welding wire quality
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Elder User
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welding wire quality
I have been using my Miller 250x for about 4 years now and have always bought ESAB wire from the local welding shop to use in it with no problems. recently noticed I was about out so I went and got a new roll- they gave me some off brand instead. Can't think of what it is, but it had a big american flag on the box and said "made in USA" so I didnt give it much thought. Last weekend during a late night/early morning assault on my latest project rig, I had to put said new roll of wire on. When I pulled it out of the box I immediately noticed that it wasnt shiny like previous wire, but I still didn't think too much about it. After a while it became clear that there was a problem- It was a little harder to get the arc settled down and then I would be welding along just fine and it would start to spatter and pop horribly. I tried making adjustments and changing some components but to no avail. I have to assume it is just the quality of the wire- I am going to reel off the top layer before I start to weld again to see if that makes a difference first before I try another wire supply. Any opinions on this problem??
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: saxton pa.
Welding Wire
If It was me I would take that wire back to where you got it!! Most likely if you
check the wire you will find the diameter changes, causing arc instability. If the
shiny copper coating is'nt on the wire it won't (RUN RIGHT) Take it back @ get the good stuff!!! HOTWRENCH
check the wire you will find the diameter changes, causing arc instability. If the
shiny copper coating is'nt on the wire it won't (RUN RIGHT) Take it back @ get the good stuff!!! HOTWRENCH
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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I would verify that it is the right diameter and type. If it was too small you would still be able to run it but it wouldn't run very well. Also I would verify solid vs flux cored. Maybe they gave you the wrong thing.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: nc
some wires have a coating and some dont it all depends on your application. i have always used superarc L56. its a great all round wire. lays a pretty bead and doesnt splatter much at all. i think its manufatured by lincoln
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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There are several things that could cause poor feeding, even some dust dislodged in the liner when changing and drive rool tension changes that need to be made. Copper coating is sposed to lubricate and let it slide thru easier, but it also flakes off sometimes and plugs liners. Lots opinions on wire, some guys dont like the coating, some do. The only problem I have ever had was with L56 on small 10# spools for a smaller machine in 030 size. They wernt wound very evenly and I got away from it. 30# never had a problem. I have been using L56 for years too but bought my first roll of Hobart the other day, a lot of guys say they like it better and it tends to wet out a little better,, we will see.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Eastern Shore, Md.
Could be several things. Like stated before, quality of the copper, it's copper coated for lube, when they make mig wire or any other wire it is being drawn (streched) to the desired size then spooled. Another thing it could be is the cast & helix. If you were to take a loop or 2 off of your spool and throw it on the ground it should'nt spread too or far spring up like a slinky. The coating should be shiny, not dull or rusted. I pretty much just look for ER 70S-6 which is the AWS designation which is a good all-around rod.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: in a house
the ER70S-6 is good wire. I use it at work and in the garage. harbor frieght even sells it. you can also put on the little cotton bands soaked with a lube/cleaner that the wire runs through before it enters the drive roller. you also want to put unused spools in a bag to keep em clean.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: nc
FYI.....i ake a small peice of felt and zip tie it around the wire just before it goes into the gears. it keeps alot of dust off of the wire etc.
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I just came in from the shop- I pulled off a good amount from the spool and the wire underneath didn't look any different. I blew out liner with compressed air and turned the tensioner down a bit. Seems to be doing better now. Thanx for everyones input- next roll of wire I will make shure is name brand stuff just to be shure. The idea about a wiper before feeding into drive wheels is a good one- a couple of months back my wire stopped feeding, even with drive wheels cranked down all the way. I assumed the wheels were worn out and went and got a new set, but when I went to put them on I found the guide right before the feed wheels was packed full of dust, lint, etc.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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When cleaning liners it is best to remove them from the gun, lay them straight out on a clean floor and blow slowly at first so you dont plug the thing, when dust comes out you can crank the air to them and finish blowing. If you have been using excessive nozzle dip it often wick's up at the end of the liner, use some brakekleen to solvent it and blow it out. Sometimes tips get messed up, make sure the wire slides freely thru it. I blow the wire compartment out with air when changing wire rolls and do like you said, blow the guide tube and assembly out. Having too much tension on the rolls is as bad as not enough. If you have a manual read it for proper settings. I ran across one the other day that was so tight it bogged the motor down. Have you been running this machine a lot in 4 years? It may be worth a new gun liner, they dont cost much.
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Yea, I use it a lot. When I bought it I ordered a replacement liner knowing it would need to be replaced periodically. Seems as if I changed it out a little over a year ago and picked up another one while I was in the big city. Although I do have some nozzle dip, I really havent used it much. And I try to keep the tensioner just tight enough to do the job.