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Old Nov 16, 2004 | 04:25 AM
  #1  
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78F460
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head porting question

Does anyone have before and after pictures of porting their heads? I have D3VE A2A heads That I would like to port but I'm not sure what to take out.
The exhaust side looks like it needs the most work.
Thanks for any replies.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2004 | 07:44 AM
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Go here and pay the $25. There are great pics and it will tell you everything you need to know about porting D3's.

http://reincarnation-automotive.com/
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 05:44 AM
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Can anyone tell me if I can grind out the bump on the exhaust roof in the D3 heads? I really don't want to get into full on porting, just want to open the exhaust side a little. Will it help a stock engine?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:08 AM
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From: houston
What is your goal? Head porting is a tricky science. You can actually reduce flow in the runners if it is done wrong. For most street applications there will be no noticeable gains until you reach High RPM (5000+). You may also lose low speed throttle response due to decreased velocity in the runners. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 11:31 AM
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Ford heads are notorious for their poor exhaust flow characteristics. Pretty much anything you do on the exhaust side to improve flow is going to be a benefit. If you look at most performance porting jobs you'll see that even the portion of the valve boss that protrudes into the pocket is removed to help reduce the flow restriction. In addition I know several guys who either reshape the boss into a wing shape or remove it and grind a small "fin" for lack of a better term in the roof of the pocket between the valve boss & the pocket exit into the port to help direct the flow.

As far as losing low end TQ due to reduced velocity, that applies to the intake port. Larger intake ports reduce the velocity of the A/F mixture on a normally aspirated engine and therefore reduce low end TQ. Of course when you do get into the higher RPMs then they can really scream because of the increased A/F mixture they're able to feed into the combustion chamber. It would take a very signifcant amount of metal removal to take a stock, small port head and open it up enough to make a serious difference in the bottom end. Most heads you're probably well into the water jackets before you could open it up that far.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 02:14 AM
  #6  
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I run c9ve and d0ve heads, I always have the EGR humps removed. I let my machine shop do this to have it done correctley and evenly, they even port match to my exhaust size. I do this to all my street engines and it helps my all out performance including my low end, I do not touch my intake side for street use. You would be surprised how much this exhaust modification with a good set of headers will increase your performance.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 03:55 PM
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Yes, you can remove the thermactor hump in the exhaust. It's pretty easy, with a good double cut carbide and compressor, it takes me about 5min per runner to do away with them. You'll pick up a solid 15-20hp with this modification alone.

Other thing I'd do, even on a very mild engine, is clean up the step from the valve seat to the runner...this is a huge flow disruption. Otherwise...you can raise the exhaust runner a bit...these three things are your biggest "bang for the buck" for porting.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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can you remove the humps all the way without cuting into anything? i have a set of d3s for my set boat and have started to work on a little but i thought you were suposed to shape them into a vee shape and not take them all the way down.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 07:36 AM
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I've always taken them down to being level with the roof of the port. It's not an area where you'll hit water. Biggest concern as far as water is the right side of the guide boss at the roof...looking in from the exhaust port side.
 
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