When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1977 f-150 with a 351 in it. I got a new ignition part where the key goes in at. It kicks back out of the cranking postion into the "on" position like it should but it continues to give power to the starter solenoid and crank while the truck is running. Could i of possibly got a bad ignition module thing or what kind of ideas do you have. I have heard of a bad ground but im not sure. where could i have a bad ground to cause this. and what else could it be. anyone ever had this problem?
i thought it was that but my dad said it seemed to be working properly. it was just getting power when it wasnt supposed to. he may be wrong. i also never had a problem with the starter sylinoid before i swapped cabs and put the ignition from this cab on this truck. long story short i swapped cabs out so i have the ignition from a different truck now. the wiring harness that is in my cab is from a 300 6cyl. but everything works the same way as far as i know. i may be wrong. is the ignition the same. i know it has different prongs i just figured they did the same thing so i have the ignition from the 300 6cyl to crank the 351 and it does everything fine but stop cranking. anymore suggestions?
Last edited by trucking79; Nov 22, 2004 at 09:29 PM.
my 76 F150 did that and it was the switch...you said u replaced it ...was it a new one or a used one?? if it was used the inner switch mechinism might be sticking and causing it...that what mine did..
i got a new one. i replaced the inner part(i.e the key) and the part that it slides into(the part with the prongs on the back) me and my dad r thinking i may of just ran across a bad one by luck. sound about right? or any other suggestion like a ground or anything?
Last edited by trucking79; Nov 22, 2004 at 10:06 PM.
Reason for an engine to continue cranking with key off.
1) Faulty Ignition switch
2) Faulty Starter SOLENOID (relay)
3) Low battery voltage that Locks relay in start position then charged battery takes over.
4) voltage gets to circuit via a power wire.
How to check?
1) Check for correct harness connections to starter relay.
1a) Turn Key to ON check for voltage at coil +
1b) Turn Key to start check voltage at S terminal of Relay
1c) Turn key to start and check for voltage at I terminal
1d) Do pin-out test for switch with Multi-meter with power off.
2) With all electrical connections secure :
Try touching a seperate wire from Battery + Post to The S terminal of Starter Relay
Starter should crank<> Remove it <> Starter stops cranking > If it continues,Relay is faulty.
How to check?
1) Check for correct harness connections to starter relay.
1a) Turn Key to ON check for voltage at coil +
1b) Turn Key to start check voltage at S terminal of Relay
1c) Turn key to start and check for voltage at I terminal
I think Dennis is right. I would first guess the two small wires on the starter solinoid are turned around. Do as Dennis suggested. Remove the small wires and test them. The wire with power when key is on, goes to the I terminal on solinoid. The wire with power when key is in start position, goes to the S terminal on solinoid.
I think Dennis made some very good points, Id never have thought about #3 (low voltage) I read this thread because we have a *cough* *cough* Diesel suburban that has that problem, and everything else checks out......
Too bad I have to "spread some reputation around before giving it mil1ion again" because that post deserves it. A+ Dennis
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.