Urgently Need Suggestions on 302 Rebuild...
#32
#33
You need to change the following:
Engine frame bracket and mounts
tranny crossmember
tranny (depeding on year of tranny, you may be able to change the bellhousing alone)
depending on the tranny you use, you may need to find or modify a driveshaft to work
more likely than not you would need to change the radiator
you need all the original accessory brackets for the 390
thats the bulk of it, there are a few odd and end things but they are specific to what year 302 (efi/carb) you currently have.
A 390 can make some great hp and tq if done right, might wanna try the FE section for more specific answers as to what the 390 is capable of and how to get there. Good luck
Engine frame bracket and mounts
tranny crossmember
tranny (depeding on year of tranny, you may be able to change the bellhousing alone)
depending on the tranny you use, you may need to find or modify a driveshaft to work
more likely than not you would need to change the radiator
you need all the original accessory brackets for the 390
thats the bulk of it, there are a few odd and end things but they are specific to what year 302 (efi/carb) you currently have.
A 390 can make some great hp and tq if done right, might wanna try the FE section for more specific answers as to what the 390 is capable of and how to get there. Good luck
#34
#35
Seems there is 331/347 controversy everywhere.
However the discussion in the following link had some information I was unaware of...
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=575784
and another interesting thread to read
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=575438
However the discussion in the following link had some information I was unaware of...
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=575784
and another interesting thread to read
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=575438
Last edited by jwtaylor; 11-25-2004 at 06:45 AM.
#36
What do I need to purchase
to put this 302 back together and producing some moderate power and torque. I've been over to summit and it is like a maze of products to me. I have them sending me a catalog to study on. Looks like heads are going to run me about 800 bucks (Edelbrock Performers). I can get a crate motor for 1000 with core. Can you help me put together something on a budget of about 1750.00-2000.00 because I have additional money to spend making sure other items are sound on the truck?
Here's where I'm at:
1. Machine work on block 220.00 or Machine work on block and heads 400.00
Here's where I'm at:
1. Machine work on block 220.00 or Machine work on block and heads 400.00
#37
Being on a budget, you make a good point, there are other things to take into consideration. Take into account the radiator, hoses, belts, tranny, possibly wiring, ignition system, engine mounts, fluids (coolant, oil, tranny fluid), injectors, fuel filter, even the air filter all the little things will come back and bite ya. If you have a set budget as in cannot go past it, then plan for the worse, because more likely than not you will exceed your budget, seems to never fail. If you can get the performer for $900 that would be a good addition, see if the machinist is using hypereautectic or cast pistons as replacement, some shops use the hyper for everything. Might as well call comp or crane and see what they say about a camshaft. The cam and heads will be a good place to start. If you want mass air then do a search on google or your favorite search engine, there are sites that list junkyard parts in which you can put one together for little money.
Get pricing on all the little things that you know you have to replace, then if you can afford the heads ,great, throw in an aftermarket cam and you should see a positive difference. Then if budget allows down the road, throw on some headers, rework or replace the intake(s). The heads and cam are the big items, the others can be easily done later on.
Good luck
Get pricing on all the little things that you know you have to replace, then if you can afford the heads ,great, throw in an aftermarket cam and you should see a positive difference. Then if budget allows down the road, throw on some headers, rework or replace the intake(s). The heads and cam are the big items, the others can be easily done later on.
Good luck
#38
Alright, here's my recipie for a very healthy 302 that will toss around anything but a much larger, more expensive motor:
Short block: Ford Racing 5.0L, 9.0:1 comp w/hypereutectic slugs and forged rods/crank. Jeg's has 'em for $1,300.00
Heads: Edelbrock Performer RPM, 1.90/1.60 valves, $1,080.00
Cam: Comp Xtreme Energy 250H, cam kit w/lifters is around $170.00
You'll need hardened pushrods with those heads, use Comp's Magnums, which cost around $30 for all 16. Also, use Crane's Gold Race roller rockers, it will make a difference. Those sell for around $300 unfortunately, but other roller rockers may be found for around $200 of similar quality. The cheaper roller rockers are fine, the Gold Race are the best. Long tube headers are a must, don't even play around with shorties, they are a waste of time, money, torque, and skin on your knuckles. I'd make sure you're lit up with an MSD 6A box, and preferably the #4974 distributor (vac/mech advance). I don't know much of anything about EFI, and I don't want to, but if you put a dual plane aluminum intake and a 4bbl carb on that motor, it will make close to 400 ft*lbs at the flexplate, and over 300 HP. The best part is that you'll be able to score 17 MPG if you drive it right. This is the 302 that I built for my last truck, the only difference is that I went with the World Winsor Jr. heads, which I'd advise against in favor of the Edelbrock RPM, due to quality and performance. You can never go wrong by using Edelbrock products. The motor I described above cost around $3,500 to assemble with top-quality gaskets, and studs instead of bolts where available. B&M makes the right flexplate to mate either internal or external 302 with any SB transmission.
Short block: Ford Racing 5.0L, 9.0:1 comp w/hypereutectic slugs and forged rods/crank. Jeg's has 'em for $1,300.00
Heads: Edelbrock Performer RPM, 1.90/1.60 valves, $1,080.00
Cam: Comp Xtreme Energy 250H, cam kit w/lifters is around $170.00
You'll need hardened pushrods with those heads, use Comp's Magnums, which cost around $30 for all 16. Also, use Crane's Gold Race roller rockers, it will make a difference. Those sell for around $300 unfortunately, but other roller rockers may be found for around $200 of similar quality. The cheaper roller rockers are fine, the Gold Race are the best. Long tube headers are a must, don't even play around with shorties, they are a waste of time, money, torque, and skin on your knuckles. I'd make sure you're lit up with an MSD 6A box, and preferably the #4974 distributor (vac/mech advance). I don't know much of anything about EFI, and I don't want to, but if you put a dual plane aluminum intake and a 4bbl carb on that motor, it will make close to 400 ft*lbs at the flexplate, and over 300 HP. The best part is that you'll be able to score 17 MPG if you drive it right. This is the 302 that I built for my last truck, the only difference is that I went with the World Winsor Jr. heads, which I'd advise against in favor of the Edelbrock RPM, due to quality and performance. You can never go wrong by using Edelbrock products. The motor I described above cost around $3,500 to assemble with top-quality gaskets, and studs instead of bolts where available. B&M makes the right flexplate to mate either internal or external 302 with any SB transmission.
#39
...if you really need to stay under budget, don't even consider the 331 or 347, or you will blow your entire budget prepping the short block, and you won't have any funds left to equip it with real speed parts. A 331 with stock heads would be outpulled, outhussled, and use more fuel than a well-equipped, easy-breathing 302.
#40
TorqueKing is right, about the strokers. They get expensive, I just finished the "Monster within" about a month ago. It's a mean 331, it cost some serious cheddar, it ended up being aroun the 5 grand mark. It makes some serious power though.
On the 331, 347 stroker debate. I went with a 331 because I have seen two separate cases of a 347 spliting the block right down the lifter valley. I had no desire for this outcome so I went with a sportsman block and a main stud girdle.
jwtaylor, I'm still working on getting the sound of the cam posted. I do have some pictures of the motor in my gallery. They are of the 331 after I got it back from the speed shop.
Sanders
Sanders
On the 331, 347 stroker debate. I went with a 331 because I have seen two separate cases of a 347 spliting the block right down the lifter valley. I had no desire for this outcome so I went with a sportsman block and a main stud girdle.
jwtaylor, I'm still working on getting the sound of the cam posted. I do have some pictures of the motor in my gallery. They are of the 331 after I got it back from the speed shop.
Sanders
Sanders
#41
Sanders, I'll bet that 331 pulls hard, it sounds exciting. Of course a well-equipped 302 will destroy many motors that are even bigger, but a well-equipped 331 just isn't fair. It's definitely a cool motor if you have the money for it!
I've never seen a gas-motor block torn in half, that must be greusome. I'm a big-time NHRA fan, and I've seen the Top Fuel cars tear blocks, bend Titanium valves, grenade pistons, and snap blower belts, but that's the price you pay to put 6,500 HP to the ground.
I've never seen a gas-motor block torn in half, that must be greusome. I'm a big-time NHRA fan, and I've seen the Top Fuel cars tear blocks, bend Titanium valves, grenade pistons, and snap blower belts, but that's the price you pay to put 6,500 HP to the ground.
#43
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