93 ranger 3.0 ran hot - knocks
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From: fl
93 ranger 3.0 ran hot - knocks
I just acquired a 93 ranger with 3.0 vulcan 85000 mi.
A freeze plug failed on previous owner and engine ran hot and started knocking so he shut it down.
Purchased from an Uncle who was going to fix it, he said all he was going to do was put rod bearings in it and go.
Is that all I should do or should I get a bottom-end kit and put in new main and rod bearings and an oil pump?
Only paid $300 for the truck but, I would like to fix it right the first time. Is there anything else I should replace?
thanx
A freeze plug failed on previous owner and engine ran hot and started knocking so he shut it down.
Purchased from an Uncle who was going to fix it, he said all he was going to do was put rod bearings in it and go.
Is that all I should do or should I get a bottom-end kit and put in new main and rod bearings and an oil pump?
Only paid $300 for the truck but, I would like to fix it right the first time. Is there anything else I should replace?
thanx
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
The problem with a spun bearing is that you also have to worry about the crank journal being scored. Obviously you won't know for sure until you take things apart and check things very carefully. And as I'm sure you already know, even a single, minute stratch on a crank journal means the job just got a whole lot bigger than simply replacing the bearings. That's why I think a crank kit w/matched rod and main bearings might be your best repair option. In any case, it would seem that it (the condition of the crank) is one more thing that is "iffy" along with the heads and/or headgaskets.
Keeping the above in mind, as I mentioned in my other post, it's my opinion that you should also consider dropping in another vulcan (from a boneyard).
Keeping the above in mind, as I mentioned in my other post, it's my opinion that you should also consider dropping in another vulcan (from a boneyard).
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From: Central Jersey
I agree with Rockledge. Unless you are able, and ready to rip down a motor, you should short block it. You will need specialty tools, and equipment. Almost all can be rented at a locoal center, but the cost adds up. There are many retailers of rebuilt motors, all with guarantees. I have 3 within a 20 mile radius.
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From: fl
thank you for the replys. 
I spun a bearing ( rod ) on an old chevy 350 I had. A guy fixed it by dropping the pan and putting in a new bearing, ran like a top.
You don't think I could do the same with this 3.0 ? Think I should give it a try?
After all it will be the cheapest and it's my time. And if it doesn't turn out well I can get a replacement motor.
Let me clarify this: When the term "shortblock it " is used , are you meaning to get a remanufactured shortblock and use it with my origional heads to fix my problem?
How much difficulty would that involve?JECP said I would need specialty tools.
Would it be easier like Rocklege said, and just get a complete low milage engine from a boneyard?
I really appreciate all the input and advice from you all
thanx
I spun a bearing ( rod ) on an old chevy 350 I had. A guy fixed it by dropping the pan and putting in a new bearing, ran like a top.
You don't think I could do the same with this 3.0 ? Think I should give it a try?
After all it will be the cheapest and it's my time. And if it doesn't turn out well I can get a replacement motor.
Let me clarify this: When the term "shortblock it " is used , are you meaning to get a remanufactured shortblock and use it with my origional heads to fix my problem?
How much difficulty would that involve?JECP said I would need specialty tools.
Would it be easier like Rocklege said, and just get a complete low milage engine from a boneyard?
I really appreciate all the input and advice from you all
thanx
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