Need help - new engine locked up
#1
Need help - new engine locked up
'97 van motor into '95 F250.
I put this engine in over the last week and have been trying to start it for two days now. I finally figured out the engine is completely locked up. I am at my wit's end trying to figure out why. I cranked it over easily by hand just fine to install the flexplate bolts, but now I turn the key and the starter just bears down and nothing happens. Everything electrical is AOK. Now I cannot even turn it over with the breaker bar.
I think the valves aren't opening. Here's what I've thought of and eliminated already:
1. coolant or oil leak into cylinder - I first tried to crank this engine WHILE I was filling the engine with both coolant and oil (CPS was disconnected so it wouldn't start). I eliminated this because anything that leaked into the cylinder that fast (i.e. within minutes) would have been pushed back out by the piston coming up.
2. Electrical - pulled, cleaned, and tested it ALL - and besides, I can't turn it over by hand now, despite the fact that I got at least a full revolution out of it to bolt up the flexplate.
3. EBPV - it's open. Wouldn't seal tight enough anyway.
4. Injector or glow plug not seated right, allowing oil into cylinder - see #1
5. Frozen belt-driven accessory - nope. Won't crank with no belt either.
6. No, there's nothing stuck in the flexplate teeth (spinach?) or timing pointer or anything like that.
It's not "hitting" anything in the cylinder - once a machine shop put the wrong pistons in an IH 345 of mine and while I was turning it over to bolt up the flexplate I heard "thunk" and knew exactly what it was. This ain't it. This is a "soft" lockup, and besides, when I let off the key and the starter disengages, you can kinda hear a "sigh" as the compression also releases.
So I really don't know where to go from here. Why would the valves not be opening, if indeed that is my problem? In all my diesel experience (non-PSD) the lifters were solid. Even if PSDs have hydraulic lifters (I really don't know) would they really pump down enough as the engine sat in the junkyard to seal up the entire thing? If this long shot is the case how would I pump them back up? Do the glow plugs extend down into the cylinder, so I can pull them out and release pressure without having to pull the injectors?
Otherwise, I simply don't know how I can have a non-locked up engine, then a locked-up engine. Please help, I'm pulling my hair out now.
Darel
I put this engine in over the last week and have been trying to start it for two days now. I finally figured out the engine is completely locked up. I am at my wit's end trying to figure out why. I cranked it over easily by hand just fine to install the flexplate bolts, but now I turn the key and the starter just bears down and nothing happens. Everything electrical is AOK. Now I cannot even turn it over with the breaker bar.
I think the valves aren't opening. Here's what I've thought of and eliminated already:
1. coolant or oil leak into cylinder - I first tried to crank this engine WHILE I was filling the engine with both coolant and oil (CPS was disconnected so it wouldn't start). I eliminated this because anything that leaked into the cylinder that fast (i.e. within minutes) would have been pushed back out by the piston coming up.
2. Electrical - pulled, cleaned, and tested it ALL - and besides, I can't turn it over by hand now, despite the fact that I got at least a full revolution out of it to bolt up the flexplate.
3. EBPV - it's open. Wouldn't seal tight enough anyway.
4. Injector or glow plug not seated right, allowing oil into cylinder - see #1
5. Frozen belt-driven accessory - nope. Won't crank with no belt either.
6. No, there's nothing stuck in the flexplate teeth (spinach?) or timing pointer or anything like that.
It's not "hitting" anything in the cylinder - once a machine shop put the wrong pistons in an IH 345 of mine and while I was turning it over to bolt up the flexplate I heard "thunk" and knew exactly what it was. This ain't it. This is a "soft" lockup, and besides, when I let off the key and the starter disengages, you can kinda hear a "sigh" as the compression also releases.
So I really don't know where to go from here. Why would the valves not be opening, if indeed that is my problem? In all my diesel experience (non-PSD) the lifters were solid. Even if PSDs have hydraulic lifters (I really don't know) would they really pump down enough as the engine sat in the junkyard to seal up the entire thing? If this long shot is the case how would I pump them back up? Do the glow plugs extend down into the cylinder, so I can pull them out and release pressure without having to pull the injectors?
Otherwise, I simply don't know how I can have a non-locked up engine, then a locked-up engine. Please help, I'm pulling my hair out now.
Darel
#2
I suspect a hydraulic lock. A bad seal on an injector can introduce oil or fuel or both into a cylinder. The only way I know of to clear that would be to remove the injectors. The glow plugs are not in the combustion chamber. Have you heard this engine run before? You may have an engine that was giving someone else problems. Have you run a coolant system pressure test? it might be a head gasket.I hope that I am wrong but the symptoms you describe would lead me to suspect a cylinder full of fluid.
I doubt that it's in the valves unless a valve has stuck in the guide and is hitting the piston. Even if the valves didn't move at all the engine should still turn over some, just not well.
It seems that your problems may have started after the oil and coolant were added. That could be a clue. Keep us posted on what you find and good luck.
I doubt that it's in the valves unless a valve has stuck in the guide and is hitting the piston. Even if the valves didn't move at all the engine should still turn over some, just not well.
It seems that your problems may have started after the oil and coolant were added. That could be a clue. Keep us posted on what you find and good luck.
#4
I would suspect a head gasket also, or a crack in a head or block.
why was the engine in the junk yard in the first place??? maybe it was bad before you got it. pulling the injectors back out would really be the only way to know if it is hydrolocked. once you have the valve covers off and the injectors out turn it over by hand, you will be able to see the rocker arms for the valves moving then also. keep us posted!!!
Diesel rod
why was the engine in the junk yard in the first place??? maybe it was bad before you got it. pulling the injectors back out would really be the only way to know if it is hydrolocked. once you have the valve covers off and the injectors out turn it over by hand, you will be able to see the rocker arms for the valves moving then also. keep us posted!!!
Diesel rod
#5
This is a reputable junkyard that has an independent rebuilder go over all their engines and they come with a 100-day warranty. I have no doubt there could be some problems but something like this they'd catch right away.
Didn't try turning it the opposite direction, I figured I'd just end up loosening the crank snout bolt even with "normal" compression.
The pressure test is a good idea. I will try that.
I have one more question. I posted this same question on another board so I can get the maximum exposure since I really need to get this fixed. There, everyone agrees the glow plugs extend into the cylinder and I can pull the glow plugs to crank it over. Here, it seems everyone agrees the GPs DO NOT extend into the combustion chamber and I need to pull the injectors to crank it. Which is it?
Thanks!
Darel
Didn't try turning it the opposite direction, I figured I'd just end up loosening the crank snout bolt even with "normal" compression.
The pressure test is a good idea. I will try that.
I have one more question. I posted this same question on another board so I can get the maximum exposure since I really need to get this fixed. There, everyone agrees the glow plugs extend into the cylinder and I can pull the glow plugs to crank it over. Here, it seems everyone agrees the GPs DO NOT extend into the combustion chamber and I need to pull the injectors to crank it. Which is it?
Thanks!
Darel
#6
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Dryden, ON, Canada
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Yup, you can pull the glows to relieve the compression. That's where you'd hook a compression tester to if you were checking it...
How long did this engine sit? It is possible that the valves aren't moving much. I have seen an IDI 7.3 that the lifters would bleed down and the valves would just barely move until it started to build oil pressure.
How long did this engine sit? It is possible that the valves aren't moving much. I have seen an IDI 7.3 that the lifters would bleed down and the valves would just barely move until it started to build oil pressure.
#7
the hydraulic lifters in theese motors can be very finicky. pull your glow plugs out. yes they do go into the combustion chamber about a 1/4" about the same amount that your injector nozzles do. the air needs to be purged out of thoose lifters if thats whats causing your lock up situation. like the other guys said could have had a injector oring get damaged on the way in and dumped fluid into the cylyinders. be careful pulling thoose glow plugs if there under pressure. spin the motor for 10-15 seconds about 5 times letting the starter cool down for a few min between trys with the ecm fuse out which is #9 under the hood. and disconnect the feed to the gpr so you dont get any fireworks at the gp's wires. this should purge any air out of the lifters and get anything out of the cylinder that shoulndt be there. if your getting a cyl that is continually shooting stuff out then you probably have a oring bad. i would use a compression tester at that point to pin point whic ine its in if you have to get that far. but definatly the dry lifters have enough travel to not let the valves open.
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