supporting cab for floor replacement
supporting cab for floor replacement
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If you are going to take the cab off the frame and do a full replacement then I'd definitely tack in bracing N-S and E-W as well as a couple diagonals. Last thing you want is to have it come out not square, the floor provides a lot of the squaring. Another alternative is to replace the floor in two 1/2s front and rear then seam them down the center. IMO the best way would be to bolt the new floor to the squared and leveled chassis with temporary solid spacers in place of the rubber mounts. Set the body over it, center it, level the sills, square the diagonals, then attach the floor to the body. That way you have accounted for any variations the chassis aquired over the years.
Just saw your gallery, see my comment in your intro topic.
Just saw your gallery, see my comment in your intro topic.
Last edited by AXracer; Nov 21, 2004 at 11:56 AM.
old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,918
Likes: 1,051
From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
replacing the floors
Kevin,
I agree with AX... do them 1/2 at a time... front half then back half...
tack weld some cross braces from door frame to door frame to keep the cab from spreading THEN makes your cuts and replacements... I used 14 guage metal for mine.... here' some info
floor fix
later
john
I agree with AX... do them 1/2 at a time... front half then back half...
tack weld some cross braces from door frame to door frame to keep the cab from spreading THEN makes your cuts and replacements... I used 14 guage metal for mine.... here' some info
floor fix
later
john
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info guys, ill will bace the cab. It does make sense to do the front halve first then the rear and weld them at the middle. The first 55 has very solid floors, so i may acually cut them out and use them to save on costs.John your article on your floors was great, it helped alot.
Thanks
Kevin
Thanks
Kevin
