I have a 96 ford ranger xlt that when I brake I hear a noise that can best be described as winding down. The noise does not happen all of the time and infact usually will not start until I have driven (with continual braking) for 10 mins or so. After a while the noise turns from a winding down to almost a grinding noise. I had my brakes checked (both front and back by a mechanic) and was told that there is nothing wrong.

The way that the noise only happens after braking a lot leads me to think that something is heating up which causes the noise. Braking down hill tends to bring about the noise faster.

Any suggestions on the problem/solution would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chad

 

Also I forgot to mention that the noise is coming from the front end of the truck

 

my truck did the same crap. It's semi-metallic pads, they do that on some vehicles including rangers. I just put on some EBC greenstuff ceramic pads that i bought at www.tirerack.com and turned my rotors and my front brakes are badass now. You barely touch the pad and you almost go through the windshield and they don't make any noise.

 

I experienced a problem with that, my pads got hot, really really hot, and there was smoke pouring out of the wheel well one day, geez did that freak me out, its 90 degrees out side and there is smoke coming out of the right front, what a way to give someone a heart attack.....but anyways back to the topic........I let it stay too long and it warped the rotor, running these semi-metallic pads, here in a little while, i'm going to do the same as the buddy in the previous post and buy some good pads and get me a new rotor, since that is the only one that is warped and i haven't put many miles on these as is, I replaced the whole front brakes about 6 months ago or so, yeah, not much on them at all, now if that rotor is slightly warped i'll turn it, but i know the right front is bad, very bad so that def. needs replacing, but yeah, you probably are building up a lot of heat, you may need to find a way to get rid of that heat, i tried everything i knew to do and none of it worked, and I couldn't get on here to find out so i'm out a rotor, but i'd look into a way to get rid of your heat efficiently before the same happens to you, not saying it will happen, but it could

 

I can change my own brakes (going to get the ceramic pads as per your guys suggestions, thanks by the way), but how hard is it to change or turn the rotors? I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to working on my car. Thanks again for the suggestions. I will sure give it a try

 

Is your truck 2 or 4 wheel drive?

 

Ken, my truck is a two wheel drive, but I have once again with your guys help fixed my problem. The ceramic brakes did the trick and I almost went through the winshield testing them, what stopping power. I checked the rotors and they seemed straight and smooth. Thanks again guys. Also the rotor question still applies for a future reference.

 

Rotor, Ranger and Explorer
NOTE: Refer to the Spindle, Wheel and Caliper Illustration in this section.



Removal

Remove and discard sufficient brake fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) to allow for caliper piston displacement.

Raise and support the vehicle.

Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

Using a C-clamp:

Position the frame of the C-clamp on the inboard side of the disc brake caliper. Do not place the clamp frame over the front brake hose.
Position the C-clamp screw on the outboard brake shoe and lining.
Tighten the C-clamp only enough to give removal clearance for the disc brake caliper.
Remove the two front disc brake caliper anchor plate bolts.

CAUTION: Do not allow the weight of the disc brake caliper (2B120) to hang from the front brake hose (2078).

Slide the caliper and anchor bracket assembly off the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102). Using a wire, support the disc brake caliper from a convenient underbody component.

NOTE: Steps 7 through 10 apply to 4x2 vehicles. For 4x4 vehicles, go to Step 11.



Remove the hub grease cap (1131), cotter pin, nut retainer, hub spindle nut and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).

Carefully pull outward and push back the front disc brake hub and rotor to expose the front wheel bearing (1216).

Remove the front wheel bearing and protect it from contamination.

Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor, inner bearing cone and roller (1201) and the grease seal as an assembly from the front wheel spindle (3105).

On 4x4 vehicles, remove the front disc brake hub and rotor from the front hub.

If necessary, remove the grease seal and the inner bearing cone and roller from the front disc brake hub and rotor. Discard the grease seal.

Installation

Inspect the front disc brake hub and rotor for cracks or other damage. Replace as necessary.

If necessary, install the inner bearing cone and roller and a new grease seal in the front disc brake hub and rotor.

Position the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front hub (4x4 vehicles) or the front wheel spindle (4x2 vehicles).

Install the front wheel bearing.

Install the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

Install the hub spindle nut. Tighten the hub spindle nut to 23-34 Nm (17-25 lb-ft) while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor, back off 120-180 degrees and retighten to 2.0-2.3 Nm (18-20 lb-in).

Without changing the position of the hub spindle nut, install the nut retainer, cotter pin and hub grease cap.

Install the disc brake caliper and front disc brake caliper anchor plate assembly. Refer to the procedure in this section.

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the lugnuts to 115-155 Nm (85-115 lb-ft).

Lower the vehicle. Test the brakes.