There is definitely a time and a place for massive HP and TQ numbers, but only when you're on the street, or have enough footing and traction to make 'em count. I saw a Pearl colored '68 F-100 shortbed on the freeway the other day, and it made my heart skip a beat. It wasn't that Cadillac Pearl either, it was so pearl that it looked pearl until the sunlight hit it and refracted it into reds and blues. It had a For Sale sign in the window, and if it wasn't on I-75 with about a thousand cars all around me, I'd have chased him down and wrote a check. Shortbed, standard cab, 4x2 pickups with normal to very slightly lowered stance are the trucks that you can put your masterpiece engine into. Then you can be driving along at 45 MPH, get super-****ed and stand on the pedal and scare yourself with its beastliness. Nevermind me, I'm daydreaming.

 

later

 

Summit Racing and Jeg's both carry converters for less than $150. Either the house brand, TCI, or B&M all make a product in that price range. Purchase all products from Jeg's whenever possible, they donate much of their profit to cancer research. Plus, the brothers Coughlin are the two nicest guys on the NHRA circuit.

I know perfectly well that a head and cam swap will improve low end torque, but you could have the same torque to use while crawling with a higher stalling converter with no other mods and save yourself over $1,000.00, even if you had it installed professionally. You remember that 5.0 that i built? I now have a 300 I-6 in a '95 that my 5.0 would call daddy anywhere else but the street. The reason is that the freaking 300 I-6 makes 300 ft*lbs nearly at idle (and it's SWB v. LWB, and it's got a 3.0+ v. 2.75, and I've got a 4R70W behind the I-6 v. a C4). The 5.0 made nearly 400 ft*lbs peak TQ, which was totally badass when I'm flying down the freeway, but it doesn't help when crawling through mud at 1,200 RPM. What would help more than all is a locker differential, and Edelbrock shocks.

I propose a contest: we'll have to air it on TLC's "Junkyard Wars" show, where me and JWTaylor are each given an identical 1987 F-150. We each have a Jeg's gift card worth $2,000.00, and a full set of tools. We equip our vehicles according to our recommendations, and then we have an off-road time trial race. Winner gets to keep the truck, and a $1,000,000.00 prize. I don't know's furnishing the prize, but it doesn't really matter.

 

I have a 87 351w and a 95 300 myself, I know exactly what your saying.


I agree totally with what your saying...we just have different views on what the original user is looking for...know what I mean?

 

You're very correct about that, we're both offering different sets of plans for the same vehicle. You just have to decide if you want to go the street rod route, or the off-road route. The sooner you make the decision, the more wisely your money will be spent. The good thing about Ford is that you have the best truck for whatever you choose to make out of it.

 

hey all
I have thought about most of what was said. The head swap will wait, would be very nice but money is issue right now. Plus I am not ready to build a new engine yet. I do have plans for a rebuild but this runs damn good for what it is. Right now is what I am lookin for is just a little more torque. I currently have a holley street avenger 670 rejetted(wish I bought truck avenger instead), edlebrock intake performer (needs dual plain imo), headers, basicly straight pipe to cherry bomb. gears are 4.10 w/locker in rear. got rid of all the stock ignition change to a msd 6al box, billet distributor and a high vibration coil. C6 mated borge warner 1345. 8.8 rear end, dana 44 ttb(axles stock for the time being)
The reason for cam swap is I am looking for more torque with out getting to extreme. Stall converter and extra clutch packs can wait. Not so much hp but they kinda go hand in hand imo. I had 31's on the truck when I first got it and it didn't think 2 about breaking the tires loose from a dead stop. now I have 32's won't break lose but still runs like hell. Last weekend we went for some trail rides. In high gear is the only noticable difference. but in low it will still pull a house if I can hook up. Since I've moved to this area they mostly have mud. Last weekend is the first time the truck has seen 5g off raod, even at the mud bogs it never reached over 4500. I basicly love it all but mud is mostly what I do with the seldom hill climbs and what ever I can get into. But with all that said I just want a little more for now until I can afford the machine work and parts to build a roller engine. Labor is my time. Possibly convert to FI w/ turbo since they don't allow blowers here, thats another topic. In theory what I have planned should work but in reality is whole different ball game.
It's just nice to have other opinions involved with decions as there is always something I forget about or over look. I hate buying something then realize it's not what I wanted. Other opinions seem to help make a better desicion on what I am actually lookin for, pro's and con's so to speak. I don't know everything.

 

Sounds like a plan.

Your best bet is to call comp cams, everyone that uses one of the XE cams claims it makes all kinds of low end grunt, if you keep it conservative. The XE268H-10 should give you around 15 hg vacuum and a performance oriented idle, at a stop it may want to lunge with you, so a converter would be nice. I spoke with another fella thats running the XE262H-10 in a 351w 4X4 and he couldn't be happier, some idle sound but don't expect a funny car idle...haha. I will keep my eye out for your post, that includes your thoughts on the cam swap....good luck

 

not looking to go that far as of yet anyway. That would be sweet though I don't think there would be many mud holes I couldn't skim accross. A launch at 4-5g with 44's would probaly be one hell of a ride.
Seriously though that cam that was recommended sounds like what I am lookin for. When I get it and install it I will let you guys know the results.
Thanks for all the input. I think I'll be very happy with the choice.

 

I will throw this out there and you do with it what you like.

If emissions isn't a concern and/ or your emissions equipment/ catalytic converter are gone, you may wanna re arrange your timing and how its set up.

I did some reading and eventually went to full vacuum to the vacuum advance at idle, as you know, stock its timed. I would not do this if you have emissions or emissions equipment installed.

This made a dramatic difference in how my truck accelerates off idle and it improved the feel of cruising. You will get the comment that too much timing at idle makes starting difficult, that wasn't the case for myself, it actually improved.

Just a thought

 

I wonder now you brought that up. I have a msd distributor that has both vacum and centrifical advance. I don't remember how many degrees each one offers but both together total maximum of 30. I have timing set right now to run 87octane. If I set timing to were it starts to ping at 3500 and switch to 93 octane, I notice a differnece in acceleration. I may be able to use this to my advantage.

"You will get the comment that too much timing at idle makes starting difficult, that wasn't the case for myself, it actually improved. " In theory it should but there are some things that theory just can't explain. If it works and your happy with it then run with it and the hell with theory its all about reality.