The heat riser on my truck is messed up and leaking.The guy at Midas(he has had a couple of old fords)recommended headers rather than fight with this riser.
Will putting heat tape on the header keep the starter from being damaged?
I have never had headers before but have heard they will loosen up from time to time.Does this happen often?
Will it detract from the value of the truck?
Will I get any noticable hp gain?
Has anyone else had problems with the heat riser and were you able to repair it?
The truck is a 1965 f250 c/s.It has a 352 /Cruise-o-matic.I will be searching thru the site for info but I have to get back to this guy today.Sorry to be such a pain here but I promise when I come up to speed on these old trucks I will contribute when I can.
Thanx,
Joe

 

I've had headers on my 66 F100 4x4 for 20 years, truck has a 390 in it. The increase of power was about 10-15 horses and 1-2 miles per gallon. They have not ever lossen up on me. On the 4x4 the starter is not a problem, but on a 2wd the strater is close, so wrapping them would be a good idea. Also run some good duel pipes, I have mine coming out infront of the rear wheels. As far as value, are you doing this truck for yourself or for resale? I do with my trucks what I like because they are keepers.

 

Leaking heat risers, a subject I am quite knowledgable on.
Ask jowilker how much he likes his headers.
First problem with going to headers is removing the manifolds without breaking off half the bolts into the head.
Then there is the loosening up issue (which, in spite of our lucky friend above, is aggravatingly common).
Then there's the starter issue (I'd suggest a heat shield for the starter vs. header wrap).
If the starter does take a crap, it's a major job to replace it with the headers.

Thus, I have elected to pass on the headers (and the expense of buying decent quality ones).
As for the heat riser...I still have not completely fixed mine. Mine had a loose flapper shaft (where it passes through the cast housing). I welded the flapper open and globbed enough weld around the shaft that it doesn't leak out there anymore.
Getting the thing to seal to the head/pipe is another story, and I am going to have to tear it apart again to attempt another attack.
DO NOT buy the replacement that LMC sells as it doesn't fit properly, which you will only discover after you have installed it and made it non-returnable. The holes for the studs are too large, and the riser valve will not stay seated, and continually blow out gaskets.
I bought an oem replacement on Ebay with the correct part number, but it was the wrong thickness, so would not fit.
So I'm back to square one with it. I've also had trouble finding the correct gasket (not the donut) to fit it, so have to make do with one that is a close match.
It's extremely frustrating. What I'd like to do is find a non-riser manifold for the driver's side, maybe off a larger truck or a FE equipped car or something, but haven't yet looked to see what exists.

 

I went on ahead and ordered the headers.I'm not crazy about doing it but I dont see a lot of choices.I ordered the hedman headers because this is what the midas guy has used before with some success.The motor has been apart in the last few years so hopefully the bolts will come out OK.I will fab some sort og heat shield once the headers are installed.I'm goint to keep the orig manifold and see what I can figure out about modifying it.Checked the underside out thoroughly today and foung out I have a limited slip diff in it with 4:10 gears.Thanx again for the replies
Joe

 

Take real good care with your shielding and the starter will be good. Are you putting these os your self? If not do it your self remenber to use a friend for help, you may have to put starter and header up at the same time. Good luck and have fun with. I also have a 2wd 66 wih auto trans and a 68 1ton Crew truck that we will be doing headers on it for the same reason, bad flappers.

 

Dittos ddavidv!!! No more headers for me.

If you run your truck like I do mine, it never sees 4000 rpms, runs in the 22-2800 rpm range at 65-85 mph, there is no value in headers. Operating over 4000 rpms is a different ball game.

John