Did you reset the puter by disconnecting the neg battery cable after any or all of the repairs?

Just a thought!

 

yes reset it after every repair with my obd-II.
the vac. line didn't fit, factory line is prebent
how on earth do you get the fuel filter out of it's fittings? there must be a tool for $69.95 only available at the ford dealer that i need in order to replace my eight dollar fuel filter. am i missing something or can i make the tool on my lathe?

 

Never much cared for autozone, but I think you can borrow or rent the tool for the filter from them. Not sure if the other parts distributors have tools for loan or not. Hope this helps!

 

ok got the filter replaced, no change
i got fed up and took it to a mechanic.
he called to say he wanted to replace the coil pack.
i told him i had replaced it already with one from advance auto
he said they were often no good, and that he would replace it with a genuine ford one.
i called him a liar and said i would be by to pick up my truck.
could he be telling the truth?
he said there were misfire codes on bank one and a lean code that could be caused by the misfire, wanted to replace the coil pack and then check again.

any opinions?

 

I'm having the same issue. except on cylinders 1 and 4. if you guys need the codes, I scanned the book and posted it on my site: http://arawn.com/mytruck/tech

 

so i went to get the truck and the mechanic said he would try a new coil at no risk to me, he put it in and produced one of my bosch plugs missing it's entire electrode.
replaced that one plug and now it runs, sold me the set of motorcraft plugs to put in myself. i didn't replace the coil pack and plugs at the same time, maybe i killed the coil with bad plugs twice?

 

Ford engines are tricky beasts...anything other than Motorcraft wires and plug (sometimes Autolites, if your lucky) will be burned up within a couple thousand miles or so. From what I understand, the ignitions are quite a bit hotter than say Chevrolet or Dodge. I ruined many a plug/wire set before I stopped believing the guys at the local Autozone on this one...

 

new question - how does one disconnect the egr pipe in order to remove the upper manifold? it won't slip out of the manifold, and the dipstick seems to have a mounting screw captured on the block so i can't get the egr pipe mounting bracket off. i have a vacuum leak and need to put on a new upper intake gasket.

 

The EGR tube runs kinda deep into the upper intake, and it's hard to wiggle it up and off because of that, but it's doable. Here's what the EGR tube looks like after I took off my upper intake without unbolting the tube:



Also, click here:

Replacing Ford 4.0L (OHV) Upper Engine Gaskets

 

1000 thank you's! i didn't want to pull on the manifold that hard not knowing if i was doing the right thing, but today i squirted a little soap on the fitting and it popped loose and wiggled free. got some new gaskets in, all took almost 2 hrs, and she seems to be running like a top!
i'm starting to understand these modern engines a little better, i'm into bikes and old cars and they don't have half the crap to go wrong!

 

Hello Once again.
I wanted to give an update to my ongoing dilema of the misfire madness.
Once again, I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with about 132K miles on it. I have had a PO306 trouble code which stands for a cylinder 6 misfire. I have performed the following as of now
1. Replaced the spark plugs
2. Replaced the spark plug wires
3. Replaced the fuel filter
4. Serviced the Fuel Injectors (Please Use Marren, they are great!)
5. Replaced the Coil Pack
6. Replaced the Battery
I went to the extent of purchasing an Auto Xray2000 OBDI &II code reader. I just checked the codes in my Ranger yesterday, instead of the PO306 code, I am now getting a PO305 (Number 5 misfire) I am leaning toward replacing either my cam timing sensor, or replacement of the EGR valve and gasket. Has anyone ever had this occur on their Ranger, please let me know, I am running out of patience and money.

Thanks to all
Tery

 

I would stop throwing good money after bad at this point and take it to somone who knows more than me..

 

None of the plug wires are crossing over each other, right?

Did you feel the misfire? Did it happen under load?

 

Well Terry lets review what you've done on the ignition system, that might have changed things since you first got the P0306 code, which is now gone & replaced with a P0305 code.

Plugs, Wires & Coilpack.

Could be any one of the three IMHO.

Could be a cracked or chipped insulator on the inside or outside of #5 plug.

Could be a bad plug wire, just because it's new does't make it good. I've seen plenty of new things bad right out of the box!!!!

Guy over on the MotorWeek forum got a bad plug wire right out of the box. Wasn't even crimped to the conductor, on the plug end, it fell off when he pulled it for a resistance check. when the engine ran worse after the new plugs & wires were installed.

Resistance should be about 1000 ohms per inch of length, 30,000 ohms max, if you want to check it. Flex it at the connectors on both ends, readings should be steady, not jerkig around when moved.

Could be the coil pack, but IMHO it's less likely than a bad plug or plug wire.

If you don't have a multimeter and as #5 was working ok before, you could try swapping out the new #5 plug wire, for the old #5 one & see if the misfire code clears. If so, suspect the new #5 plug wire.

If that doesn't do anything, try pulling the new #5 plug & carefully nspecting it for damaged insulators, inside & out.
If that shows nothing, try swapping out the new #5 plug for the old one & see if that clears the code.

If that doesn't prove out, try swapping out the new coil pack for the old one.

If #5 code clears, but #6 returns, wih the old coil pack, then both coil packs are likely bad.

If that proves out, then I know whre you can get a good .357 to shoot both those suckers with LOL.

 

Well Hello it's been quite a while since I've e-mailed. I wanted to give the news as to my dilema. As you may have read, I had an continuing problem with my 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0L XLT. As I informed everyone I was getting very bad lugging and the CEL light would come on. I purchased a Code Reader to see what the problem was and I had a Misfire in #6 cylinder (PO306). Well I finally did get the truck into the garage. What I had was the engine ran hot, but did not overheat last summer while I was in the infamous (TREX) debacle in Denver, Co. Since the heads are aluminum they were damaged by the heat. To make a long story short (5,400.00) for a new engine at 136000 miles and the truck runs like a new truck. I blew the head gasket, my valves were toast on the number 5,6,2,3 Cylinders. So please, if ever have run your vehicle hot, but not to the point of triggering the CEL, and if it's not running correctly, don't wait like I did, When I brought the truck to the garage, I was basically running of 4 cylinders and irritating over half the state of Colorado by hitting a top speed of 58 MPH, between Denver and Loveland Colorado on both I-25 and CO 287, at rush hour no less. Then please take it to a qualified shop and have them take a look at your cylinder heads. It may mean the difference between valve job and gaskets (1,900.00) or the whole enchilada (5,400.00) This also includes the $ 850.00 for new tires and $ 170.00 for a new windshield. I would like to thank all of you for your help in trying to find the problem with me over the last 8 months. My Truck is in great shape body wise as well as running gear. This and the fact that I really like this truck is the reason I replaced the motor. You will hear more from me as I work on this project. Next for this one will be 3 Inch Body Lift, Nitrous Oxide Injection and or Under the hood supercharger. (If I'm gonna have this for a little while, I might as well modify it to my liking)