Drill Dr. and other drill sharpners
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Belleville, MI
No problem, thanx. Another tip to prolong the life of sharp drill bits is to drill pilot holes first. This has two advantages for bits 3/8" and larger. If the material you're working with is harder then low carbon steel or just thick try drilling a pilot hole first. For example say you need to drill a ½" hole in a frame rail that is ¼" or 3/8" thick steel. Pick a drill bit about three to four steps smaller like a 3/8" bit to drill the pilot hole first. It will be easer to drill the 3/8" hole and then the ½" hole will go much faster with less effort and ware. The other advantage to pilot holes is keeping the final hole on center. You may have noticed that it's hard to keep a large drill bit on the center mark when starting out because they tend to wander or walk around. A pilot hole will prevent this.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
I drilled pilot holes in my frame rails when I installed my lift kit. Made it much easier. Although, I think the pilot bit was dull because it took a lot of effort and after 4 holes I was drained. It was my friend's drill bit.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
From: Sapulpa OK
I'm with koconno2. With practice and a good bit as refrence one can hand sharpen bits larger than 3/16". The smaller the more difficult. I keep the right hand wheel on my bench grinder just for tool sharpening. It is a fine grade and I keep it dressed flat so it will grind a flat surface.
To know when a drill bit is dull, other than slow performance, look at the cutting edge. If you can see a shiny edge with the OD rolled over then it is dull. It should look like a knife edge all the way out to the OD.
When your feed and speed are correct you should be able to produce two continuos chips, one from each cutting edge. If you get small broken chips then something is not right.
To know when a drill bit is dull, other than slow performance, look at the cutting edge. If you can see a shiny edge with the OD rolled over then it is dull. It should look like a knife edge all the way out to the OD.
When your feed and speed are correct you should be able to produce two continuos chips, one from each cutting edge. If you get small broken chips then something is not right.
New User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
Drill Doctor, there should be malpractice insurance
Originally Posted by karljay
Anyone use a Drill Dr. or other drill bit sharpeners?
I'm looking at the one from Harbor Freight for about $20, the drill Dr. is about $100 and I could buy a lot of bits for that.
In the past, I've use a dremel with grinding bit and sharpened them that way, but I don't think it does a great job.
Would I be throwing away my $20 @ Harbor Freight?
I'm looking at the one from Harbor Freight for about $20, the drill Dr. is about $100 and I could buy a lot of bits for that.
In the past, I've use a dremel with grinding bit and sharpened them that way, but I don't think it does a great job.
Would I be throwing away my $20 @ Harbor Freight?
I purchased a unit from Keldahl, a German Company. The unit was expensive, but it willl renew a drill at what ever angle you wish as well as the relief angle. I am extremely satisfied with the results as are the customers for whom I resharpen drills on contract.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Paris,Ky
Originally Posted by koconno2
If doing this by hand on a grinder always have a container of water close by to quench the bit in-between each pass with the wheel. You can just as easily burn a bit when sharpening it, which makes the cutting edges brittle. .
If it is too hot to touch with your finger, it is too hot to quench in water. Let it air cool and start again. Don't allow it to get so hot you can't touch it!
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aerocolorado
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Feb 11, 2004 03:29 PM
90287, bit, drill, drills, freight, frieght, gagesharpen, good, grinding, harbor, sharpener, sharpenerharbor, sharpeners, sharpening, wheel
