Unfortunately the particles will get down around the top land of the piston and embed there, scoring the cylinder walls during operation. Removing the head is the only way to do this. When the heads are removed it is common to use white grease around the top of the piston to catch the debris when the piston is cleaned etc. The piston can then be moved down to allow the grease and trapped grit to be wiped away. Using WD or other liquids will just wash the grit and debris down into the top ring land area where it can do the most damage.

 

I agree with torque1st, remove head and do it the right way. that way you are sure there are no pieces of ceramic that make it into the cylinder as this WOULD do damage to the cylinder wall

 

Yes i know it sounds crude. Do you think a dealer would remove a head and clean the bore? Do they even blow around the plugs before removing them?
Carl....o&o>......

 

To answer the earlier question about engine size, it is the 4-cyl 2.3 liter engine (yeah, I realize it's low end, but it's served me well for the last 10 years). The plug in question is the one right in the front closest to the distributor.

 

Letterman, i was thinking you had a 390, this is alot less involved. Isn't it a aluminum head? Just pull it. Carl........o&o>.........

 

If we get into engine specifics the post will have to be moved to the tech forums. We cover generic techniques here in the Garage forum.

 

First of all, I have been in that exact situation with a friends 2.3. If I understand correctly, you have twisted off the plug, and now there is nothing left for the socket to grab hold of. If this is correct, then what follows is not fun. Two options, either take the head to a machine shop and let them go at it, or you can remove the head, drill into the plug and use an easy out to remove the remains. Then you'll need to clean the threads to make sure this doesn't happen again. By the way, PB Blaster is the way to go. Use plenty of it before you try the easy out or you'll end up with a bigger mess then you have now. It's not fun, and it's not a quick job, so take it easy or you'll be looking for a shop to repair your head if you're lucky, if not you'll be looking for another head. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

Remove the head like we told you in your garage forum thread which has been merged with this one.

This is payback for not using anti-seize...

The threads are totally destroyed also. You will need to take it to a machine shop to have an insert installed. Unless you have a drill press and the proper equipment it will be very difficult or impossible to get the insert aligned right.

 

I just went throught this on a 97 5.8. Ford had replaced the exhaust manifolds twice, and the second time they did not replace or reinstall the plug heat shields on the manifolds. The 1 year old spark plugs froze in the head and broke (3 of them) but the porcelin came out. I heated the remaining shard of metal with torch and removed with an easy out. Use lots of penetrating oil during the process and let it sit. Blow out the cylinders when done with air in the spark plug hole. I had to pull the engine due to bad manifolds again! at 80K miles, so I did this on the engine stand. I am able to look in the cylinders as well, and never lost any porcelin into any of the three cylinders. Good old warped 5.8 manifolds! When I removed I found why they dont seal well, on rear cylinder the exhaust port was almost covered by the manifold flange! Ford calls it tolerance stack, I call it junk. Bought a set of JBAs that fit PERFECTLY. Oddly JBA can make it fit!

Good luck!