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Coleman 5000 watt generator

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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 05:28 PM
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From: Long island NY
Coleman 5000 watt generator

Hey, On the way to school today i saw a generator tossed in the woods, so after school i picked it up. There's no front recoil cover, and the rod is snapped. I'm debating weather to put it back in the trash or rebuild the engine, i'd guess its a 5 or maybe a 8 hp. Is 5000 watts a good amount of power? I was tryig to strip it down and see in the crankcase, but i cant get the rotor off the engine's shaft. Anybody rip one of these apart? dose it thread on or anything?

Thanks
Ryan
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 05:51 PM
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5000 is a good amount of power, it would cost about $450-$550 new
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 07:20 PM
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I paid something like $850 for my Coleman 5kW but it was also one with an overhead valve engine. 5KW will do you some justice; when the power is out it's a good compromise between excessive fuel consumption and not having enough power to run the furnace blower, refrigerator, freezer, some lights, and, in my case just to make the neighbors roll their eyes back in their head when I run the Christmas lights off of it .
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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The price is right, I'd keep it. Which rod is snapped? Small engines are pretty bullet proof. A carb cleaning, new plug and setting the armature gap usually tunes them up. The rotor, (flywheel) comes off with a puller. Other than that, normal hand tools can take the rest of the engine apart. Nice things to have: valve spring compressor, ridge reamer, torque wrench, but I've got by without them. Hey, it's free - take it apart. As long as it doesn't have parts left when you put it back together, it would be hard to lose on your investment.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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the connecing rod from the piston to the crank is broke. i have to get the rotor off the shaft so i can get into the crank to make sure it didnt whack around and kill the clyinder
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 08:15 PM
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Once you get down to the flywheel, there should be a nut that holds it down. There should be a slot on the shaft that takes a key that locks the flywheel to the crankshaft. Once you take that nut off it's just a pressure fit, but it takes a puller to get the flywheel off, in most cases. If it's aluminum, (probably is), you have to be careful with the puller, the flywheels are easy to crack.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 08:34 PM
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The rotor is tapered and not threaded. To get the rotor off you need to fab up a puller. First you need to find a bolt a little shorter than the one you pulled out of the rotor, then cut the head off and cut a slot where the head was (the slot is is so you can use a screwdriver to screw in to the crankshaft). The rotor may have theads and if it does then find a bolt that fits it. If it doesn't then you need to make threads. With the rod you made that is threaded in to the crank, you then thread the new bolt on the rotor, pushing against the rod, which will pop off the rotor. I hope this makes sense, if it doesn't post again and I'll try to clear it up for you.

As for the flywheel, you don't want to use a jaw puller to take it off, it will break. The easiest way to take that off is to put the nut back on the crank then heat the flywheel around the crakshaft and hit the crank with a soft faced hammer (don't hit it too hard or the magnet may loose magenitsim). It should pop right off if you only heated the flywheel.
 

Last edited by StorminMarv; Nov 23, 2004 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 08:52 PM
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The flywheel came off easy, just un do the ratchet and some pursuasive wiggling and it came off. Ill try to make up a puller tomorrow.
 
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