Por - 15 paint ?
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Hey, Flathead - If you are restoring your truck, then go with the original method, of course.
I play on the darkside (rodder) so very little of my 56 is stock.
I plan on using "Herculiner" brush/roll-on bed liner to coat the inside of fenders, bottom of running boards, bottom of bed wood, etc. Besides protecting against rust really well, it will knock down sound and absord the impact of road rocks without starring the paint on the outside, etc.
I play on the darkside (rodder) so very little of my 56 is stock.
I plan on using "Herculiner" brush/roll-on bed liner to coat the inside of fenders, bottom of running boards, bottom of bed wood, etc. Besides protecting against rust really well, it will knock down sound and absord the impact of road rocks without starring the paint on the outside, etc.
#4
Join Date: Jul 2001
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www.zerorust.com
Ask them who carries it in your area.
It dries to a satin gloss finish just like Ford made it.
Ask them who carries it in your area.
It dries to a satin gloss finish just like Ford made it.
#5
I'll chime in on the zerorust. It is the complete underside on my 55. FLows off a brush better than POR ( inside my doors ), cleans up easier, has a far longer pot life, and will not kill you should you choose to spray it. Looks great on all inner fender areas and has put up with real driving and pressure washes.
#6
I've had pretty good success with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator (available in a variety of colors). They claim that it is much better than POR-15 (however, I haven't tried POR-15) based on a research article they provide a link to... www.eastwood.com
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Id say do it right the first time. Pull the parts, have them sandblasted to remove any rust. This would be a good thing for your frame as well. I own a sandblasting business in MN and I do basic frames without running gear for around 130 bucks....175-200 for a full rolling chassis...some say its alot of money others think its a steal...all I have to say is it beats a wire wheel and standing there for hours with your DA. I would think your local blaster would through in your inner fenders for next to nothing. Having the parts blasted will open up a whole new world for you. Showing you the weak areas/or areas that need repair. A blasted surface is a perfect finish to apply primer and paint.
POR-15 is tough as nails and tends to flow decent if applied with a brush, but on larger surface areas such as inner fenders or a frame i would say buy a cheap spray gun and at least spray it on for a nice even coat. Id also look into Omni, a cheaper pant made by PPG. Any local paint supplier should point you in the right direction.
Doing it right the first time makes you happy the first time and lowers your chances of having to go back into an area youve already spent time on. Plus, if down the road youre looking to sell this project and move on at least you can say you blasted the parts and had them sprayed. Most people dont want to hear that you applied POR-15 on your chassis and inner fenderwells with a brush.
Sorry, got a little long, just my 2 cents.
Branden
POR-15 is tough as nails and tends to flow decent if applied with a brush, but on larger surface areas such as inner fenders or a frame i would say buy a cheap spray gun and at least spray it on for a nice even coat. Id also look into Omni, a cheaper pant made by PPG. Any local paint supplier should point you in the right direction.
Doing it right the first time makes you happy the first time and lowers your chances of having to go back into an area youve already spent time on. Plus, if down the road youre looking to sell this project and move on at least you can say you blasted the parts and had them sprayed. Most people dont want to hear that you applied POR-15 on your chassis and inner fenderwells with a brush.
Sorry, got a little long, just my 2 cents.
Branden
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John - NNY
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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08-18-2008 10:05 AM