Flatbed
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Flatbed
I have a '78 F-250 on a 1 ton frame,I took the bed off and am currently fabricating a flatbed for it. Does anyone know how the frame gets blocked up
(since it isn't straight) and if so the heights at the mounting holes to make the bed level with the truck? I have made trailers, racks, and other things but this is my first flatbed, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
-supergoldtone-
(since it isn't straight) and if so the heights at the mounting holes to make the bed level with the truck? I have made trailers, racks, and other things but this is my first flatbed, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
-supergoldtone-
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
Most have a wooden spacer - a 2X6 on edge that runs the lenght of the box. The box is set on the frame and held down by U bolts thru whatever frame the box has, the spacer, and the truck frame. Oak works best, but I have used fur. Cut the wood to match the frame.
Last edited by WillyB; Nov 15, 2004 at 02:05 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: ct.
The 1st one I made was on a '79 F-250 4x4. Used a pressure treated 4x4 in back and a 4x6 in front to compensate for the frame height differance. I ran those the same direction as the frame then used u-bolts to fasten. I then used 4x4's over the top cross way's then screwed rough sawn oak from the local sawmill to the top the same direction as the frame. That bed lasted about ten yrs. or until the frame rotted on the truck and was forced to sell.
If you can weld and cut steel you can also use square stock for your frame then weld a piece of 1/4 or 1/8 diamond plate to it.
You may also be able to find an old flat bed for a cheap price attached to a truck. I do have one in the classifieds on this sight attached to a '74 for only 500.00. That also has a working hoist for the dump body. There around for the right price, you just have to look for them. Good Luck!
If you can weld and cut steel you can also use square stock for your frame then weld a piece of 1/4 or 1/8 diamond plate to it.
You may also be able to find an old flat bed for a cheap price attached to a truck. I do have one in the classifieds on this sight attached to a '74 for only 500.00. That also has a working hoist for the dump body. There around for the right price, you just have to look for them. Good Luck!
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
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From: Near Fresno, California
I built one many years ago using pre-formed steel rub rails on the outside edges. I ordered the rail through a local welding shop, and they came with standard stake pockets - the pockets were seperate and you punched a hole in the top edge of the rail to locate them. When I was done it looked like the box was built in a factory.
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How exactly do the u-bolts hold on to the flatbed? I'm not really clear on what that joint would look like.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
Sorry, no picture, but the U bolt not only holds the spacer, but also the box (to the frame.)
I wouldn't call them blocks as they each stretch from the back of the cab to the bumper end of the frame, one on each side. If you use short blocks it is always possible for one to work loose and fall out.
The bottom edge is contoured to the truck frame, while the top edge is straight and level. The last box I built used a 3" channel as a frame, with the same size stringers (cross pieces) welded to it. every 18" OC. I welded the rub rails to these stringers.
I used two U bolts on each side. The bolts would go around the 3" channel bed frame, the spacer, and the truck frame, locking the 3 together.
Between each stringer I cut and fit a wood 2X3, and then screwed the boards that made the floor of the box to these.
You can use a grinder, or just notch the spacer for any rivets or other protrusions in the truck frame.
Hope this helps - if it does not send me an email and I will do a quick drawing of what I am talking about.
I wouldn't call them blocks as they each stretch from the back of the cab to the bumper end of the frame, one on each side. If you use short blocks it is always possible for one to work loose and fall out.
The bottom edge is contoured to the truck frame, while the top edge is straight and level. The last box I built used a 3" channel as a frame, with the same size stringers (cross pieces) welded to it. every 18" OC. I welded the rub rails to these stringers.
I used two U bolts on each side. The bolts would go around the 3" channel bed frame, the spacer, and the truck frame, locking the 3 together.
Between each stringer I cut and fit a wood 2X3, and then screwed the boards that made the floor of the box to these.
You can use a grinder, or just notch the spacer for any rivets or other protrusions in the truck frame.
Hope this helps - if it does not send me an email and I will do a quick drawing of what I am talking about.
Last edited by WillyB; Nov 15, 2004 at 02:46 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 620
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From: USA
There's a number of ways you can do this. One I've seen is using channel iron, peice in front, middle and back that goes length ways (perpendicular tp the frame), correct width for the height you need and each spot in the frame. Then weld on some tabs that bolt into the side of the frame, or run bolts through the top of your frame.
Another way, is to run 2x4 or 6 square tubing parallel the length of your flatbed, then weld on some square tubing, or plate that extends down and bolts into the side your frame.
There's a number of ways to do it. I would avoid using wood, metal last's forever and won't loosen.
I can whip up a little drawing if you need.
Jordan
Edit: This is what I was describing in that second example;
Another way, is to run 2x4 or 6 square tubing parallel the length of your flatbed, then weld on some square tubing, or plate that extends down and bolts into the side your frame.
There's a number of ways to do it. I would avoid using wood, metal last's forever and won't loosen.
I can whip up a little drawing if you need.
Jordan
Edit: This is what I was describing in that second example;
Last edited by jstandle; Nov 15, 2004 at 05:07 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
The reason for using wood is to stop the rattles, and allow things to flex a bit. It also keeps from forming fatigue cracks in your truck frame. I removed the bed from a 1929 Ford model A Truck - maybe 75 years old - and the spacer was reusable.
I also had a factory New Holland stack retriver box on a International Truck where the box was bolted to steel mounts that were welded to the frame (something I avoid doing). In the ten years I owned the truck there was never a problem with this. Like Jordan says, there is lots of ways of doing this.
I also had a factory New Holland stack retriver box on a International Truck where the box was bolted to steel mounts that were welded to the frame (something I avoid doing). In the ten years I owned the truck there was never a problem with this. Like Jordan says, there is lots of ways of doing this.
