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I have read many times that the Ford box (Saginaw?) was phased in over the 67-69 years, replacing the Bendix. The Bendix was/is supposed to be a direct swap for the manual steering box, no alterations needed.
Randy, The answer should be yes. Have you mounted it to the frame with the 3 bolts? The later Saganaw gear that CD referred to will bolt in those holes as well.
disassembled the steering column. removed the steering sector shaft. took the shaft to a machinist and had a 1/2 inch removed from it and reassembled the steering column. jim
Did the machinist cut from the middle and reweld or from one of the ends which had enough spline area to cut 1/2" off? Also, did you need to change the left engine mount (or is that only for Saganaw units)?
DaggerNC, yes you will have to install the left engine perch off a truck that has a Saginaw box. The trucks with a Bendix box have the perch bolted to the rear holes on the cross member. There are three holes in the cross member, rear two Bendix, front two Saginaw box as the box is longer. You can use the Bendix box perch if you destroy it by cutting away at it. Don't do it. Carl...o&o>.......
I'll fess up that I have never worked with the Bendix box, but from all I have read no mods are required. I think John da picker installed one on his truck. The perches bolt in the same holes, only the top uses another one already in the chassis rail.
Buying a donor truck and keeping it until you have made all of the upgrades is the only way to go.
i had the machinist remove exactly 5/8 of an inch. he is a friend and he took it to work and cut the shaft into in the center. each end to be welded was beveled in a lathe, then the shaft was built up by welding to greater than the shaft diameter, then ground down in the lathe to the same diameter front to back. all that may not be necessary but i did not want the steering shaft to break while i was running 100mph.
Aside from direct bolt up of Bendix or Saginaw, in oem mounting holes being true, all non power steering Cols must be shortened for P/S. P/S uses a different column.
Common sense dictates bottom, or flange end, not Strg Wheel End be shortened. The mount point at lower dashboard edge will remain the same. Shortening Top, wheel end puts wheel closer to instruments but will not provide needed clearence where column meets the box at flange end. So shorten flange end, not top, wheel end, or midshaft. Or get a P/S column. . . . unless it has to be OEM "Correct".
FBp
BUT more importantly, IMHO, it's worth getting the Saginaw System & upgrading to it because it is a "slipper" type system which maintains road feel at higher speeds, while the Bendix system gets lighter and lighter the faster you go. Some refer to the feel of a Bendix full PSI system as the tip toe effect. Whatever they call it, it's the reason FoMoCo went to the Saginaw, slipper type system in 69. Much better safer handling & a lot lless adrennelin to deal with on the "boulevard" with the Saginaw System.
I recently "clearanced" the stock 65 F100 drivers side engine perch to use a later 75 model power steering box. I figured I had little to lose by just trying it to see how much had to be removed. I was surprise by the limited amount I had to cut on the stand itself. I took a few pictures if anyone wants some to show how much was cut. It looks like the mount is still strong enough to use, however, I have not installed the engine and driven it yet to be sure.