a 2000 PSD Extended Cab 2WD with a Posi rear and 79K miles. I would like to know if possible what the rear is (DANA 80?) and the Torque Spec for tightening the pinion nut. The leak apparently has been there for a while (I have owned the truck 2.5 months) and is not too bad. But, I would like to fix it before it crapps out.
Thanks!
DEAN
I have been doing a lot of reading and a little posting here and there since joining. The informaion I have gained is invalueable.
But it looks like now its my turn for a topic. I have searched the forums on this topic and found little on the subject of Pinion Seal Replacement. I have done a few others on 9" Ford rears but this is the first one on a Superduty. The truck is a 2000 PSD Extended Cab 2WD with a Posi rear and 79K miles. I would like to know if possible what the rear is (DANA 80?) and the Torque Spec for tightening the pinion nut. The leak apparently has been there for a while (I have owned the truck 2.5 months) and is not too bad. But, I would like to fix it before it crapps out.
Thanks!
DEAN
Last edited by doc526; Nov 24, 2004 at 12:50 PM.
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From: Albuquerque NM
More than likely if it is a single rear wheel it is a ford 10.50 rear end. If you can get us the numbers off the tag on the rear end we can tell you for sure. If it is a 10.50 you will need to replace the crush sleeve a pinion nut when you replace the seal.
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From: Albuquerque NM
Originally Posted by doc526
As promised, here are the numbers on the tag of the rear end of my truck.
1st row: S 409 F
2nd row: 73 10 5 9 MO6
Hope this helps.
Much thanks
DEAN
1st row: S 409 F
2nd row: 73 10 5 9 MO6
Hope this helps.
Much thanks
DEAN
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From: Dallas GA
Thanks. 
I went back to check and apparently the 3 is covered by the cover retai ning nut. I do know however that it is a 3:73 by the window sticker that the original owner kept in the truck. I really appreciate the help and have a Happy Thanksgiving.
Dean
I went back to check and apparently the 3 is covered by the cover retai ning nut. I do know however that it is a 3:73 by the window sticker that the original owner kept in the truck. I really appreciate the help and have a Happy Thanksgiving.
Dean
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Just wondering why real hp says to replace the crush sleeve. If the old one isn't over crushed then it is reuseable. A new crush sleeve is extremely hard to crush unless you have a good press and then you might over crush it. All that needs to be done is replace the seal if no noise or other damage is done. Tighten the nut until all the movement is taken out of the yoke. 15 inch pounds of rotating torque is usually good.
J Marr
J Marr
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From: Albuquerque NM
Originally Posted by j-marr1
Just wondering why real hp says to replace the crush sleeve. If the old one isn't over crushed then it is reuseable. A new crush sleeve is extremely hard to crush unless you have a good press and then you might over crush it. All that needs to be done is replace the seal if no noise or other damage is done. Tighten the nut until all the movement is taken out of the yoke. 15 inch pounds of rotating torque is usually good.
J Marr
J Marr
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From: Ripley NY
I have the same leak problem that you have and need to replace the seal also. My truck is a 99 f-350 dually so I am not sure if I can us ethe same procedure or not but I asked the stealership and they wanted $345.00 to change it out. That sounds kinda steep to me. Is my diff set-up different being a dually? I forgot to add that this truck was originally ordered with the 3:73 ratio.
Last edited by celjel; Nov 26, 2004 at 06:22 AM. Reason: for got to add.
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From: Albuquerque NM
Get me the numbers off your tag on the rear end and I can tell you what rear end you have. I also have a DRW 99 f 350 with a Dana 80 and have replaced the seal with no issue. If it is a Dana 80 you will need a torque wrench that can torque the pinion nut too 450flbs after you replace the seal, the Dana's on fords do not use a crush sleeve.
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From: Jersey Shore Area
Bronco pinion bearing preload
Here's some useful info I found on the web for your pinion bearing preload values:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...nion_setup.htm
And here's a site with the cheapest inch/pound torque wrech I could find. I decided on the needle type, since guessing the value with a click wrench could be iffy.
http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?p...ajor=6&minor=6
If you're only doing the seal, I recommend not only measuring the value before removing the nut, but also measure the stem to nut depth, and put it back the way you found it !! Assuming no parts are bad, you should be able to preload the bearing fairly easily, since you know how deep the nut goes, and what the preload was before starting.
Hope it helps - JerseyDevil
PS - I'm about to purchase a used rear from the junkyard and rebuild it since it would only cost half as much to do it myself and I would replace twice the parts. In the process, I'll upgrade from limited slip to full posi.I prefer doing the job myself since finding somebody competent may be the most difficult job there is! Not my first choice, but probably the best.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...nion_setup.htm
And here's a site with the cheapest inch/pound torque wrech I could find. I decided on the needle type, since guessing the value with a click wrench could be iffy.
http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?p...ajor=6&minor=6
If you're only doing the seal, I recommend not only measuring the value before removing the nut, but also measure the stem to nut depth, and put it back the way you found it !! Assuming no parts are bad, you should be able to preload the bearing fairly easily, since you know how deep the nut goes, and what the preload was before starting.
Hope it helps - JerseyDevil
PS - I'm about to purchase a used rear from the junkyard and rebuild it since it would only cost half as much to do it myself and I would replace twice the parts. In the process, I'll upgrade from limited slip to full posi.I prefer doing the job myself since finding somebody competent may be the most difficult job there is! Not my first choice, but probably the best.
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