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Turbos suck

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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 03:50 PM
  #16  
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Its ok, I dont think the turbo would be off if I knew there were only two bolts.

I Havent made any progress at all. I am pretty busy. I go to a private school, so theres plenty of homework, and play soccer, and practice lasts until 6.30. I live 30 minutes away from school, so I usuall dont get home until 7.00-7.30. However, this next whole week is vacation for Thanksgiving. Plenty of time to wrok on the truck then, of course, around soccer practices.

edit: Im not complaining. I love soccer and I love my truck. My school is "ok-good" most of the time.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 04:48 PM
  #17  
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From: bryan/college station
my turbo air filter housing has "ford" stamped on it instead of ats. is that normal?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 10:28 AM
  #18  
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Just means yours is a "factory turbo".
 
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 05:50 PM
  #19  
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Maybe next week you'll get it removed.
I know at first I had trouble gettign my turbo removed. However there really are only a few places the entire thing is connected.

Exhaust pipes, oil tube, drain casing, snail.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 11:14 AM
  #20  
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To remove the turbo, can the oil drain tube castind stay connected to it? or does it have to be unbolted from the turbo?
To get the Exhaust fittings out that have been press fitted, do you just hit them witha hammer a little bit? Is WD-40 needed too?
Ill be working on it today...
I found out the heat shields had asbestos in them.

edit: email is rob allan (a) ewatson.us -------NO underscores or spaces
 

Last edited by RawPower; Nov 20, 2004 at 11:23 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 01:06 PM
  #21  
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PB Blaster seems to work better than WD 40 for removing stuck bolts and parts.
I removed mine leaving the drain casting in place on the turbo.
The exhaust pipes can be tapped with a mallet to help remove them.
I always had the best results getting the downpipe out by removing the tail pipe under the truck, then wiggling it around from down there.
Once it is out pop the snail off the intake, unbolt the oil supply tube, unbolt the drain casting, disconnect the wastegate tube from either end, tap wiggle and pry the turbo up off the exhaust inlet pipe.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 01:40 PM
  #22  
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Ok thanks Dave. Ill have to go get some PB Blaster though.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 02:57 PM
  #23  
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I second wiggling it from the bottom. Remove the y-casting from the right hand exhaust manifold and keep hitting it back a forth (spraying it every other time). Eventually it will surprise you and fall out of the turbo inlet casting.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 08:31 AM
  #24  
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I like www.photobucket.com for hosting pics, they are free and automatically provide you the html taged links, so all you have to do is upload your pic and then copy (select the html taged url and hit "controll" "C" then click in your post where you want the pic and hit "control V" and your pic will be there.

good luck
josh
 
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 10:28 AM
  #25  
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Ok thanks guys. Ill be working on it today.

Do any of yall find the "supercharge any car for 69.95" add funny? Anyone clicked on it? Its ridiculous.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 10:42 AM
  #26  
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think i might get one see if it helps my truck out. i wonder if it will still have the swirling effect after it goes thro the turbo. i meen a dr endorsed it so it has to work rite? good luck getting the turbo off.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 01:11 PM
  #27  
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I think the turbo will disrupt the motion and create its own air flow pattern. Unless it goes inside the snail which I doubt.

I got Liquid Wrench, the strongest variation of it, but it hasnt worked yet. I tried loosening the rust after spraying it by hitting it with a hammer. It didnt budge. So, for now its just soaking, its been about 30 minutes. Im about to go try it again and if it doesnt come off, then Ill hit it some more and spray it again... Repeat process thing...

I dont have a cutting torch, but would a plumbers torch work for this?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 01:13 PM
  #28  
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I have used a plumbers torch for loosening stuck parts. It seems to work fine. It does not get as hot as a cutting torch, but it should get hot enough to help.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 12:05 PM
  #29  
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Turbos off, finally. Thanks for all the help.
Now, another problem.

I was taking off the downpipe to replace it when I get the ATS kit, and one of the bolts (the hardest one to get to) stripped. It was the last one that I had to get off and it didnt budge. So now there is the bottom bolt that is sort of covered by the downpipe (enough so that you have to use a wrench, sockets dont fit) and its stripped.
How can I get it off?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 11:48 PM
  #30  
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Are you talking about the little 5/16 twelve point bolts? They are a biatch! Is it totally round yet? I've used a sharp chisel and hammer to pound it loose on the side of the bolt flange.
 
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