quick dizzy question but need answers
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quick dizzy question but need answers
OK I was checking my timing and took off my dizzy cap and noticed that the vacuum plate< I think that's the term>, was kinda loose and rocked back and forth in a twisting motion. it moves smothly with vacuum. I was windering if the extra movement could be my erratic idle and poor mpg culprit. If I haven't described the movement good enough I'll try again. Again my dizzy is breackerless it has a magnetic pickup. OK I have cap off and looking at the magnetic pick-up I put my thumb on it and gently pry up. It goes up easily
Post Fiend
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From: Eastern WA
If somehow your timing is floating/drifting at idle that will lead to a wandering idle speed. On the other hand, usually there is no vacuum on a vacuum advance at idle. Should the vacuum advance be unable to advance timing properly during driving (cruise), the retarded timing will lower gas mileage. The plates I've seen simply rotate when vacuum is applied. The pointer he is, does the loosness you describe allow the timing to change above and beyond what the vacuum advance should be doing.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Nov 24, 2004 at 11:52 AM.
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when my truck is idling i can see my advance moveing around trying to keep it running. my idle jumps and chugs between 1-250 rpms. the stator plate( i found the correct term) wiggles around in a up down motion also. shouldn't this be held flat??? do I need to rebuild my dizzy??
Mountain Pass
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I wouldn't worry about the up-and-down motion.
As Cowboy says, if the ignition timing is not wandering, the plates not bothering anything.
Put a timing light on it, and look to see if the timing is steady at idle.
It's more likely to be other things lowering your MPG than the timing advance, in a 1988 truck. I had one of these for 12 years, and 200K miles.
How many miles on the truck?
Might be time to check the compression, or the catalytic converter, or a number of other things.
Check out what the timing's actually doing, with a timing light, and if it hold steady at idle, you've got other things to check out.
As Cowboy says, if the ignition timing is not wandering, the plates not bothering anything.
Put a timing light on it, and look to see if the timing is steady at idle.
It's more likely to be other things lowering your MPG than the timing advance, in a 1988 truck. I had one of these for 12 years, and 200K miles.
How many miles on the truck?
Might be time to check the compression, or the catalytic converter, or a number of other things.
Check out what the timing's actually doing, with a timing light, and if it hold steady at idle, you've got other things to check out.
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also does anyone have an 88 ranger with a 2.0L that runs smooth?? do you have a pic of your dizzy vacuum line and where it's hooked up at?? a friend and I spent a long time trying to figure out the vac diagram and ....well let's just say that it's not right yet. but when I was looking at my dizzy I noticed the wiggle
Post Fiend
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From: Eastern WA
Timing should be steady at idle and smoothly advance as you increase engine speed. A rapid opening of the throttle should show a fairly quick advance in timing. You'd need to check with a service manual, but I'd expect that the vacuum advance hose should be removed along with some electrical connection. Not exactly sure on your model though.
On edit: I have yet to see a vacuum advance setup with full vacuum applied to it at idle. Normally, the vacuum is ported on the carburetor and begins to be gradually applied as the throttle is opened. Some vehicles restrict/do not allow vacuum advance until the engine reaches a certain operating temperature via a temperature sensor.
On edit: I have yet to see a vacuum advance setup with full vacuum applied to it at idle. Normally, the vacuum is ported on the carburetor and begins to be gradually applied as the throttle is opened. Some vehicles restrict/do not allow vacuum advance until the engine reaches a certain operating temperature via a temperature sensor.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Nov 24, 2004 at 12:03 PM.
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i think it has 116k miles on it. I rebuilt the carb (asian 2bbl) adjusted the float level. it starts with a flick of the key most of the time. and sometimes I have to crank it a cpl times.
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I do have vac at idle to dizzy I guess I have it hooked up in wrong port. I'm running dura spark breakerless dizzy. Asian 2bbl carb. can anyone tell me what port I need to plug dizzy into??
cowboy--- thanks for quick response. how is roof holding up??
ms -- thank you too.
it takes me a while to put words into a picture in my mind.
cowboy--- thanks for quick response. how is roof holding up??
ms -- thank you too.
it takes me a while to put words into a picture in my mind.
Post Fiend
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From: Eastern WA
With the engine running, look for a port on the carb that has no vacuum at idle and has vacuum when the throttle is opening. You don't need to crack the throttle much; reving to maybe 1500 rpm will tell you you've found it. A cheap gauge will make searching easier, but your finger on the end of a hose will also work. I"m not familiar with your distributor; I have to wonder if it's different from OEM and had a special/unique installation proceedure.
Roof is doing great and will be like that for the next 30 years. It was installed by me
.
Roof is doing great and will be like that for the next 30 years. It was installed by me
.
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I have three vacuum trees (I call them that) on the bottom of my intake manifold. they have 2 ports on front 4 ports on middle and 3 ports on rear. I have my dizzy hooked into the second from bottom port on middle tree. this weekend I will check for no vac at idle. Could I pull the vac line off when idle and mtr shouldn't show a diff right??
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if so here is my vac diagram.http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800f8e94.jsp
look for 88 2.0L
look for 88 2.0L
Post Fiend
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From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by 88blkranger
Could I pull the vac line off when idle and mtr shouldn't show a diff right??
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Ok I guess I need to buy new vac lines and go through the system and replace the old with new and make doubly sure that I have no vac leaks. am I right in the thought of vac leak lead to bad idle and mpg??