Head light wiring upgrade
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2002
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From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
Head light wiring upgrade
I changed the head light wiring from the OEM to direct through relays. It was easy and it produced about a 20 -25% light out put increase as measured with a light meter!
It was worth the $30.00 in wiring!
It was worth the $30.00 in wiring!
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Right Next to U
Hope you don't over watt your lamps, unless you have upgraded the alt and the voltage regulator, this will do it in, its not fun going down the road with no lights and alt light on red/discharging....not going to mention about blown lights going poof in the dark....
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: chino valley az
huh? if the bulbs are 55 watt than in theory they draw 3.985507.. at 13.8 volts each. so as i have figured the whole lighting on my dually takes 14 or so amps. i did the same ting with the relays. was a whole lot brighter, and whem checked i was pulling 12.5 amps. this is with my three lights on the back, as well as the two side marker lights. this ws well within my output of my alt normal charge state. which on the 55 amp alt is 27.5 amps. with everything going including the high beams and heater, i was drawing a shade over 22 amps.
Kurt
Kurt
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
I think that when i pull my flare in the shop to do the rear end/shifter/electric fans upgrades, i will attempt this as my headlights (and taillights) are lack luster. Would one of you be able give a quick overview of how you went about doing this, as i'm not to familar with the head light wiring. It will be greatly appreciated.
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
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From: chino valley az
i had a set of the replacement h4 set up. i was really unimpressed with it. infact i took it out and went with the standard bulbs. going to list them on ebay this week, and see if i can get some of my money back. i installed the relays next to the battery, and ran the original headlamp wire to the switch end of the relay. ran 10 gauge from the battery to the 12v constant terminal. from the relay i ran the two wires one to each headlight. and a ground wire from the relay to the battery. i did the same for the highbeams. as for the headlamp plugs, they were originally 18 gauge (as per the factory manual). i removed the pins, and installed new ones to hold the 14 gauge wire i ran from them to the relay. also, think about changing your ground wire position on the radiator cowl. this was a common problem with the fords dim lights. 2 30 amp relays.. 15.00 (radio shack) 6 pins for the headlamp socket 6.00 (napa) wire, shrink tube, and connectors 8.00 (napa). cost of having lights i can see with now. well you know..
Kurt
Kurt
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
The H4 reglectos tend to be a bit of a crap shoot. Most of the ones running n e-bay don't offer a better beam pattern than a stock sealed beam because they are DOT approved, and the diamand cut ones just don't work worth a crap.
I have Bosch european spec reflectors in my 86.
On the right is the bosch reflector with a 55/60W bulb, on the left is a halogen sealed beam, both with relays and 10 guage wire, both on low beam.
http://www.bigblocksix.com//f100swb/...ysdrivers2.jpg
And, this is with the stock wiring hooked up on the drivers side:
http://www.bigblocksix.com//f100swb/...ckdrivers2.jpg
I have since upgraded to 50/100W bulbs, it's REALLY nice to be able to actually see at night without a bunch of extra lighting.
I have Bosch european spec reflectors in my 86.
On the right is the bosch reflector with a 55/60W bulb, on the left is a halogen sealed beam, both with relays and 10 guage wire, both on low beam.
http://www.bigblocksix.com//f100swb/...ysdrivers2.jpg
And, this is with the stock wiring hooked up on the drivers side:
http://www.bigblocksix.com//f100swb/...ckdrivers2.jpg
I have since upgraded to 50/100W bulbs, it's REALLY nice to be able to actually see at night without a bunch of extra lighting.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: chino valley az
i had the bosch lights. my comment was i am going to be selling them on ebay. i didn't get a good layout on the light. i was down low, and in the center. i had to adjust my lights way up to get them to point down the road. and then i couldn't see on either side. i missed the the old sylvania, and went back. to many elk on the road around me to not beable to see. deer will mess up your truck, but an elk will kill you..
Kurt
Kurt
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I might add, grounding your lights back to the alternator casing will make for a better ground than grounding to the body. This is a how a fiberglass bodied vehical gets wired, as there's really no place other than the frame, to gound things too. Grounding directly to your power source takes the out the crapshoot of wiring problems by eliminating the possibility of being grounded to to much rusty metal. FYI, wiring the lights this way will actually reduce the draw on your alternator, rather than increase it. It's a more efficient, and direct path for the voltage to travel, and therefore makes the alternator's work easier.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: East Coast
I don't really like the lights that take the new bulbs. I never used them, but you don't change the lense with the bulb, so they will eventually yellow and fade like new cars. That's the beauty of the sealed beam, you change the whole thing, reflector and all. Napa has these xenon sealed beams called brite lites, and they are really nice for the price. Even with stock halogens my 86 has better than average headlites and high beams, I think it is all in the grounds, and those relays would probably make more of a difference than anything else.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: chino valley az
yeah, my lights were only getting around 12.8v it the connector. a big difference from the 13.8-14.2 they are getting now. i was told the hella-bosch lights were great, and was willing to give it a try. i mean the fog lights from bosch i have are GREAT! but like all good things, you must stop at some point. as long as you have a clean rust-paint free surface on your grounds, they all work about the same. but to the back of the alt, is the best place. less likely hood of paint, but besure the surface is flat, and free of corrosion you in the salt belt..
Kurt
Kurt
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 49
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From: Kingston ontario canada
Well Guys heres the scoop .If you checked the voltage at the original headlights its probably around 11 volts 3 lost in the wiring .If you place the relays as close to the bulbs as feasable and turn them on threw the relays you will have 12 volts at the light .And yes i agree with RR4E That the next most important thing than juice is GROUND ground is everything. Think of it this way ,wiring as a water pipe ,a given the bigger the pipe the more water. ?The bigger the wire the more electricity with less lose. Also Going or coming for every action theres an appposing reaction GROUND is beautiful Two Grounds is Better Three is excelent As for lights.Different diffusions for different purposes I have three different kinds of lights on my 1981 Ford stepside Regular lights Flamethrower lights and wide angle lights. Like light up my life . what a difference and relays on all six lights.all controlled from different switches.