I am able to siphon coolant from the burp tank via the line comming off the radiator. The location of the line is about mid radiator when I begin to siphon; the flow will not start on it's own. I was thinking about rigging a temporary burp tank setup with some hose and a one liter pepsi bottle, but I'm not sure I'd be proving anything since I can't find anything wrong with the current burp tank setup.

Bob, isn't there an old saying "when it rains it pours"? Every single project of mine for the last two months has been a brutal battle over something that is really simple.

 

Here's an idea for you... what if you have a hole in the burp tank hose, this would allow air to get sucked into the radiator instead of coolant when it cools and since you never got all the air out there never an excess of coolant even when hot.

Also the hole would be far enough away from the tank so you could still get the coolant to siphon out of the burp tank.

 

Thanks for the idea Ken. There is now evidence to support your idea; since yesterday there have been five hot/cold cycles on that truck. Twice I've noted the coolant level in the burp tank drop but it's not consistent (hose clamps added, see next paragraph). I'm going to try a new hose this weekend; what have I got to loose and besides I can rule out a bad hose.

FWIW, I ran the truck down to a local radiator shop for an opinion. They looked at it for free and think I should replace the t-stat (although I'm not convinced) and add clamps to the burp tank line at both ends. It's never had them (I bought the truck new), and I called my friendly Ford parts department and confirmed that it never should have; there is no part number called out for clamps on that hose. The shop also checked the new radiator cap (pressure test) and confirmed it's ok.

For more visibility, I posted in the heating, a/c, etc forum. Along with a few more ideas, an FTE member suggested taking an old radiator cap and removing the lower seal then using it to verify coolant flow to/from the burp tank. Not a bad idea to confirm proper flow.

I'll update this post after replacing that hose and verifying via some duty cycles. Thanks again .

 

Well, it's fixed and proper operation has been verified over the last week+. What did it turn out to be? I added just one small hose clamp to the burp tank line at the radiator end. That's right, a 65 cent hose clamp from the hardware store. The big curve ball along the way became erratic operation. And to think, all I did other than change a radiator was to trim off about 3/8" of burp tank hose so that the hose would fit more securely on the barbed port on the radiator. BTW, by design Ford never installed clamps on the burp tank hose. I verified this with my friendly dealer parts department.

Ken, I tried a different hose but no improvement. It was Saturday; the only hose shop open didn't sell that thinwall stuff so I did what I didn't really want to do; see the junkyard.

Thanks to all of the good feedback on this one .

 

Bill, check this out, I actually added that same clamp to my own cooling system not too long ago. Back when I was mysteriously losing coolant, I took notice that there was no clamp at that location when I was scrutinizing my cooling system (testing the radiator cap in particular). It was more or less an afterthought kind of thing on my part, I just looked at what was there and felt it would be better off with a clamp. I had some of the little buggers lying around, so I threw one on there. Well, it seems my instincts were serving me well at the time, doesn't it?

Glad to hear things are back to good with your Ranger.

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed Bill !!!!!!!!!!!

 

Good find,fix & feedback Bill, makes me want to go get me a hose clamp installed just for grins!!!!

Well Ken nailed another one.

Don't remember running accross this one in all my years, but it makes sense though, shure glad to hear you've put this problem to bed.

Also makes one wonder how many of the oooling system noise problems might be due to the return hose sucking air unbeknown to most users!!!!

 

Great news Bill!! I am wondering if the overflow outlet on the new radiator is slightly smaller than the original? Since the problem started with the new radiator.

 

My theory is that when I cut 3/8" off the hose I got a better seal at the barb, but at the expense of the hose itself not sealing well around the non-barbed portion of the port. I suspect this was just enough to allow an air leak when it tried to lift coolant out of the burp tank during cooling. I never liked that no-clamp connection; I've got two other cars (GM) and I've noted GM always uses clamps. It provides a postive seal.

Not sure on the possibility of the port on the new radiator being smaller than the previous one. For all the measurements I took and compared, that was one that I didn't do. I was thinking maybe a problem with the neck in the radiator at the time. Since I'm the original owner, I can rule out any aftermarket radiators being installed. Modine should be OEM and that's why I like to stick with them. BTW, those radiators sure seem awfully small for the application although I've never overheated it.

 

I wasnt really sure of Billy's original symptoms...but parts of it sound similar to what i'm coming across with my '99 Ranger (3.0L, FFV, Auto, A/C) but ...some parts don't.

I can drive for periods of time ....then park it somewhere (shut-off) ....I can usually hear some gurgling at the Burp tank area. I can pop the hood and see that all my coolant has gone to the burp tank and hardly anything remains in the radiator. I can also Touch the can and turn the radiator cap without getting burned (noticed after a recent 95mile trip from Ga. to SC 12/27/04). When I did turn it (the cap) the fluid in the burp tank started bubbling as if some sort of pressure was being released. All the hoses (upper and lower rad. and to and from heater core ) are warm to hot. I put a new radiator cap on about 5-6mos ago (OEM)... a new water pump, upper and lower rad. hoses, thermostat all at about a month ago (all aftermarket).

This problem has been a plague for me in the past(3-6mos), but immediately after those part changes a month ago its gone away to only show back up this past week. The only item that I have not changed is the Heater core. which is next with getting the radiator Rodded (?!?!) if I cant find any other issue.

P.s: a fairly well known local ford dealer has performed a pressure test and suggested to "look" / change the water pump (that was prior to the new one being installed) ...the hose clamp thing will VERY Much be looked at also thanks to this thread being posted.

 

Well yesterday...(12/30/04) I had a new fan clutch put on to replace my wobbling one... It seemed to have also gotten rid of my annoying whistling noise. If anyone else wants a little more description for the symptoms I had...please reply back.