I have posted feed back before, but today I have a real problem. Just bought last month a 1996 PSD, Dually Crew ~200,000 miles. Ran good, except every once in a while it would cut out, then right back in. After it ran for an hour or so, and warmed up, it would be OK. Not today. I let it warm up for about 10 minutes or so, and then went out with it. I cut in and out frequently, then almost died with a check engine light coming on. Check Engine light went off, and drove better, but still kept cutting out. I know the oil was OK, no smoke or anything. At this point in time, I just wanted to get home. Didn't make it, truck died completely. Had to be towed home. Current symptoms that I know of (reading other posts to provide information and doing some tests)

Wait to start light does not come on at all when turn key on.
Truck turns over without any problems.
RPM meter does not move when spinning truck over. (It did before, I added this because some other posting suggested camps??? as a potential problem)
I checked the drain for water in the fuel, and there isin't any.
I have started some trouble shooting utilizing the Hayes Tech Book (Auto parts store didn't have the Chiltons manuals, will have to wait unitl Monday to pick one of them up). I can't find any reference to CPS, or CAMPS, what are we talking about here?

Under the cover over the fuel filter there is control unit of some type? It has four terminals with wires connected to them. The one always has power to it, I assume directly from the battery. The other large terminal I thought should have power when ignition switch is turned on. It does not appear like it does. There are two other small terminals. What do they do, and can anyone clarify how to test further. Any other suggestions?????

Thanks in advance...

 

A coworker was reading your post over my shoulder and he said that his did the same thing and it was the cam sensor.

 

definetly the cam sensor. if the tach doesnt work, the cam sensor isnt working . easy fix, runs about 90 bucks for the part. takes about 10-15 minutes to fix.

 

The camshaft position sensor (CPS or CAMP-depending on which you like) is probably your problem. If I remember correctly if you lay under the front of you truck and look up at the cranshaft pulley it is right there in the block. It has wiring running to it and looks kind of like a sending unit of some sort. You have to remove one bolt(maybe two) and it pulls out of its hole. Just pop the new one back in tighten the bolts and plug it up.
Note. Can be tricky to get the old sensor out of the block at first, use lots of penatrating oil and be cautious how you pull it, I broke mine off when I replaced it but it had been in there 10 years (rare)
One can be had from ford, althoug I found it cheaper from IH. (international) Somewhere around 80 bucks.

 

Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) part numbers
(Ford) F6TZ-12K073-A 94-96
(Ford) F7TZ-12K073-A 97+
(International) 1821720C99 (below engine S/N 375548)
(International) 1825899C93 (above engine S/N 375548)
I would suggest getting your CPS, CMP, Camp sensor at International. Mine cost me about $100 there and I have heard of people spending close to $180-$200 at Ford.

As far as the "Under the cover over the fuel filter there is control unit of some type" that sounds like the GPR (glow plug relay). If your tach is not moving while cranking I wouldn't worry about that until you change out your, as international calls it, Camp sensor.

Check out Steve Baz's website . He has a lot of real good information for you to keep/get your truck running.
Good luck
Mike

 

That observation could mean you have a more serious problem than a cam sensor.

The Wait To Start light should cycle on with the key for a minimum of 1 second as the PCM self tests. Tachometer output and glow plug relay control, which evidently aren't working either, are also PCM outputs.

It could be the cam sensor, or a wiring problem somewhere, but it kid of sounds like your PCM might have died.

Does the truck have a chip in it? A dead chip can make a PCM look bad, it could also kill the PCM.

 

Gee thanks Cookie. Just when I was starting to think I was smart you had to come along and shoot me down.

Mike

 

LMAO!! Sorry, that wasn't my intention. Just pointing out some other potential causes.

You are correct though, everybody that drives a 7.3 needs to pick up a spare cam sensor. It's not a matter of if it will fail, it's when.

 

Huh, yeah I have to agree with Cookie here, I completely missed the wait to start light part, you know the more opinions the better, its always funny when the experts come in and remind us why they are the experts!
Keep us posted!

 

So, I read the first couple of responses, and proceeded to remove the CPS, a little tricky getting it to come out, but I got it out. Called around, and yes, price at Ford is shall we say painfull. $187.00 + tax. Ouch, but, I am going to try the International place in the morning. My question is where do I find the serial number of the engine? If I can't, I am not going to wait, and Ford will make their money on me tomorrow.

I am concerned about other items, but I will update this forum after I put the CPS in. Doesn't make sense that the check engine light doesn't come on. So what is the PCM going to run, and where is it, and can I replace it. Don't see any reason why not.

 

What about the #22 fuse (I think that is the number, the one the fuel heater is on)? Could that cause the light not to come on if it is blown?

 

sorry to steal the thread, but my truck, every now and then, will cut out for a second and then start up again (sounds very very similar to what was happening to the maker of this thread), usually when i press the brake while on cruise control, but sometimes when im just driving also (not on cruise control)... any idea what that is? if its the same thing, id like to replace it before my truck dies like his did...

 

Mine was doing the same thing and my first thought was CPS, but nope. On mine it was my chip was loose and everytime I hit a bump it would wiggle and reset my pcm. Taped it in and no problems afterward (granted I did pull it in favor of a tuner). On the plus side though I now have a spare CPS in my toolbox.

Avking, for the serial number, mine is on a big sticker on the front of the motor. But that shouldn't be an issue for you as it pertains only to the change mid 97. You should be using International p/n 1821720C99. Good luck and have fun.
Mike

 

The PCM controls everything in your truck. It is located in the drivers side firewall. From under the hood you will see a wire harness with a 10mm bolt in the center. The easiest way, I have found, to remove the PCM is to loosen up your fender liner, remove the wiring harness and remove the 2 (I believe 10mm also) bolts that hold the bezel on. Pull the PCM straight out (into the engine bay) and thanks to the loose fender liner it should come straight out.

The only reason why not is expense (if I remember correctly it is close to a grand) and getting the new calibration code to work with any chip that you now have if, of course, you have a chip. Tuners shouldn't be a problem as long as you reprogram the truck back to stock before you do any pcm work.

Good luck
Mike

 

So, the CPS is replaced. International dealer, $100.00. Ford, $200.00. Chose International, and total of two hours driveing time. That is the good news. The bad news is no change. The Tach doesn't move when turning truck over, no Wait to start light, basically no change. As was posted earlier, seems we have several problems here, and the CPS was definately one of them. Now my question is, what next?