rear differential leak
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rear differential leak
I have a rear differential leak. The guy at the oil change place said it was the front output seal. I looked underneath and there's a leak where the drive shaft goes into the differential. There's also oil that's been slung all over the underside of the truck. Does this sound like the culprit?
If so, how hard is it to replace this seal?
'91 Ranger, 2.3L, 2WD, 165k
If so, how hard is it to replace this seal?
'91 Ranger, 2.3L, 2WD, 165k
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,404
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
I'm not too familiar with that rear end, but the process should be similat to the older 9" (probably most rears).
Disconnect the drive shaft.
Mark the yoke nut and the yoke so you can put it back where it was.
Remove the nut and the yoke.
Pull the old seal out.
Put the new seal in.
Reassemble and either torque the nut to specs or line up the marks you made.
When you have the yoke off, check the surface where the seal rides. A lot of times the spring that holds the seal to the yoke will wear through the seal and carve a groove in the yoke. If that's the case, replace thet yoke or it'll still leak.
Hope this helps.
Kevin K.
Disconnect the drive shaft.
Mark the yoke nut and the yoke so you can put it back where it was.
Remove the nut and the yoke.
Pull the old seal out.
Put the new seal in.
Reassemble and either torque the nut to specs or line up the marks you made.
When you have the yoke off, check the surface where the seal rides. A lot of times the spring that holds the seal to the yoke will wear through the seal and carve a groove in the yoke. If that's the case, replace thet yoke or it'll still leak.
Hope this helps.
Kevin K.
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But doesn't this require special tools? Chilton's says I need an 'Impact Slide Hammer Tool' to remove the seal and an 'Output Shaft Seal Replacer & Driver Handle' to replace it.
I feel pretty confident I can disconnect the shaft from the differential and get to the seal, but I don't want to get into the job and find out I need these special tools. How much would the necessary tools cost? I don't see myself going into the rear end business, so if the cost gets too high, I'll probably get it done in a shop. What do you think is a reasonable price to pay to have this seal replaced?
I feel pretty confident I can disconnect the shaft from the differential and get to the seal, but I don't want to get into the job and find out I need these special tools. How much would the necessary tools cost? I don't see myself going into the rear end business, so if the cost gets too high, I'll probably get it done in a shop. What do you think is a reasonable price to pay to have this seal replaced?
Last edited by bojette; Nov 19, 2004 at 04:37 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
I paid $50 to get mine done.
There are two ways to do most jobs. The right way, with all the specialty tools that mechanics pay thousands for to do every job, and the way the rest of us do it that works just as well if you use your head. It might take a little longer, though, and you might have to be a little more careful.
Most of the time, for example, you can use a hammer to install a seal, as long as you're careful to drive it in straight.
As far as the pinion seal goes, do a search, it's been covered many times. I seem to recall needing a large torque wrench for the pinion nut.
There are two ways to do most jobs. The right way, with all the specialty tools that mechanics pay thousands for to do every job, and the way the rest of us do it that works just as well if you use your head. It might take a little longer, though, and you might have to be a little more careful.
Most of the time, for example, you can use a hammer to install a seal, as long as you're careful to drive it in straight.
As far as the pinion seal goes, do a search, it's been covered many times. I seem to recall needing a large torque wrench for the pinion nut.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 510
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From: Charlotte
Right on Andym. I just did this job on a 9 inch. You need an impact wrench to remove the pinion nut (making sure to mark the position of the nut to the yoke). Remove the yoke and seal. Use a soft hammer to tap the new seal in place, then put on the yoke and torque down the nut. The torque setting should be 175 lb. ft.
