I knew the C6 in my 2WD 1977 F250 was on its last legs, then I spun a carrier bearing the other night (rubber bushing just disintegrated). After a short trailer ride behind my International, the F250 was in my shop. We pulled the driveline and carrier bearing.

Tonight, we got a little done on pulling the transmission. Until now, I never noticed that the 351M (according to the VIN; it's been overhauled, so I'm only assuming it's still a 351M) is not centered, but actually offset a bit to the right.

We've pulled starter, torque converter bolts, most of the trans-to-engine bolts, speedo cable and shift linkage. I've pulled a couple of bolts from the forward crossmember. I realize we still have to pull a vacuum line, a backup light wire, the cooler lines, then drain what we can from the transmission.

It looks like both crossmembers under the transmission should be removed, and my Chilton's confirms that. But there's nothing in the Chilton's about supporting the engine. Will that engine balance on the engine mounts? The do seem to be more or less centered for fore & aft positioning. I intend to remove the transmission, the roll the truck out of the shop so I can do another job while waiting for the rebuild.

My friend is just sure we have to use a transmission jack. I don't have one, and do not like borrowing other people's expensive tools. I've never used a transmission jack. I have a couple of good floor jacks, and lots of wood around the shop to make adapters or pads. Do I really need a transmission jack?

BTW, what does the C6 in that old F250 weigh? My buddy has all sorts of wild ideas of how heavy it is. I don't recall that aluminum case auto transmissions are all that heavy.

I'm just looking for helpful hints and warnings from some experienced Ford guys. This truck has certainly been a learning experience for me.

Oh, and what's the best fluid to use in this 1977 transmission after I get it back? I have been told I can use either Type F or Mercon.

Thanks,

Lane

 

its about 165 lbs dry without the torque converter. so your looking at about 200 lbs total.
if your working off the garage floor you can use some wood blocking with the help of your friend and be fine. but if it's in the air better think safety. it will leave a big mark if it falls out on you.
never used anything but type F so can't help you there.

 

If you don't loosen the exhaust pipes they will hold the engine balanced on the motor mounts while you pull the transmission. All 1977 models used dexron or mercon fluid from the factory. Actually it was called type CJ when the change from type F occurred in May 1976 then a couple of years later Ford admitted it was the same as dexron.

 

We removed one C6 in the driveway with a square piece of 2x12 wood on top of a regular floor jack under the pan. It worked alright. We put a second floor jack under the engine oil pan to stabilize it. With 2 people to guide it down, it was easy.

If you prefer a tranny jack, Harbor Freight Tools sells a tranny adaptor that fits in the regular floor jack cup hole. It's not too expensive either.

 

I have a install trick, I take a couple of bolts about 4" in length and cut the heads off.
Thread them into the engine block to act as large guide pins to slide the tranny on. Helped me a ton when I put the C6 in my 79250 by myself.

 

Hey that's an excellent idea! One of those that has me scratching my head thinking, 'why didn't I think of that??'. Thanks, Rusty.

 

Its on sale now, $39.99 #39152

 

Hey, thanks for all the help!

I'll get a couple of bolts and make those guide dowels, for sure.

And I'll check out that adapter at Harbor Freight.

The square piece of plywood on the jack sounds more like my past efforts. But a "tranny jack conversion" for my floor jack sounds much more affordable than actually buying a transmission jack.

Happy Thanksgiving Day, my friends!

Lane

 

Much safer too!

Roger

 

I went to Harbor Freight's site last night, and that item number came up "discontinued or not available online." But they did have several different transmission jacks, including a scissors type for $59.99. I don't need the tall ones, because my shop won't have the truck up high on a grease rack/lift.

Hope we're all having a great Thanksgiving.

Lane

 

Hey, let me correct myself. What it really said at Harbor Freight was:

The Specifications for this item are not currently available online, or the item has been discontinued


I just got that by clicking for details on an item that came in a current e-mail ad from them. Oh well, at least I think I can get a cheap trans jack.

Lane

 

Hi Lane;
The Harbor Freight number I posted came from a Flyer I just received, some times they change them for a sale or special.
Try looking at this number: 507-0VGA, it looks about the same.
Roger

 

More info:
#39151 (store # only) fits jack saddle with 1" hole.
507-0VGA fits jack saddle with 1-1/4" hole.
Roger

 

Hey thanks. When I go to the Harbor Freight site that 507-OVGA number comes up with a description and picture. "Shop jack transmission adapter," for $49.99.

Now to go compare specs with their $59.99 transmission jack.

Lane

 

Here's the link to look at the scissors type jack at Harbor Freight. It doesn't appear to have any hydraulics, just a screw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178

It's item number 39178-1VGA

For $59.99 I know it's not very heavy duty, even says "perfect for removing transmissions on smaller vehicles." But it says 450 lb. capacity, and that's better than a two to one safety factor on a C6. Lift range 7¼" to 22½" doesn't seem too bad. I'll give some thought to how it compares with the adapter that goes on the floor jack. I'm going to have the truck on jack stands. I have a concrete floor, but certainly no lift or grease rack like the pro shops.

I'm thinking I can get the tranny OUT with my two floor jacks (and I'll be looking to see if they have 1" or 1¼" holes, in a day or so), but order something and have it here by the time I put the transmission back in.

Lane